Solar Panel Install Piece By Piece
- Thread starter plr
- Start date
As long as they can't be blown away, you're fine.
I would just make sure to use weather caps on the connectors. This insulates the contacts which are in a recess, but also keeps moisture out. Water can deatroy the connectors if trapped inside and generally should be at least hung tips down to keep condensationamd wind blown rain out of them.
I keep weather caps from microinverter packaging in my organizer totes for just this, then i have mc4 connectors with the ends taped shut red marking tape. These are signal to the rest of the crew..... do not remove until told its ok. these are for the positive leads where an array is put on before wiring, or more usual mid array install.
Poor practice to not wire it up first and
Ground wire is the first wire to land.
"Land on the ground before you run around."
plr
New Member
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- Sep 21, 2019
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Thanks Kernel but I am using S5 PV Kit with PV Discs on my standing seam metal roof which I understood to ground the panels. Please let me know if I am mistaken and thanks again
The s-5 clamps will bite metal but cannot ensure all the roofing will be bonded.
This is no issue. Best practice, code and standard of the industry, i promise......
Is to properly support amd secure all of the array wiring in such a manner that it is not going to touch the roof or even sag..... keep all wiring secured above the level of the middle or bottom of the rail....... in this case and i have installed quite a few of them..... keep the wiring clipped and zipped to the module frames - high and tight- my crews first rooftop electric lesson is array wiring management and they know "high and tight" first time round. Its important.
Use the acme or heyco pv module wiring clips. I wouldnt use much of any of the other offerings.
Thomas and betts, panduit, or some other good 45 and 55 lb black zip ties get plenty and twice what you think is plenty. We zip through 300 easily on medium size systems even though we hang wire on stainless rail clips every 2 feet and wherever else needed.
Zip ties..... they can work outstanding in the right situations, bundling, turn buckling, securing but we strive to have no wiring relying entirely on zip ties to keep the management.
Int he photos are one of the mounts like yours.... you will have to "pop the hood" on each module, have someone lay it down and sandwich you in there to get it. I slide out the side while holding the tail of the last zip tie and wire and pull tight in place as they lay it down on the mount. Not fun at 90° especially on asphalt shingles, but i do every single one for quality control.
The ground mount shows the way we secure wire forever! We do this on rooftop stuff too if its in the budget. Cusion clamps, listed ones amd stainless with stainless tek screws..... its my perosonal guarantee that your wires will never sag below the rails And will will never lose zip ties to time amd cold etc., allowing the wire to get snagged, pinched, blown bac and forth until there is a hole in the jacket or ever touch your metal roof.... 1$ apiece and worth every penny.
Thomas and betts, panduit, or some other good 45 and 55 lb black zip ties get plenty and twice what you think is plenty. We zip through 300 easily on medium size systems even though we hang wire on stainless rail clips every 2 feet and wherever else needed.
Zip ties..... they can work outstanding in the right situations, bundling, turn buckling, securing but we strive to have no wiring relying entirely on zip ties to keep the management.
Int he photos are one of the mounts like yours.... you will have to "pop the hood" on each module, have someone lay it down and sandwich you in there to get it. I slide out the side while holding the tail of the last zip tie and wire and pull tight in place as they lay it down on the mount. Not fun at 90° especially on asphalt shingles, but i do every single one for quality control.
The ground mount shows the way we secure wire forever! We do this on rooftop stuff too if its in the budget. Cusion clamps, listed ones amd stainless with stainless tek screws..... its my perosonal guarantee that your wires will never sag below the rails And will will never lose zip ties to time amd cold etc., allowing the wire to get snagged, pinched, blown bac and forth until there is a hole in the jacket or ever touch your metal roof.... 1$ apiece and worth every penny.
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The s-5s bond all of the module frames electrically as one...... yes, absolutely. And when this is connected to the rest of the electrical system it is then made safe.
Its why we try to always have the wiring in the rooftop junction/passthrough or ground mount disconnect before having the source assembled to a state of high electrical potential.
You will do nothing wrong the way you have it. Just know there is reason for what i said and you are responsible for your work and safety.
There is technical danger, but practical experience and millions of installs have the situation you have without issue.
