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The orange pi has 2 usb ports, think it can talk to two inverters

https://moises.ai/ is an idea for separating out the components of the audio in this video.

Do we need to register on mysolark.com or wait for all the migration to conclude? Wording seems to indicate wait, but want to ensure I don't mess anything up or lose any data.

I have a garage full of tools and a real hankering to use them. What more motivation do I need?

75a to inverter Need more specs for panels (voltage, series/parallel config, if you plan on an inspection)

The eg4 would take the enphase input on the generator. From the manual

Enphase's overpriced batteries or ac coupling an AIO are your options

Wireway or wiring trough. Local electric suppliers carry them

Is the fuse still 175 degrees?

It's the subtlety of the phrasing current limiter. ANN 35a fuse will blow in about 0.3 seconds at 70 amps, ANL will blow in 10 seconds.

With 2 or more inverters, I think a chargeverter would better suit your generator to directly charge the batteries Rather than pass through an inverter.

But can your solar assistant run doom?

manual calls for a fused disconnect between solark and grid (diagrams starting at page 47)

I just removed a little of the the heat shrink and used the handily sized holes at top and bottom. This made a better connection for doing 2 lugs (front and back vs stacked) i say this with stacked connections in the same photo.

For a 12v system, this may be plenty.

PV Pro is offline for me. Flaky since last 2 updates.

DC overvoltage? Is it a single unit faulting or random units? Might need to let that unit balance itself.

Even when it was 30f here, the inverter stayed about 160...

the latest solark update jacked up my whole connectivity. Glad I have Solar Assistant in place to see actuals as the Solark communicator is only online about 3 hours a day lately.

You can forego the breaker if you're brave. Can also use a fuse. I prefer to have protection on all circuits with the potential to ignite

Personally I'd recommend something more permanent. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HFBLDN as a suggestion for type. You don't have to go with this brand. edit: Read it a little closer, you can direct wire from your shore input if you have one to a breaker and then to the EG4

Check this setting "Max solar power"

That's for the whole day, not any specific time. The daily view shows you 5-10 minute snapshots

This shows a 1 hour gap in the production logging But the daily is correct

I'm hoping with the increase of prevalence of 51.2v batteries, the other components of matching spec will increase in availability.

My Solark has terrible gaps in its data when I go to their site. SolarAssistant keeps better logs

Specs seem to indicate 600v. Doesn't indicate AC/DC, but the DC32v ones are usually 250vac https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BC6031B?qs=dryG%252BOqy3PbxIlo%2F1WOC3A%3D%3D

For this 1a load, i think a standard house switch would be okay if it's fused before the switch

They seem to think it will be much cheaper to produce than current panels, too. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-024-46620-1 https://en.shiftdelete.net/solar-panels-becoming-obsolete-a-70-cheaper-alternative-is-coming/

does your battery have a current limiter? a cutoff switch at the battery?

Solark 15k doesn't have a cutoff on GRID. There is a DC breaker and LOAD breaker, but no GRID breaker. I'd ask for clarification, I can't find anything referencing a BSET socket.

Spinning != Working Could be spinning too slow to make meaningful air movement

Ain't got no gas in it... Only thing I can think of is the reset button. All breakers are off in your picture, though. Might need BMSTest app to help awaken them when voltage is applied

Unit is 5 months old, replaced entire air conditioning system with an inverter system, no longer need soft start. Also no longer need the nest device, but probably no market for those.