diy solar

diy solar

Disaster relief solar for Abaco in the Bahamas. Hurricane Dorian.

In my mind...
Can't say I haven't been thinking the same thing. It's one thing to salvage parts, put together a working couple of systems, but the reality is that these systems need to be pretty bullet proof, ruggedized, simple for anyone to use. No way a team of tech geeks is going down just to build these up and support them, it has to be corporate created and consumer installable. While I'm proud of the system I made and the how well the fridge performs, it's a jury-rig. Pre-manufactured, ready-to-go systems are what's needed here.

I'll continue testing and post results, but I think it will be for naught.
 
In my mind if you’re looking for funding from big-name companies I think your best bet is to go with simple concise “beautiful” systems even if it ends up being more money… I default to repurposing and trying to save nickels and dimes here and there but...

if you’re looking for real money I think your best approach would be to..

put together an off-the-shelf “solar generator“ with solar panels and miscellaneous and approach a company like Target or Best Buy or 3M and put together a “beautiful” presentation that shows that for every $1500 they’re willing to donate they can get two families up and running with basic necessities in the Bahamas.

Then your next task is to contact an all in one manufacture and see if they’re willing to match dollar for dollar with whatever big corporation you’re working with in exchange for the media attention.

Finally and not necessarily in this order you contact whatever social media or other media outlet makes the most sense including Will and put together something that will catch the publics eye and get it talked about and show how great of a company/companies are involved.

Then you end up on Ellen and she donates dollar for dollar everything that you’ve already managed to get complements of Shutterfly!

This seems to be the way the world works anyways
That’s almost word for word what other folks have been telling me and that’s not the first time Ellen’s name has been brought up.
 
Don’t know to what extent you follow other YouTube Solar/battery channels but Jehu attempted to do a live event around this...maybe reach out to him as well?

Sorry Will if this isn’t “right”... not my intention to promote other people’s channels..


Maybe “sailing doodles” as well...he recently did a couple of episodes and may have connection with air transport...?
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Ok, as promised. The "suitcase" I used was exactly the same one I described in my For Camping thread. The attached PDF data sheet also specifies the hardware. I hooked everything up yesterday and let it run for 24 hours. Caveats: the freezer has an external thermostat on the power line to regulate the temp between 30* and 34*. It was pre-chilled on line power before starting this series, wanted to get 'running' power usage as opposed to startup. The freezer was empty. It's generally accepted that a fridge/freezer with contents stabilizes the internal temp and runs less frequently. The freezer was never opened. In the real world, frequent open/close increases run time. I tried to take all battery reading with the freezer was not running, so as to get 'resting' battery voltage.

The purpose was to see exactly how much power was required to run a small fridge in order to properly size a system adequate for Tbird's emergency assistance thoughts. I was surprised myself at the actual numbers. Cliff Notes: the freezer as configured draws about 1050W on startup, less than I thought. Running usage was about 70W. After running a few numbers, the overall power usage for 24 hours works out to about 10W per hour, less than .3KWH over 24 hours. After losing charge power in the evening and running all night, the battery was still at 12.5VDC in the morning, which is 90% charged for an AGM. I did notice surge/sag voltage drops to about 10.9VDC, but I'm sure they were short lived and of no real concern. Because the battery was still pretty full, the charge rates from the PV and charger were pretty low, around 15W, once in a while as much as 90W. In the AM, the charge rate jumped to 160W, but the battery charged up quickly and by 11AM cut back to 15W again. The takeaway.... LOTS of spare charge power available. LOTS. Instead of a 3.5cf (100litres) unit, I would, using this setup, opt for something around 7cf (198L) or 2-3 smaller units and could easily charge multiple batteries. All from a single 270W panel.

But we need to step this up a bit. This morning I disconnected the small freezer and connected a full size kitchen fridge with top freezer, a 10 year old Kemnmore 21cf. Again, pre-chilled it on line power before testing. Results encouraging! Power on surge was around 1300W, running usage around 100W. A couple of interesting notes..... when the big fridge kicked on, the solar charger kicked into high gear, with charge rates in excess of 190W from the panel, 14.0A to the battery. The charge rates topped of the battery in no time at all, and cut back to float charge while the fridge was still running! The only down side was the run time. Where the little freezer/fridge had runtime cycles of 4-5 minutes, the big fridge ran for 25-30 minutes per cycle. Still low wattage, but much more of it required.

Takeaway: the system as used is more than adequate for a small freezer or dorm fridge with plenty of excess power for charging device like phones, laptop, cordless drills. If a large fridge is to be powered, I would upgrade the inverter to a minimum of 2000W, 3000 preferable, and add 2-3 more battery capacity to cover night time usage. Replacing the AGM with Lithium would also provide more long distance power. If using a large fridge, you might think that a new energy efficient one would work well, but keep in mind many have auto-defrost features and ice makers. Both take power. A fridge without these features (or turned off) would extend battery life.

And that's what I did on my summer vacation.
 

Attachments

  • Power Chart.pdf
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Just an update. I let the full size fridge run overnight. Battery was fully peaked at sunset. By 11pm the battery was down to 12.4VDC resting. It did not make it thru the night, the inverter shut down due to low voltage. The fridge wasn't particularly cold, so it has been off for a while.
 
To add another data point to what Rider has started, I have been monitoring my refrigerators with a Kill o watt meter for a couple days. These are full sized units, freezer on top. For the GE 17CF, Startup is about 450 watts, once running it settles in around 100 watts. Over 52.57 hours, it used 2.21 KWH. This one doesn't have a ice maker and the kids aren't in and out of it on a regular basis. It is partially full and lives in the garage (80-90F during the test period). My 2000 watt, 12v inverter and a charged spare old starter battery from one of my cars was able to run it for 4.5 hours before SOC started getting low. I noticed the fans on the inverter never came on, which is good. Based on the numbers, 2 or 3 car batteries in parallel could run it over night if that's all that was available. A proper 100ah deep cycle should have no problems making it through the night especially with a smaller fridge. I'll run some more tests once I get my used Valence U27-12XPs in. They should arrive next week.

The fridge in the kitchen (15 year old Whirlpool 21 cf) does have and ice maker. When the ice maker is getting ready to dump ice, it uses 400 watts. Normal running is 110 watts. Over 26.5 hours, it's consumed 2.2 KWH. This one is pretty full. During the mornings, I might as well take the door off for 40 minutes. The kids are in the fridge constantly, figuring out breakfast and lunch. It's still on the meter, so I figure I'll let it go for another day.


I didn't monitor charging very closely since I was just recharging my poor starter battery. I'll be curious to see how it charges the LiFePO4 cells.
 
An electric fridge uses a compressor and compressors use a LOT of power. How about using a propane fridge? Can you get propane down there?

What about designing a solid state fridge using peltier elements? When you apply power, one side gets hot the other side gets cold. They can also generate small amounts of power if there is a temperature difference between the 2 sides. Search for videos on Youtube. Here's a Youtube search for [peltier element cooler].
 
An electric fridge uses a compressor and compressors use a LOT of power. How about using a propane fridge? Can you get propane down there?

What about designing a solid state fridge using peltier elements? When you apply power, one side gets hot the other side gets cold. They can also generate small amounts of power if there is a temperature difference between the 2 sides. Search for videos on Youtube. Here's a Youtube search for [peltier element cooler].
FYI, Peltiers are extremely inefficient, compressors make MUCH better use of the power they use.
 
FYI, Peltiers are extremely inefficient, compressors make MUCH better use of the power they use.
Wow, you're right. I just found a comparison on Youtube.

Koolatron P75 uses Peltier technology: uses 91amps (1092watts) per day
Alpicool C20 uses a compressor: uses 5.8A (70W) per day
 
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