Recent content by AnarchyJet

Never seen the diagonal bus bars before. What is the reason to do that instead of rotating ever other cell 180*.

Seems you need 1 system to run the 120vac loads of your office, kitchen and A/C. Then another to run the 12vdc of a live aboard boat. You didn't mention anything about refrigerator/freezer, electric head, water pump and ect. All usually are 12vdc and run off the house bank. Then there is...

If you can edit your picture and give each panel a number, it would be much easier to give suggests. ie Solar 1 = (1||2) - (3||4) Solar 2 = (5||7) - (6||8)

Sounds like a loose or high resistance connection in the battery or wiring. I've seen cables on boats rot on the inside and look perfectly fine on the out side. Check every connection

Is the genset 120 or 240 volts? Are there any DC loads or is everything AC? What you want could easily be $30-$40k installed, is that within the budget?

The cost of used equipment is not eligible for the tax break. Your use case probably will never make financial sense compared to a generator. Who cares do it anyway...yeah solar!

Slot EATON load center for Generator input bypass with interlock Can you share the exact parts used and how this is wired? I am having trouble visualizing it.

I'm guessing if you had 2 batts in parallel with 200A BMS, and only used either the windlass or winch it would be ok. Does each outboard have a dedicated FLA starting battery? You will need a DC-DC charger from each alternator to the LFP to limit current if you want that as a charging method...

If I understand correctly, your windlass runs off the house bank. Which is currently agm and supplied by a 110 amp breaker. How many amps is your house bank pulling when the windlass isn't running? I would suggest a dedicated agm bat for the windlass, fed by a small DC-DC charger. Then size...

Crude mockup of what I meant. Blue box on the left would be an added 1-2 switch to the supply of the 12 v panel. Old 1-2-both switch is not really needed how it is set up, but if it is already there just leave it. This would be the safe way to run the panel off the agm bank if the lfp bank...

First thing that jumped out at me was a 50a CB on a 10 awg wire feed by a 15a SCC. It is not needed, but if you really want protection on that put the proper size for the wire. Second, I wouldn't risk the chance that the two banks get paralleled. Why not put the feed for the 12v panel on a 1-2...

Depending how everything fits together running the panels as 2 separate strings of 2S to 2 SCC might be easier. Dual 50amp can be wired with 6 awg vs the 2 awg needed for a single 100a

I'm confused, if your primary loads are max 120 amp 12v and will rarely use a 2000w inverter, what are the high amps that you are afraid of?

If you need 2000w of inverter I would stay 12v. A Victron Multiplus 3000va would handle shore power in, battery charging and inverting in one package. A DC-DC from the van battery to house bank is much more efficient than trying to invert 12v to run a 48 volt charger. Is the plan to keep the...

If you just want to run the lift. A 4000 watt low frequency inverter probably at 24vdc input. 100ah of lead acid batteries at 24vdc and 2x 100watt solar panels in series with a 10amp charge controller. Pwm or mppt doesnt matter. If you want to power more like dock lights, keep a electric...