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Yeah definitely on, not eco mode. The transition from inverter to shore power (after the 20 seconds delay for generator warmup) makes the light pulse but it remains illuminated. When I flip the breaker off at the podium to kill shore power it does transfer back to inverter, but the light does...

I think that's just for allowing the generator time to warm up, which i'm ok with. the inverter stays powered the whole time - that shore power (or generator) transition is seamless with the light bulb test, it just takes 15-20 seconds to do it.. but inverter carries the load in the mean time...

Is the culprit the switching speed of the transfer switch? Or the phoenix not picking up the load quick enough? In my observation with a light plugged in to one of the gfci outlets, inverter to shore power is imperceivable. Switching off shore power produces a blink. I'm wondering why Will...

Well I sure hosed myself on this install then :LOL: I already buttoned up the underbelly, and the section I removed was still a PITA to do (and work under) for battery relocate. I'd have to drop the entire thing to run from under the bed at the front of the camper all the way to the rear where...

Maybe I just don't know how these things work, I freakin' hate AC. But anyway I just used the inverter prep wire on my camper (a big loop of wire that powers some of the GFCI outlets in the camper, I just want my tv and starlink to stay on) and identified the hot end of the loop. I wired that...

Dammit. I think I'm going to do this but not sure if I want to go over the AC unit. Rather build as low profile as possible to clear the obstacles and still allow the bathroom fan to lift up a couple inches. I'm stubborn and don't want to scrap my new 2 x 200w panels so this may be the...

Yeah, my ogre ass needs the skylight to fit my head in. Second entry gland is now possible, I was measuring the cupboards and crap above the bed (front of trailer) and noticed you can see inside the cabinet the transition from the curved nose cone to the roof, and there's definitely 6" of roof...

oh yeah :LOL:

Right, I always ran my main diy build to 13.8, but I had a bluetooth BMS on that so I wasn't operating blind, and I could customize the voltage that balancing began. I don't have that with the Chins batteries. With the Chins having charge specs of 14.2 - 14.6, it's likely that balancing occurs...

Yeah, I get that would be detrimental to a series system since components would cease to work, but having 300ah out of a 560ah bank would also be a major drag and not knowing what I can even set my mppt charging voltage to without knowing if its tripping one battery is double drag Max I've seen...

So I bought two 280ah Chins dumb batteries. That was a weird decision for me to make, both buying an off the shelf solution and skipping out on the ability to view any BMS data - but they were on sale :cautious: A series of mistakes followed, or at least things I would have done differently...

Trying to maintain a single solar entry point on the roof so that has me stuck with finding panels that play well together. There are full height cabinets at the front of the camper which would be awesome for a second (and very short) solar run. Unfortunately those cabinets are beneath the...

I did some measuring today, not enough room to run 3 panels on the right side. Two panels end to end after the goofy antenna dome would be too long to avoid the tank vent, which is basically the same width to the edge as a panel. I think my two additional 200w panels will max out the space...

Glad to hear, and my thinking too. Don't really see a point in introducing shading inevitability when I'm not trying to max out the roof.