D
Deleted member 783
Guest
These "40" amp breakers were tripping at 23.2 amps, and were almost too hot to touch! I got them on Amazon.
SolarRat
Solar Addict
I was looking at that style on Amazon for my 30a draw trolling motor and saw many of the reviews say the same thing, couldn't handle continuous current and tripped way below their rating. I just used a ANL fuse instead.
I have 30a on pv input, 150a battery sys 1 (1 year)
20a pv input, 100a battery sys 2 (18 months)
Sys 2 in class C and outside under entry step. I have spare 50a I used for batttery side on sys 1 until i upgraded to large inverter setup. Before I got the 150a in I tested it with 600w toaster oven. Blew it as it should and worked fine.
So maybe a quality control issue. Maybe a partial opened breaker.
20a pv input, 100a battery sys 2 (18 months)
Sys 2 in class C and outside under entry step. I have spare 50a I used for batttery side on sys 1 until i upgraded to large inverter setup. Before I got the 150a in I tested it with 600w toaster oven. Blew it as it should and worked fine.
So maybe a quality control issue. Maybe a partial opened breaker.
Last edited:
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
@New Mexico Will, thanks for the heads up. I had ordered 3 yesterday and just cancelled it. I want to think about things a little more before I pull the trigger on something again.
@Ped, thank you for your input as well. Your experience along with the fact that many others appear to have used this style in their builds has me conflicted.
There are several vendors on Amazon who sell this type of breaker. Could we be seeing the differences between two of them? Do you guys know which vendor you used? Maybe there's a trustworthy one. Thanks.
My batt disconnect 150a is this. I know its not exact same but breaker mechanism is.
Then here for my 30a. My sys 2 ones were ordered nearly 2 years ago.
Then here for my 30a. My sys 2 ones were ordered nearly 2 years ago.
D
Deleted member 783
Guest
I ordered these and will install them this weekend & report back.
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
Thanks. Were your bad ones Kumeed (like Ped) or something else?
D
Deleted member 783
Guest
Here is the link to them. No brand name that I see, but they look identical.
SolarRat
Solar Addict
On such relatively basic (but important) things like circuit breakers, which either work or don't work, anything below 4.5 star ratings scare me. On such a simple important device that is supposed to save your huge $$$ investment you don't want to take any chances. That's why I decided to just go the ANL fuse route. And the same ratings apply to the fuse holder...they should all be positive reviews.
If you need a disconnect, install a disconnect. A circuit breaker is not meant to be continuously used as a disconnect...but very occasionally or in an emergency should be no problem.
If you need a disconnect, install a disconnect. A circuit breaker is not meant to be continuously used as a disconnect...but very occasionally or in an emergency should be no problem.
MrNatural22
?SW sunshine =⚡️⚡️lit up thru the darkness✌️
@SolarRat I use this one for my 55lb thrust Minn Kota trolling motor. 2 built in breakers 10amp for 12v assys and 60amp for the trolling motor.
I have a 55ah LiFePo battery inside for power. Makes it pretty light. I use it for a camping power supply when not fishing. $44 bucks right now
Justin Laureltec
Bay Marine Supply Tech Support Manager
I gotta say... the Bussman Series 285 surface-mount 40A breaker (of which the T Tocas is a knockoff) is only $38.00. I know the T Tocas is half the price (or more? I didn't see a price in that screenshot), but I very strongly feel that reliability and trustworthiness in a fuse or breaker that's protecting thousands of dollars worth of equipment is well worth the additional investment to get name-brand.
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
You're a mind-reader. I was just going to try and pull you into this!
Bob142
Build more, learn more.
Didn't you suggest some din rail breakers as well at one point? I'm trying to find that thread.
Justin Laureltec
Bay Marine Supply Tech Support Manager
Here's the link to the 285 series on our eBay store, just for comparison: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Reset-Ther...PGWwJyfAWBI0tTw:sc:USPSFirstClass!92120!US!-1
Now, I'm not saying that you might not be able to get the 285 or 187-series cheaper somewhere else... you might, and you're welcome to, by all means. I'm just saying... man... spring for the genuine Buss fuses/breakers/etc. These little components are not, IMO, the place to cut corners on a system install.
I mean, I don't think there actually are any places to cut corners on an install... not when dealing with high voltage/high amperage/high cost components. Another $20 here and there to protect my $2600 battery/inverter system that I have at home is a cost I was happy to pay.
Justin Laureltec
Bay Marine Supply Tech Support Manager
Yeahhh I was recommending the MidNite Solar MNEPV breakers for PV>controller breaking specifically, since they go to high voltages... they're great on the controller>batt side, too, they're just usually unnecessary because you'll be at a lower voltage on that side and can use cheaper 187 or 285 breakers.
D
Deleted member 783
Guest
Well, half the battle is knowing what's out there. I'm running blind here, going on Amazon reviews and what I see here. Two of the Tocan knock offs were $47 shipped.
People are talking about cutting corners-I'm not trying to cut corners. I'm happy to pay for quality, but it's VERY hard to determine quality over the internet on a lot of this stuff.
Justin Laureltec
Bay Marine Supply Tech Support Manager
Ah! Fair enough! Bussman (or Buss or Eaton Cooper Bussman) is the name to look for in quality breakers/fuses/etc. They're OEM for all of Blue Sea's fuses and breakers (ie, the Blue Sea 7182 = the Bussman CB285F-40 in Blue Sea's packaging) as well as OEM for a vast number of automakers and home electrical systems (when you're in Home Depot and see Cooper light switches or breakers, it's the same Cooper as Eaton Cooper Bussman).
Basically, short of LittelFuse and a bare handful of others, Bussman is pretty much the electrical switch/fuse/breaker component supplier for half the planet.
Now, I've certainly encountered some knockoffs that actually performed just fine... but you start running into issues like overheating, early popping, late popping, and below-rated capabilities because the Bussman external design was copied but not the internal components/ build quality. Thus why I always say, don't take the chance unless you literally have no choice. Any breaker is arguably better than no breaker... but man, a defective off-brand breaker can be disastrous because it gives you a false sense of security.
So, off my soapbox, sorry... but definitely look for genuine Bussman/Buss/Eaton Cooper Bussman components when you're looking for your fuses/breakers/etc if you really want dependability and performance to listed specifications.
