diy solar

diy solar

locating rafters on shingle roof

Just as an FYI whose racking system are you using?

unistrut with Magerack flashing and brackets. I'm well aware it's not listed. it's all off-grid; nothing in my system is listed. I'm also well aware of AFCI, ground-fault and RSD requirements on residential installs.
 
unistrut with Magerack flashing and brackets. I'm well aware it's not listed. it's all off-grid; nothing in my system is listed. I'm also well aware of AFCI, ground-fault and RSD requirements on residential installs.
sounds like your fairly rural, so no worries about Firefighter safety by the time they get there just the foundation will be left to save.
 
sure it will. i'll measure from the outside first. the space i'm mounting to is next to a gable end, so I can cheat and easily reference from that.

Not against drilling....it is your roof. However--- guys installing panels use a hammer to find the rafters and I know for a fact it works especially if you have only a single layer of shingles. You should at least give it a try. The hammering sound is much different when over a rafter. You have zilch to lose
 
overall, the mallet method to listen for the change near rafters is working. i missed one and had to shift 1" left, but the hole was under the flashing.

i was able to locate a rafter from the point where i exited the soffit for the conduit run, so that has been my starting point. very helpful to be able to measure 16" on center from there.
 
i'm really torn with this flashing kit. i REALLY like that the base of the entire bracket is covered in one-piece flashing. that's awesome. the pain is that you have to bend them up to get the lag bolt in then pull it back down to screw the flashing to the bracket.

 
i'm really torn with this flashing kit. i REALLY like that the base of the entire bracket is covered in one-piece flashing. that's awesome. the pain is that you have to bend them up to get the lag bolt in then pull it back down to screw the flashing to the bracket.

IronRidge is the answer


The entire bolt is covered by the attachment point which just twists and locks and place. Will never leak, worth the cost!!
 
IronRidge is the answer


The entire bolt is covered by the attachment point which just twists and locks and place. Will never leak, worth the cost!!
X2!!! Ironridge is a great system. And it's almost idiot proof for both DIY like me and contractors using guys they hired last week.
 
anyone have tips/tricks for finding roof trusses without drilling holes? a "normal" stud finder does not work through the shingles and 3/4" ply.

i'm thinking of using some magnets. climb up into the attic and place a magnet on each side of a rafter, then go up on the roof and use a magnet to "find" the edges. then, measure out 16" on center from there.

others have also suggested to get an 8" long 1/8" drill bit, and drill a pilot hole from in the attic to the outside directly through the center of the truss, then measure on center from there. seems reasonable, just doesn't allow me to precisely measure from on the roof
I started off by measuring from the attic from all the penetrations existing on the roof: vent pipes, ridge vent, and chimneys. I tried to tap and in some places it worked well and other places didn't work at all. I did miss a few and went in the attic to see which way I needed to move. However the miss-holes were all within the small Quickbolt2 flashing. I did use the Quickbolt2 with the extra Miniflashing tucked under the shingle above. Seemed like it was less destructive on my new roof than some of the other methods.
 
i'll look into. last I priced it the cost to ship was more than the product itself.

So?

it works and it is a one time cost to never have a roof leak.

There are lots of ways to pay less, but the savings will long be forgotten when you have a lifetime of issues.
 
i should clarify, referring to the Ironridge "system". i specd out 50' of rail in 14ft sections and shipping was $950. stupid.

Why is a system that will last the life of roof and never leak be stupid?

I believe for my 28 panels, it was ~2K, meets 145mph wind codes, easy to install and will last the life of the new roof its mounted on a great value.

My second system, I did a DYI racking, 5 years later leaks, not fun pulling over 50 panels off a roof to replace everything.

Best of luck!
 
Why is a system that will last the life of roof and never leak be stupid?

Ironridge is great. the price for shipping is what's stupid.

i'm all for doing things "right" and if i was putting on a huge system like that i would be paying a contractor to do it all. This is a first pass, 8 panels, all very conveniently located for service by me. I'm not even sure this (or any) system will be there long-term. It's a solar experiment for us to see if we think a larger system is worth the cost.
 
Ironridge is great. the price for shipping is what's stupid.

i'm all for doing things "right" and if i was putting on a huge system like that i would be paying a contractor to do it all. This is a first pass, 8 panels, all very conveniently located for service by me. I'm not even sure this (or any) system will be there long-term. It's a solar experiment for us to see if we think a larger system is worth the cost.

Then use the 7ft rails, they can ship ups, just get the splice kits. At a minimum, use the flashfoot2 and use whatever you want for the railing, that way if you expand, they can be reused as it, but the time savings alone is worth using all the system parts.

Anything over 7ft goes truck and yes, that is expensive.
 
I have not had any leaks with the QuickBolt 2 mounts either.

I used them on a shed roof so I can continually inspect for leaks and there have been none.

The Flashfoots I used also have no leaks but they were more of a pain to install and I hate lifting up shingles that the sun has sealed over time.
 
anyone have tips/tricks for finding roof trusses without drilling holes? a "normal" stud finder does not work through the shingles and 3/4" ply.

i'm thinking of using some magnets. climb up into the attic and place a magnet on each side of a rafter, then go up on the roof and use a magnet to "find" the edges. then, measure out 16" on center from there.

others have also suggested to get an 8" long 1/8" drill bit, and drill a pilot hole from in the attic to the outside directly through the center of the truss, then measure on center from there. seems reasonable, just doesn't allow me to precisely measure from on the roof
I had good luck using magnets in the attic on each side of the rafters while using a compass on top of the roof to mark each side with chalk.
After marking each side of the rafters towards the top and bottom of the roof, I pulled a chalk line over each rafter.
 
I had good luck using magnets in the attic on each side of the rafters while using a compass on top of the roof to mark each side with chalk.
After marking each side of the rafters towards the top and bottom of the roof, I pulled a chalk line over each rafter.

WOW! That IMHO is a great deal of unnecessary work.
 
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