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Trying to run mini Spilt off inverter at 220V..

Mart Hale

Mart Hale

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Feb 4, 2020
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I am trying to figure out if my mini split will work with either of these inverters.


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At present the Mini split is hooked up with 2 lines in both at 110V for 220.

Details of my mini Split ->




1611888828673.png
 
Probably. Mini-splits usually have little to no surge. With a SEER of 25, you should expect a 9000BTU/25BTU/W = 360W typical load.

I would expect either inverter to work. 36V? icky
 
Yeah my concern was what if something in this mini split like the indoor controller has to have 110 V to run....... The input

Per the label on the unit the highest is 9 amps at 220V, so right in the neighbor hood of 2000 watts probably when I turn on the heat it would pull that much....

......

This is inverter runs at 36v, yes I agre icky, but my brand new lithium batteries I got for $100 a KWH were configured this way so I was stuck with with this way of going about it.

----


I have thought to myself what if I grab a 5 KWH battery and devote it only to running the mini split, The advantage of me doing this would I could expand the number of panels I can use with my Outback Inverter from 36 V to 48 V would give me far more watts I could input...

1611891878745.png


But in doing so, That would mean I would need to get an Hybrid MPPT charge controller / inverter....





------------------------------------------

Yet another idea I had...... which I believe to be a bad idea...

I have a 24V system, and a 36V system.


What if I brought in 120V line from each of these systems and ran the mini split with the combined lines?

The problem I see with this is that the sine wave of the two systems may be out of phase for what the mini split would require......
( I don't know, I am just too scared to mess up my mini split ) ..... it works SOOOO well right now. but I so want to move it to solar power....
 
I am sorry. I missed that those were single phase inverters. I would try to find a split phase inverter.

Trying to use 120V from two sources to obtain 240V would only work if you used 2X inverters designed to sync. Otherwise, they would definitely be out of phase with each other.
 
You did not miss it, the inverts above that I first posted put out 240 only, these are the ones I am considering buying, but I am not making a move until I know that it would work...... I think I will pull up my manual for my Senville Mini split and see if they say I can just hook 230 V in direct.
 
I looked at a wiring diagram recently for another brand, and while the compressor accepted L1 and L2 only (no neutral), the blower unit required specifically L1 and N.

Dig into the details. I think you're going to find you need split phase.
 
After doing tons of digging, I found this ->

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LEZETI 11,500 BTU Ductless Mini Split SOLAR Air Conditioner & Heat Pump 35 SEER | eBay

Les meilleures offres pour LEZETI 11,500 BTU Ductless Mini Split SOLAR Air Conditioner & Heat Pump 35 SEER sont sur eBay â Comparez les prix et les spécificités des produits neufs et d'occasion â Pleins d'articles en livraison gratuite!
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A mini split that runs directly of solar DC. $1000, plus $150.00 shipping. that 35 SEER has me blown away if it is true.
 
I installed 2 mini splits, 1) Serville, 9000, btu, 2) Mr Cool 12,000 BTU. They work awesome. I did buy the U shaped air in the video above, It uses at top 450 watts of power. for 10,000 btu. It is very quiet, and does not put out as far as the 9000 serville mini split, but I am pleased with it.
 
Mart Hale said:
Yeah my concern was what if something in this mini split like the indoor controller has to have 110 V to run....... The input

Per the label on the unit the highest is 9 amps at 220V, so right in the neighbor hood of 2000 watts probably when I turn on the heat it would pull that much....

......

This is inverter runs at 36v, yes I agre icky, but my brand new lithium batteries I got for $100 a KWH were configured this way so I was stuck with with this way of going about it.

----


I have thought to myself what if I grab a 5 KWH battery and devote it only to running the mini split, The advantage of me doing this would I could expand the number of panels I can use with my Outback Inverter from 36 V to 48 V would give me far more watts I could input...

View attachment 34969


But in doing so, That would mean I would need to get an Hybrid MPPT charge controller / inverter....





------------------------------------------

Yet another idea I had...... which I believe to be a bad idea...

I have a 24V system, and a 36V system.


What if I brought in 120V line from each of these systems and ran the mini split with the combined lines?

The problem I see with this is that the sine wave of the two systems may be out of phase for what the mini split would require......
( I don't know, I am just too scared to mess up my mini split ) ..... it works SOOOO well right now. but I so want to move it to solar power....
Click to expand...
I find running a 36v battery on a 24v system very easy. Just get an MPPT (I use a victron 150/50 SmartSolar) and wire the 36v to the PV inputs, wire the BAT outputs to your 24v. Suddenly your "PV" inputs to the 24v system last long into the night. The fact that you can add another MPPT to the 36v battery is a bonus because it can bring in more watts at the same amperage from panels. Be sure to conjure up some sort of low voltage cut off on the 36v side. You don't want to suck your 36v batteries below 20% if you can avoid it. Especially every day.

For a while, I had a setup that "evolved" into a series of boost+MPPT "up-chargers" where 12v fed 24v, 24v fed 36v, and 36v fed 48v. Very inefficient but I could add any voltage of battery to the system and get some benefit. It is MUCH more efficient and easier to feed from higher voltages to lower voltages.
 
good4politics said:
I find running a 36v battery on a 24v system very easy. Just get an MPPT (I use a victron 150/50 SmartSolar) and wire the 36v to the PV inputs, wire the BAT outputs to your 24v. Suddenly your "PV" inputs to the 24v system last long into the night. The fact that you can add another MPPT to the 36v battery is a bonus because it can bring in more watts at the same amperage from panels. Be sure to conjure up some sort of low voltage cut off on the 36v side. You don't want to suck your 36v batteries below 20% if you can avoid it. Especially every day.

For a while, I had a setup that "evolved" into a series of boost+MPPT "up-chargers" where 12v fed 24v, 24v fed 36v, and 36v fed 48v. Very inefficient but I could add any voltage of battery to the system and get some benefit. It is MUCH more efficient and easier to feed from higher voltages to lower voltages.
Click to expand...
Woof… kinda resurrected an old thread here…
 
good4politics said:
I find running a 36v battery on a 24v system very easy. Just get an MPPT (I use a victron 150/50 SmartSolar) and wire the 36v to the PV inputs, wire the BAT outputs to your 24v. Suddenly your "PV" inputs to the 24v system last long into the night. The fact that you can add another MPPT to the 36v battery is a bonus because it can bring in more watts at the same amperage from panels. Be sure to conjure up some sort of low voltage cut off on the 36v side. You don't want to suck your 36v batteries below 20% if you can avoid it. Especially every day.

For a while, I had a setup that "evolved" into a series of boost+MPPT "up-chargers" where 12v fed 24v, 24v fed 36v, and 36v fed 48v. Very inefficient but I could add any voltage of battery to the system and get some benefit. It is MUCH more efficient and easier to feed from higher voltages to lower voltages.
Click to expand...


Interesting...... I have a 12V, 24V, 36V systems... I noticed that after my 36 V system was charged, at 2 PM each day that I had tons extra energy that I was not using from the solar panels.... So, after much testing I went direct from the solar panels to my hot water heater via a relay, and that relay is in series to the hot water thermostat of the hot water heater so it magically cuts off when the heater is up to temp. But now that I have that done, I am starting to look at my 24V system it also cuts off at 2PM.... I am now looking at how I can create more dump loads from the solar panels. For fun I put a hot water heater element in sand and it is keeping five 5 gal buckets worth of sand at the temp of 130 - 160 deg F 24 hours a day with 2 solar panels..... If I add one more panel, I have a crock pot as it will be in the cooking range of temps.

To move the energy from the 36V to the 24V I have been plugging the 24V battery charger on the inverter into the AC outlet of the 36V system. This works but I wonder which is more efficient input to via the PV lines as you suggest or via the charger.... I imagine there is no conversion to AC might be slightly more efficient with your method. Anyhow thanks for your creative solution.
 
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