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Gosh, I am not really good with restoring lead acid. I understand the concepts but my attempts to repair dead batteries have not been fruitful. I’ve charged AGM batteries with automotive charges and it seems just fine. The AGM prefers a little higher but I have not had any problems charging...

That’s the simple part, anything close to sidereal rate is fine. But at the end of the day (which changes continually), it needs to reverse back to face east and wait until the sun is perpendicular to the panel surface (how calculated/determined?) and then resume tracking. Not impossible but...

Um, those panels have: Open Circuit Voltage (VOC): 98.7 V If you have 2 in series directly connected to your batteries would be bad. There has to be an SCC. Have any pics?

What SCC do you have now? If your SCC cannot handle 5S voltage, just get a second SCC like a Victron, smallest that does 48V. Get the Smart type with Bluetooth. If you plan on expanding later, get a bigger one.

If it were me, i'd charge them both completely full with good long absorb. Then put them into service and see how they behave before buying something you might need. If they get out of balance, you could always charge them individually. Maybe this is a yearly task you are ok with? If its...

Conjuring @Will Prowse

Probably around 2000Wh per day. Thats 84W at 33% duty cycle (20 mins per hour).

It’s easy to test. Disconnect solar (asap!) and connect the battery. If it powers up and displays in app you are good. If it prompts for firmware updates, do them right away. Just a button press and usually less than a minute (awesomeness).

What is the "unit"? Is the battery full? Are the panels in series and partially shaded? Happen to have any pics?

200Ah / 200A = 1h 200Ah / 100A = 2h 200Ah / 50A = 4h

Hmm, i don't see why they should be the same. I have cutting board sheets between to prevent conduction between cells. I have cement board below because it is fireproof and sits on a 2x12 shelf.

Wait wut? What's the problem with sitting on cement board?

What is the Voc of your panels and how do you expect to wire them? (3S2P or 2S3P?)

What was the event that caused the fuse to blow initially? That looks like 275A and there are a few batteries connected to a bus bar that "looks" a little small for what should be a 1000A bus bar.

2S3P has a different meaning. As for what you have i'd say 2S in parallel with 2P.

I should have remembered that. Fun fact: -40C = -40F (= 233K for completeness).

Kelvin reference voltage? They're catering to the nerds if thats the case. 25C = 298K -20C = 253K -.27% x 47 deg K = 12.69%

And note that .35% was my guesstimate.

An example of how this works: Lets use an array with a Voc of 130V. And lowest temp is 0C (32F). And temp coefficient of .35% 0C is a delta of 25C. 130Voc x 25 deg C x .0035 = 11.375V rise (array becomes 141.375Voc)

Look for the temp coefficient. It is the voltage change per degree C above or below 25C (77F). Usually around .35%.

So when would you use the switch at the 12V Lynx?

The class T fuses should be right next to the battery and the cutoff switches between fuses and Lynx. I'd consider putting the cutoff switch before your 24/12 converters because you don't have a way to turn them off (or do they have their own onboard on/off switches?) Just seems odd to switch...

I agreed with others that recommend 2S2P. I will add that even 3S2P would work with just about any ~40V panel.

Looks like they have 3 series and a few models in each series. Which one are you asking about?

1000W / 28V charging = 35.7A Pretty easy choice: (as previously recommended by Mattb4) https://www.amazon.com/Victron-SmartSolar-Charge-Controller-150V/dp/B07B36X8LP/ You'll love the bluetooth.

Seems pretty standard, all the cool kids are doing it. You'll likely get better and more consistent behavior if you configure your JK as close to the new battery as it will function with your charge settings.

What are the panel Voc and Isc specs? If you have roughly 50Voc panels, 4S3P into a combiner box seems like a good setup. Assuming you were handling amps properly with 2S3P.

If thats the only thing charging your battery, then i whole heartedly agree. Hopefully you got your RV battery down to a reasonable voltage without too much damage. I'd check the water level if lead acid as that can boil off at elevated voltages.

Do yourself a favor and get a real SCC. You'll love the bluetooth: They are on crazy sale right now: https://www.amazon.com/Victron-SmartSolar-Charge-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B075NQQRPD/

Is there a charge controller between the solar panel and battery? If not, then there is nothing to prevent the battery from being overcharged. What is the Vmp of your solar panel?

Put these in the same string. Try to get all your strong ones in same string and all your weak ones together in the other.

So you are feeding the breaker panel from the inverter? Is there a main breaker in the breaker panel? Split phase? 6000W / 240Vac = 25A add 25% above on each leg to prevent nuisance trips From battery to inverter: 6000W / .85 efficiency / 40V cutoff? = 176A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGP6ZCS/ I like these a lot. I thought 100 was too many but i'm near ordering a second pack.

100Ah x 12.8V = 1280Wh The starlink alone i believe is 40W 40W x 24h = 960Wh The fridge is probably at least this much too so my gut feel is you are wildly underestimating your planned usage.

>and Amperages of Batteries Is that the amp rating of the BMS or are you confusing this with amp hours (capacity)?