robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
I was asking about the OP, and wondering if he has anything on his connections.
Why is my Type T fuse getting hot?
- Thread starter corn18
- Start date
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
I would highly recommend going back through and redoing all the connections with no-ox-id special. Just a thin coating on any mating electrical connections. It should prevent any of them from oxidizing and becoming a bad/hot connection in future so long as the are occasionally check and retorqued.
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Bluedog225
Texas
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A light sanding of both surfaces, then grease and reconnect.
hwy17
Anti-Solar Enthusiast
Did we ever get the holder model info here?Could be a cheap knockoff holder.
corn18
Village Idiot
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Blue Sea Systems bought direct from Blue Sea Systems.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
One other thing you might look at is a different style mount from Eaton - this doesn't negate the need for a good connection, but if you are getting hot from running high current they might help.
It would need a cover over it. For those with more than one battery bank it is more economical to buy a triple holder verse 3 individual ones.
It would need a cover over it. For those with more than one battery bank it is more economical to buy a triple holder verse 3 individual ones.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
ha ha, I didn't even look at their price. Digikey has bettery prices on anything class T. Just google shopping on the triple and it was $150ish
Another interesting one I saw was post blocks. So it was sold in pair and you mount the fuse then screw it to the mounting box. This made it compatible with any bolt down M10 style fuse.
How about $80 for the single? - follow the link the discription it is pulling back is wrong
Hollow D Rubber Bulb Seal .825"W x .760"H w/Adhesive (By the Foot) LP1750
Size: .825"W x .760"H Color: Black Adhesive: PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive tape)
johnsonssurplus.com
Triple
and digikey
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curiouscarbon
Science Penguin
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never seen a finned heatsink on a fuse block before, but it makes sense!
wonder if that materially changes the trip behavior at all.
thanks for sharing
wonder if that materially changes the trip behavior at all.
thanks for sharing
solarsimon
Solar Enthusiast
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Surely a tight connection won't be able to oxidise on the mated surfaces anyway?
106F or 41C sounds normal. Fuses have to use thin metal conductor so it can melt in event of over current. That thin conductor will have higher resistance than your cables and will run hot.
corn18
Village Idiot
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Ok, got out to the camper today. Replaced the type T fuse with a brand new Buss from Blue Sea Systems. No sign of corrosion when I removed the old one. Cleaned the fuse and fuse holder anyway with deoxit then emory paper. Installed new fuse and ran another load test.
Original test: 71 deg F ambient. 318A load for 10 minutes. Type T fuse got to 106 deg F (35 deg F above ambient)
Today's test: 63 deg F ambient. 308A load for 10 minutes. Type T fuse got to 84 deg F (21 deg above ambient)
So, maybe it's better. Happy that I replaced it because the original fuse took some abuse early in its life from a loose connection.
Original test: 71 deg F ambient. 318A load for 10 minutes. Type T fuse got to 106 deg F (35 deg F above ambient)
Today's test: 63 deg F ambient. 308A load for 10 minutes. Type T fuse got to 84 deg F (21 deg above ambient)
So, maybe it's better. Happy that I replaced it because the original fuse took some abuse early in its life from a loose connection.
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chrisski
Solar Boondocker
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I’ve had a new Class T fuse come slightly warped out of the box.
One end would sit flat, but the other was touching only on the left side, so the flat part did not make contact. Hard to see.
robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
But just how perfect is your connection? Better safe than sorry. And aluminum oxidizes in seconds after cleaning. How fast did you get your lugs bolted down? Also, every milliohm you reduce is less heat generated and less power lost.
