Maybe a bit of clarification is required here as it's a commo issue. AC & DC have different rules and differing terms which do not help the average person.
AC: Black & Red lines are HOT. White is Neutral (not ground). Exposed Copper / Green Wire is ground.
DC: Black is Negative. Red or other colour is Positive. There is no "ground" as such on the power side. DC Gear get's grounded in a fixed / shore based installation and that means grounding the Hardware. IN a vehicle the chassis is typically used as negative / ground but more often for safety reasons now Negative is run as an extra wire in vehicle circuits. Getting even more complex with electrified vehicles due to the computers.
AC must be grounded following
Electrical Codes relative to your jurisdiction (the rules do vary a bit, make no assumptions). Grounding Plates, Rods are commonly used for such, in some cases it is allowed to use metal water pipes coming into a home (due to extensive use of PEX and others, most are eliminating this option). Main electrical panel is grounded and all plugs, switches, sub-panels etc are all bonded together with the bare copper / green wire and share the one common ground circuit for the structure. Think of it like a Daisy Chain, all linked together. Some codes allow for multiple grounding points (rods, plates etc) while others do not,
your codes are your guide. (note, if you want insurance coverage, follow codes and get inspected as required)
Solar Panels (frames & rails) need to be grounded separately as their grounding is to protect from lightning etc. This is a separate grounding aside from the actual "electrical system" as such. There are likely various code requirements relative to your region, so again verify what these are and follow codes. It's not just for insurance purposes, these codes are designed to keep person & property safe and sound.
The "Bonding Thing" on inverters. Many are built in a manner that they can be used in a fixed installation such as a house or within a vehicle. If it is used in a house, the chassis' / housings of the equipment has to be bonded to ground using a bonding connector usually provided in the "kit". There may be an additional Lug for Earth Ground, depends on manufacturer. If in a vehicle then ground is to the chassis, which could also be negative and could cross so the equipment is separated (bonding wire not connected between the device chassis and power line). Refer to the Inverter Manuals & Docs in regards to this, the methods vary and there is no single simple answer. IF you do setup and things are running,
always use an AC Plug Tester like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Outlet+Tester,+Receptacle+Tester+for+GFCI&qid=1573991665&sr=8-6 to ensure your circuits are properly done, IF the bonding is not correct, it will generate a fault like an open circuit. Do that before connecting anything to your AC ! NB: That is a North American Model shown, similar are available for other electrical systems.
GFCI & Arc Fault are 2 different beasts and is understandable that there is some confusion there.