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diy solar

Need some help please !!

Donna W

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2019
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I have a goal zero unit that I want to use to help lower my power, not just be for outages. I have 4 100 watt panels in parallel, but they only get sun for a very short time, so I need to move them about 150 ft from the house. I know I need a bigger gauge wire, maybe 4 awg. So how will I connect 4 awg to mc4 ?? Now I have 10 gauge wire with mc4 connectors on each in, as in plug and play system. Also need anyone's advice on places to buy 4 awg wire at decent prices.
TIA Donna
 
The panels get connected together with the MC4 10Ga wire in series / parallel to a combiner at which point you get to heavier grade wire to take that DC power to your solar controller. The distance + Volts/Amps DC will dictate which wire will suit the case. Also if you are running underground if in conduit or not which type of wire to get as well... such as NMWU (Non Metalic Wet Underground). Keep in mind there are electrical codes & guidelines relative to your region which may apply.

Copper Wire is not cheap and will never get any cheaper, if you have the slightest inkling that you may want to upgrade / expand your solar panel capacity in the future (safe bet you will) ten buy copper wire that suits the bigger use case today. It's a hap load cheaper to buy it once & not have to replace it... I now have a couple of grand worth of coiled up wire which is going to the Spring Garage Sale and some of it sells for $19 per metre or more too when I bought it a couple of years ago (it;s more now).
 
I looked for mc4 connectors, but could not find any for 4 awg wire, I think I need bigger wire for as far as I am going to have to run the line. No copper anything is not cheap lol
 
MC4 connectors will only handle up to 10 gauge wire, max 30 amps.
What you will probably need to do is bring all of the panels into a combiner box near the panels, then run heavy gauge wire from there back to the electronics.
 
It would cost way too much to run 4 awg that distance and it still won't be ideal. Can you just place the goal zero near the panels (in an outside box or something) so that you can just run 120vac through much smaller wires (12g extension cords, depending on load of course)?
 
Thank you !!! I looked but could only find 10 and 14 gauge mc4 , so a combiner box may work. I may have to bring it closer and not get the all day sun I wanted. the goal zero won't do well outside I don;t think, I guess I would have been better to built from ground up, but liked the plug and play idea better. Thank you all
 
Think I have come up with a solution, divide the panels, 2 on one side 2 on the other. 1 set will get morning sun, 1 set afternoon sun and both get mid day, this way I can use shorter cables. Thank you everyone for the help!!!
 
Are these a substitute for a combiner box?
Only up to a point. They make it easy to combine panels, but the combined output is on a 10 gauge wire, so the max combined panel input can still only be 30A, very easy to exceed with multiple panels.
A combiner can be designed to handle hundreds of amps.
 
I have 4 100w panels in parallel, they max out at just under 24 amps.
 
What about the 4 100w panels Donna asked about?

Those connectors connect the panels in parallel, do they not?
Yes, they are in parallel. However, she did not state the voltage of the panels. If they are 12VDC panels @400w, that's just over 33amps, and exceed the wire's rating. If 24VDC panels, that's 17A. Add a fudge factor of 1.25%, that's just under 22Amps, and would be OK.
 
Out of all our very knowledgeable, super helpful solar groupies, not one mentioned the substantial avantage of connecting the parallel panel arrangement in a series, or series parralel arrangement to increase the voltage which mean less loss in the 150' wires. ~ Speaking of wire, Windy Nation, direct burial, number six gauge, stranded copper wire, with Loni Anderson connectors already installed is available reasonable at Home Depot. I've worked with this wire, it's excellent.~ Note: If someone mentioned increasing the voltage, (if the charge controller is capable of higher voltage input), in this post, please forgive me, i missed it, it's early in the morning and I've not had my first six cups of coffee. ☮
 
Well, what we've all kind of glossed over is the fact that the OP is using a Goal Zero. All the way up to the 1400W unit, the input can only handle a max of 22V and 120W. It would be helpful to know what specific unit the OP is using. All of our discussion above was related to the wire size, and not the end device to be charged.
 
Well, what we've all kind of glossed over is the fact that the OP is using a Goal Zero. All the way up to the 1400W unit, the input can only handle a max of 22V and 120W. It would be helpful to know what specific unit the OP is using. All of our discussion above was related to the wire size, and not the end device to be charged.
Right on thanks for Xplainin.
 
It is the yeti 3000, and yes I think max is 1400 w, (120V AC Inverter: 120VAC 60Hz, 12.5A (1500W, 3000W surge) from their website. This is link to product https://www.goalzero.com/shop/portable-power/goal-zero-yeti-3000-lithium-portable-power-station-app/ . I think I am just going to devide my panels and put 2 on each side of the house, 2 to get the am sun and 2 get the evening sun, both will have midday sun, but afternoon I will loose to shade from the neighbors trees. This way I can just stay with a 10 awg line about 30 ft long.
 
From the specs:
  • Charging port (input, 8mm): 14-22V, up to 10A (120W max)
  • Power Pole charging port (input): 14-22V, up to 30A (360W max)
The 1400w is how much you can draw, not charge.
Your manual explicitly indicates not to exceed 22VDC on either of the inputs.
 
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