Recent content by conquistador

Don't confuse the bypass diodes of the panels with the reverse blocking diodes in the combiner box. Ideal diodes for more than 60 to 100V are difficult to find. The high voltage Mosfet's internal resistance would make them as inefficient as silicon diodes.

For larger LiFePo4 batteries, Aliexpress is just not the right place. The small 5Ah round cells might be ok if you are lucky. Good for @augiedoggy that you got decent cells, but many others have been scammed. For 600$ the risk is just too high, and in the end you still end up buying from Docan...

They have high internal resistance and are garbage. My ones even started to leak. Search for Liitokala here in the forum, there are a few posts from myself and other victims of their G-grade cells. Now write them off and buy quality from the recommended sellers.

This seems the most likely. A failed mosfet or IGBT in the bridge could cause this. But the local electrician will have issues to figure this out. There was no report of what voltage has been measured in the dark on the SPD.

Very good ideas, I'm thinking of adding a 2-3 s wait time after turning the inverter on, and then connecting the compressor motor so that the inverter does not need to start with a near short circuit on the output.

Just one more little thing: So you took out the thermostat out of the 230V circuit completely, and you use it only to pull INT0 of the attiny to GND to wake up from deep sleep . Then from the schematic, you must have put L of the power directly to the compressor?

Thank you anyway, this was interesting. I've never seen a fridge thermostat too closely, but your procedure looks good. My pure sine wave inverter 12V 1000W beeps for overload at every fridge start, but then runs fine. This inverter might be at the lower limit for running a fridge. I've measured...

Thank you so much for sharing your experience with the SPD that burned. Here is another video which shows a similar device. I wonder if there are any good ones out there, or only this crap which does not disconnect. With this behavior, one can skip these SPD completely.

Fully agree. Whoever has seen CO2 on a hot fire, will discard this option completely, it would just be a joke on a burning battery. I have never seen a burning LiFePo4 myself, but there are some scary pix here in the forum, and they are certainly not fakes.

As Mattb4 spotted, you are at 10.9V, completely and utterly discharged. This battery needs to be disconnected immediately from anything, and be recharged. If you have nothing else, you can hook up a 12V panel directly during day time for at least 1h in sunshine. This will restore the voltage and...

I tried this by sanding the spot first and putting the red paint as you can see, but it was hopeless, as the corrosion came from inside the cell to outside. There must have been a micro crack where the electrolyte came out.

I like the tidiness of your balance wires. Unlike other battery builds here where the wires fly all over the place.

But your reasoning is ok. That's why we now see 48V aircon and fridges appearing. 12V is only good for lights, because you do not want to handle currents above 50A.

The issue is that most household appliances are AC, but there are no AC batteries. DC has disadvantages such as arcing at high voltages and you cannot transform it easily. This is why 120 years ago, most of the world adopted AC.

Could you explain how you go through the load that quickly? In your picture, you seem to take 30ms?