Recent content by thegoogler

Yeah that converter is what I have just a 20A version. And the cable is what I was thinking about using (or Anderson PP wires). So really just confirming if I did that I wouldn’t F something up since the converter would output 24V while the panel was likely a bit higher… and also that the...

I think it’ll work but confirmation (or calling me nuts) is why I’m here ;-) If I put a PWM controller between the solar panel and the 12v side then the converter should be ok since it wouldn’t see anything higher than the 14.5V coming from the alternator anyway. But I’ll double check to make...

At the moment I’m thinking about the PWM controller sitting behind the 12-24 converter. So from the Bluetti perspective it’s all 24V power. If all I have is solar then it’s 100W max regardless. If I’m driving in a tunnel then I only have 200W of alternator. If the engine is running then...

Ok so I guess my current question is: Are there any concerns with running the solar panel through a $20 PWM 12V solar controller and connecting it into the 12V side of the 12-to-24V DC-DC converter, keeping in mind that: 1. 12V side is isolated from the primary battery when the vehicle is off...

Yeah my assumption on the input was 24V is fine and won’t feed back but I get your point there. Ok so Im thinking one feasible option might be to get a cheap PWM solar controller, run the panel into the controller, and put the controller on the 12V side of the converter into the fuse box. It...

One open question for me is “can I combine different voltages in any of these scenarios, or do the voltages all have to be identical?” Another question is “if I use the 12-to-24 converter to step up the alternator voltage and I also connect the solar panel on the 24V side (so that both are...

Yes the Bluetti only has one input port. That port can accept anywhere from 12-28V. It will limit charging draw to 8A or 200W, whatever is less. I would like to charge from the alternator and from solar, depending on the situation. I don’t want to just attach a 20V solar panel to the vehicle...

I purchased a Bluetti EB70S. Not my ideal power station but I couldn't find anything LFP that had 8A+ DC output options without needing to use the stupid cigarette lighter plug. The EB70S can take 8A @ 12-28V input to recharge. I'm running a 12V fridge and would like to maximize charging. I...

In fairness about 1200w would be ideal. I'd really like to have the inverter shut down rather than blow my 120A battery fuse or my BMS rated at 120A continuous load because I ran too close to the limit. Peak draw is obviously a different beast.

Awesome, thank you

I have a self-built Lithium (LFP) battery in my camper with a JBD/Xiaoxang/overkill BMS that is rated at 120A continuous discharge (and fused as such). The LFP cells could handle 140A continuous/280A peak discharge, but the BMS cannot. What's the largest inverter I can safely run? My gut...

Mine says firmware version 20. It also says manufactured 4/26/21 but I find that hard to believe as I bought it used off ebay on 5/17/21.

The dimensions are in the last chart for a few of the battery types so for those examples you could calculate it based on volume Hadn't noticed the translation but that is hilarious

CATL recommends keeping my battery in the 10-90% SoC range. I think most of the LiFePO4 batteries are similar. However below is my actual battery voltage during a discharge with a <0.01C load applied (which is super low, I know). I started the discharge 24 hours after charging, so the battery...

It's a lot harder in my experience (practically speaking) to prevent charging to 100% than it is to prevent discharging to 0%. For the latter you can always just set your BMS cut-off higher. For the former though using voltage is a poor way to judge SoC, it's difficult to find a charging...