Search results

I’ve had a new Class T fuse come slightly warped out of the box. One end would sit flat, but the other was touching only on the left side, so the flat part did not make contact. Hard to see.

Would you mind sharing the specs on the panels? VOC, VMP, ISC, IMP.

I don’t think it matters much. In my opinion because of shading, the 100 - 200 watt panels are better because of shading on the roof. At least I use them because of that on my roof to lessen loss from vents and ACs and skylights.

Not sure I know what you mean . Most 12 volt panels out out 18 to 21 volts, so can hurt electronics. 12 volt panels mean more will work with a 12 volt PWM.

I don’t use the converter to charge the batteries because the 1650 watts of panel on the roof provides plenty. The LEDs and entertainment system don’t have that much of a draw. Also makes me feel when I’m plugged into shore power all that work I did on the solar installation is worth it,

I would install a 30 amp fuse with 10 AWG wire, but first look at the voltage loss for that length. Probably not. I would only isolate the system if the charging of the AC->DC converter+20 amps for the DC to DC converter exceeds the max charge rate of the battery. Usually 10% of the 20 hour...

I recommend you start a new thread on this. If you really just need two or three heads the mini-split would work. I have central air and considered replacing the central air with a four head mini-split, but have opted against it. There were three smaller areas that the central air takes care...

If you pull out 40%, how much do you know that's left? The sealed can't have a hydrometer, and voltage may not be the most reliable for determining what's left. I'm against capacity testing lead acid batteries, because their life can easily be cut by discharging too deep.

As @MiSh says, the battery charts look like this: 235*.6 I don't think you'll find an actual formula that at 700 cycles and half way through the 1400 cycle lifecycle, at 40% DOD, how many amp hours are left at that 700 th cycle. I do think that 40% loss f battery capacity is a bit unusual...

Need more data on that. How many AMp Hours do you use overnight and as compared to two years ago. Also, going once below 50% will harm them. There are plenty of charts that show how long batteries will last based off how deep they are discharged each night.

Would you consider opening it up, even if you had to physically cut it, and balancing the cells? At some point after days of dealing with something, no longer worth my time, they win. FWIW, I bought some individual 50 ah cells and case and busbars and BMS to build my own, and there was very...

Why not? This is a 600 volt rated wire. If not THHN, then what type wire? I would not want to use THHN as a connection to a #10 stud, or whatever the studs size is on a 280 ah cell, in a mobile build where the battery could be bouncing up and down such as a mobile build. If it were a thicker...

I’m assuming you are going 3p 2s because the two different panels have nearly matching voltages and amperage? Could be wired similar to this 2p3s battery, but adapted to 3p2s. I’m seeing you’d need a second combined box for OCP.

Also, my assumption this is for maintaining the batteries for cloudy days. If this Is for the initial charge, the IP22 is fine.

FWIW, my bank is about the same size, 2 x 8S 280 ah, a 560 ah 24 volt bank. I think nothing of charging and consistently it at .12 C, about 60 amps. I would charge it at .2C constantly with no worries. I consider my 37.5 am 24 volt charger a bit undersized to charge 560 ah 24 volt pack. I...

The battery I had installed for the house, 48 volts, has an internal class t installed at the factory. The battery is attached to a load center that has an additional circuit breaker for each battery bank. The moderate inverter is a 12 volt inverter, 2000 watts, that runs at 1000 watts...

I use a AIMS 120 VAC to 12 volt 75 amp charger. The Victron you mention tops out at 30 amps. Two 304 AH cells would take 9 hours with the 75 amp charger, and 20 hours with the 30 amp charger. Really depends on how quickly you want to charge. If you want a 240 VAC converter, you can get...

Any time ampacity demands it. The Installer used 2/0 from each 5 kWh battery to the inverter for a 48 volt system. Could be required for a 12 volt system with a moderate sized inverter.

Will the inverter take a single phase ? Mine won’t . You seem to have a decent plan.

Sounds like you could take a 30 amp or 50 amp plug to a critical load panel and use the RV instead of a generator. I think this could be more trouble than its worth. I have a 50 amp plug to the generator portion of my Home install, but don't see a situation where I would ever plug my RV in to...

Have you done the temperature compensated calculations to see how much these panels are supposed to put out? Usually this is in the spec sheet. If its 144 volts, that is probably at 25 C, and voltage should go up bu .26% per 1 C the temp goes down. A chilly day could push the panels above 150...

If you're ignoring code, as much space as you can and put some non-conductive materiel between the different busbars to avoid sparking.

If you're asking to go smaller, than that is fine, provided the equipment and wiring can handle it.

I don't think you can put 6 in one rack, but not for reasons ou mentioned; code may limit you to 20 kWh per battery. . I think UL9450A limits a single residential battery pack to 20 kWh. Each of those batteries is just short or just long of 5 kWh. So for different reasons than you ask, if the...

Yes I am afraid of that. Hopefully you’ll take care of my bills for me.

Seems you can only go 4s. The more each panel works, the lower the voltage. By adding the third string seems each panel works less, and voltage goes up. Could also be the newer string has a higher and different VOC and VMP. That happened with my newest set of renogy panels.

Don’t normally click links, but this went to a dead page

Are these affiliate links? I did not know a link could not be posted to Amazon.

You can plan on 20 lbs per 1 kWh of power field lithium, and 25 lbs for a solid portable 100 watt panel. I’ve found this to be limiting on my build.

I missed it was a 12/1200 va inverter. That is 1000 watts constant. 2 AWG will be fine.

The 4 parallel panels each need overcurrent protection If at all possible, hardwire the inverter This is the wire chart I use; a 1200 watt inverter could see 140 amps at low voltage cutoff. 2 AWG may not be enough

There’s always the discussion of same brand MC4 cables. Likely windy nation is selling stabuli 8 AWG MC4 cables or Amphonel h4 cables. Both are UL listed, but only if you plug into the same brand and not mix and match, despite them fitting. To me a better way is parallel panels to a combiner...

From my understanding no.

No link. The info I read says 1/4" gap minimum. I also talked about getting solar panels as a veranda, and the contractor says they did build those, and he did say they need to leave a gap so these would be no good for rain.

I tend to wire thicker, 4/0 for a 2000 watt inverter. The inverter will still deliver 2000w watts, even at the low voltage cutoff, so the inverter could draw 200 amps. but thit around 85% efficient, so it could pull 240 amps. For example, my RV AC pulls 1470 from the inverter, but with...