Speaking for a friend only , he found a real deal on a bunch of real Russian block 30 rd mags. ..
1Z-L is excellent and mandatory for metal on metal (bronze, copper or brass) low rotational speed, high current rotary grounds of that brand that specifies its use. 1Z-L is made of 30% graphite powder and the balance mineral oil (probably paraffin oil-heavy). I wouldn’t use it other types of slip rings unless the manufacturer recommends it. Graphite is an excellent lubricant and makes me wonder if it could cause a lug to rotate unintentionally and possibly cause the fastener to loosen or over tighten in the process. Graphite and carbon are high on the nobility chart and things lesser than are subject to galvanic corrosion. The craziest thing that I have ever seen is with carbon and aluminum. A marine fuel tank made from aluminum was badly corroded but only in the places where rubber was in close proximity but not a prefect seal. Rubber was placed between the hold downs and under the tank. But the craziest thing was the wire reinforced rubber fuel filler hose. On inside where the fuel flows when filling, the aluminum was corroded. There were two holes clamps on the outside. The outside clamp was a good ways down from the open end of the aluminum tube within. In that void where the rubber wasn’t clamped tight, condensation could accumulate and corrosion almost completely disintegrated the aluminum. Come to find out that lots of rubber parts contain carbon black. When a new tank was installed one of the hose clamps was positioned at the top of aluminum tube and the other was at the very end of the hose. The elastomers pads were replaced with urethane. The hose type couldn’t be changed because of regulations. My example here is; different nobility materials and some sort of electrolyte (moisture having a reactive ph value contaminate either alkalic or acidic) will cause damage. My take away is, one conductive grease or anti oxidant grease isn’t for every application. It’s application specific.
Yeah, I dealt with this stuff. The American version, Cosmoline gets to be a waxy, gummy substance after sitting for 60 years. Commissioned an old, very big lathe that had been sitting in a government warehouse (think last scene in the original Raiders of the Lost Ark). Luckily it was primarily on all bare metal parts. The majority had to be scraped off and the remaining could be removed with kerosene. It was a great manual machine, very well built. Installed modern DROs on it and it is still running as far as I know.
When I say coated I mean thick inside and out …around the spring and follower and endplate…Yeah, I dealt with this stuff. The American version, Cosmoline gets to be a waxy, gummy substance after sitting for 60 years. Commissioned an old, very big lathe that had been sitting in a government warehouse (think last scene in the original Raiders of the Lost Ark). Luckily it was primarily on all bare metal parts. The majority had to be scraped off and the remaining could be removed with kerosene. It was a great manual machine, very well built. Installed modern DROs on it and it is still running as far as I know.
Old inventory of Chinese semi automatics are drowned in this kind of stuff. Must over twenty years ago a guy at a local firing range didn’t clean the bolt of it. At the factory they must have dipped the bare bolt into the stuff. When the new owner fired it for the first time the firing pin was stuck in the forward position. He inserted a full magazine, let the bolt go home and it went into full cycle. Since he didn’t have a good grasp on the weapon, the recoil spun it and killed him.
…..he declined …..Yes, but there is electrical base stuff too! I know for sure there is an adhesive based for circuit repair. I honestly don't know if there is just a grease based silver just for conductivity, I was just thinking it would be better then dialectric grease.
Was that the name of your boat?
There's the cliffnotes right there!
Higher torque without galling. I dont think anyone really ever talks about dielectric grease as a thread lubricant but i use it on all my stainless-to-stainless fasteners basically only for that purpose.
I dont have a problem with anyone NOT using it, but i dont see any downside to applying it between two bolted flanges because it will simply be squeezed out of everything except the voids. My assumption is that between any two imperfect surfaces that are bolted together but not hard enough to conform them to each other, there are 'pathways' that air can travel into and start oxidation which then spreads to the areas of metal that ARE touching each other. So putting grease between two bolted flanges in my mind mostly serves to plug any microscopic 'air gaps' which would otherwise allow oxidation to start between the two flanges.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com
www.materialsperformance.com
I literally proven it does not matter in 1st post of this thread. I guess gut feelings are hard to shake off even when faced with contrary evidence.
