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I use this style, they are made for this: https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=729&productCat_ID=16&sortOrder=1&act=p

Here's another thread on same subject too: https://www.sailnet.com/threads/replacement-for-the-xantrex-link-1000.67157/

Here's a calculator (at bottom of article) which I like to use a lot: https://gold-coast-solar-power-solutions.com.au/solar-power/solar-panel-maximum-voltage-calculator/ Victron has a calculator on their website as well.

Do you have a picture of yours? Something like this might work (say it supports the 'Freedom Marine Series Inverter/Charger'): https://xantrex.com/products/accessories/freedom-basic-remote-panel/ Examples on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=xantrex+84-2056-01&_sacat=0

Probably or maybe didn't matter, but just for ultra paranoid measure, I made sure the port I used was set to Com1 (on the computer, it was a native motherboard comm port), and I ran the Axpert tool as (right-click) 'Run as Administrator' just for extra paranoia measure.. Again, not sure if it...

Which cable option are you using? When I tried via the micro-USB port, I could read data but error on write, when I used the other USB-to-serial cable which came with the inverter, I had same issue, could read but not write. It wasn't until I used the legacy serial (DB9 pin) serial (to RJ45)...

This guy here seems to have the same question about unbonding Neutral and Ground on a 230v EU inverter: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/which-adapter-can-be-used-to-charge-tesla-with-230v-output-only-inverter-like-spf5000es.39240/

Tesla doesn't need the neutral, I can confirm I wired a 3-wire feed (2 hots and a ground only), and Tesla 240v charging worked. It does need ground though, it has some kind of ground fault detection. The question I had above though, is that due to EU inverter, it has one as hot, one as neutral...

Oh that's true, forgot about that (the 230v EU ones are one hot and neutral). I wonder if it's possible to remove the N-G bond in it (if it has one), so it let neutral float free so the Tesla / cord doesn't see it as one conductor is shorted to ground. Check if it has some kind of N-G bond screw...

I'd probably just make sure you have the ground connected to ground rod, neutral connected how it should be, don't bond neutral to ground again, it is likely N-G bonded already inside the inverter, two bonds can create objectionable ground current, perhaps the Tesla is picking that up as a...

I look at the specs sheet and it says 208v or 230v, and hertz say 50 or 60 Hz.. so it should be fine to set it to 60 Hz (for USA). I would just use it with the cable I had, 230v to 240v is not a significant difference (for a charger). Static loads like motors and such could make a bigger...

I'm not sure how the Eatons are but I have played a lot with APC UPSs and you can log into them using the network card, and change Hz (50 or 60) and volts (to 208v, 220v, 230v, and 240v) easily.

I am assuming you're talking about the Tesla Type II charging (cable), not the Tesla wall charger (Type III).. I would think the UK cable is not functionally different than the USA cable, it is not uncommon for companies to use a single cable for global (just with different connector adapters...

Yeah back in the day I loved XP and never wanted to upgrade, got frustrated when they quit providing Windows Updates on it, and same with Win 7... By the time they end-of-life'd Win 7, I switched to Macbook Pro for personal use (except for my shop automotive diagnostic laptop)... Win 11 is...

Couldn't help but notice their state-of-the-art facility has some machine workstations running Windows XP. I wonder if they are using genuine licensed copies. (things that make ya go hmm)

Well, it depends on what your needs are. If you can get comms going with a MPPT charger, it can then it could maybe do SoC based charging instead of voltage based charging, so if you had some special requirement like not always charging batteries to like 98-100% (well into the knee of the...

If I had the opportunity (perhaps moneywise or whatever), I might look into putting both.. EG4 comm hub and Cerbo Gx or something would give one number, and the Smart Shunt can provide a confirming value.. The EG4 hub will give the BMC perspective of SoC and aggregate all the individual pack...

May want to consider looking into some in the eurotrash line for best compatibility...

Oh yeah my apologies, after reading the description again (thinking on it some more), that kit is made to work only with Hawk's Bay and Barcelona, which now I'm remembering are code names (if you will) of charge controllers they sell. So I stand corrected, those are not standalone units, but...

Also not to forget, the #1 leading cause of death is birth... I think there were only said to be around 2 people ever born here who never tasted death, as the ancient texts seem to depict.

I've set my 2 Victron charge controllers to 14.08v Absorption and 13.4v Float and doing the 10-year test now, so far it seems good. I'll report back in 8 years...

My best guess is it is a standalone detector module, which has some kind of relay controller 'dry contact', which you could integrate to your master RSD or something... You could send them an email and ask more questions about it, or maybe they could link you to the install manual for it, to...

I use Starlink today, it is great for sure... The main concern I have is about the low Earth orbit satellites, is all the space junk and the likelyhood of a Kessler Syndrome, all of the space junk depleting orbit will pose great risk to satellites of lower orbit. Not to mention the Starlink...

Yeah, for people like myself (off-grid folks), being your own power company is normal daily life. My best advice to people living in the city, and what I would do too if I still lived in the city, is just to basically build an off-grid system, cut the cord to the grid for the most part, just...

Maybe look into this link? Looks like a standalone add-on unit that does both arc-fault and ground-fault detection with shutdown control... https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=731&productCat_ID=59&sortOrder=1 I know Midnight Solar charge controllers also had an option for...

It's no trouble, and why don't you stick around and let's keep having fun and learning together? This forum has a lot of wonderful energy to it! For everyone wanting to keep learning, including me (I'm still learning everyday)...

Of course you need to make sure you have proper overcurrent protection (to protect your cables). I've had my two battery banks (LFP and SLA) bridge-connected for 2 years now and no ill side effects (I can turn on or off the bridge switch at will), it's a great way to keep all those old SLA...

People speak of the older gen MPP Solar being of better quality. Does anyone know of a way to tell which hardware is considered the earlier gen equipment? Like based on serial number or something. Mine are LV6548s...

One of the reasons people are gravitating towards the Luxpower Tek inverters now is because (similar to the SolArks) you can save on the costs of buying all the breakers/boxes, PV disconnect etc (without the extra cost of a SolArk).. Installation is simpler/cheaper in this way. Also it seemed...

Yeah, I was wondering about that, that's why I said it may have caveats hehe... I wasn't sure if when the solar comes awake then would the dry contact then start working (even when inverter off).. Don't know really. Also, a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor has a dry contact in it can could do...

Also, it looks like the dry contact ports on the 6000EX can be set for low-volt trigger, you could have it signal a large enough relay to turn off your DC loads prior to BMS low-volt disconnect. Just a thought that came to mind... Perhaps there are caveats and might not work as intended, but...

If it is recessed that deep to tell, just try sizes, and rotate back and forth lightly, to get a feel for how much slack is in the fit, find the one that has least slop. And if I think the engagement is questionable, push firmly (maintain good pressure the whole time you're applying torque) as...

I always just try each bit by itself, just put the bit into the screw head with your fingers and it should fit really tight and not wiggle side to side off axis when you get the right size bit.

We also drink too much colloidal silver...

Yeah, the SURT10000XLT input is 384v nominal...