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based on the first photo alone. looks like a direct short in the cells, where the blue plastic might have been damaged (vibration?) The casing below the blue plastic is basically a negative terminal. so if cells in series rub together and wear the blue plastic, you have a direct short.

active or passive balancing wouldnt save this problem. Its most likely a lose terminal. the BMS would never stop this unless it had a ton of temp sensors on every cell

just prompted me to recheck my battery and 1 terminal wasnt very well tight and the busbar was clearly hotter on that 1 terminal. I bet you had a similar issue. 1 loose terminal, lots of resistances, lots of heat, boom

1 terminal badly tighten can get really really hot. its the only possibility i can think off. I had batteries i finished building and then run 100A+ through them, and then feel the busbars, if 1 of them is clearly warmer , is usually a connection there that isnt 100% tighten.

is it because the ground is bound to the neutral on the AC out?

A little bit confused> I have one of those "all in one" 24v inverters (such as this: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61AP9YfHcmL.jpg ) and when the inverter is on. the "AC IN" ports between Ground and live and Ground and neutral show a voltage of around 80-100V. No voltage between Live...

pack burns because no BMS, The OP insist to talk about carboard and what not.

this looks more like a "why you should use a fuse"

the fact that you top balance them doesnt make them perfect. do a capacity test

anyone thought of pairing a small compatible 16s Lifepo4 battery, and then parallelling that battery to a massive DIY one?

only bought a set of litokala. All shit, some arrived at like 2.0v, swollen, missmatched, used. Also had marker numbers on it like 1 3 3 4. as if they were part of some mismatched packs that were taken apart.

all my daly's so far i just touch P- on B- and it wakes up.

no. the balance between extra drag vs production you'd find you'd need to keep the car parked in the sun for a full month to compensate for 30-60min of driving.

i would also worry with the bottom cells being crushed under the weight

single 4s2p battery with 1 bms.

problem with parallel BMS,s is that if one stops before the other, the other will take double the current after the 1st shuts down.

depending on which spec is, many hybrid inverters don't support working without battery. so you shouldnt plug AC to it without a battery first.

There's no solar panels plugged to it. When there's only batteries and the inverter is on. The "ac in" has voltage between the ground and the +/-

I'm in the UK. If its too sunny (quite rare anyway) I can just take off my black table cover off the hottub/insulation off it and reduce its effectiveness. I'm actually considering building filtration into my loop as that's the only circulation going around,

Yes. Although there are also thermostats that have 2 sensors and allow you to do that in 1. However I don't want to stop the system if the water is too hot, as these boxes are all black and sealed, if the water stops flowing, the pipes would probably melt.

Quick update. this system has actually been working "TOO WELL". water been consistently going over 40C (104F) during the day in the last sunny days. Might reverse the thermostat to actually STOP when incoming water temperature is bigger than X, instead of what is at the moment (Start when...

no1 is gonna comment how he has a nazi inverter?

My aliexpress hybrid inverter is working all good, no issues, very happy with it. I was grabbing the AC in plug to plug it in and charge the battery and surprisingly i got a light shock off the plug terminals. Grabbed my multimeter and it's registering 70v~ between positive and ground, or...

power supply is proving to be a P.O.S. :P wired them in series (8S) with the BMS, into the power supply set to 28.8V and its displaying 26.33v/0.52A, so its charging at like 14 watts :P

yeah main reason why I did put red pluses. don't want to get confused.

absolutely. even though its charging slowly at 3.33, i look at it every 5min. I wouldnt go to sleep and leave it hooked up. I even made little "+" and "-" out of eletrical red/black tape to put near the terminals so i dont do any stupid mistakes

well a eve 280ah at 3.32 (jumped 0.01V now) is technically already at 90%+ capacity, so that might be a factor too. Voltage at power supply and terminals on the battery is the exact same. I have a hybrid inverter capable of AC charging at up to 60A or 80A (not sure now), but was aiming at only...

so in short when i set the power supply to 3.6 and plug it to a 3.31 cell and the power supply display shows 3.33 1.5A, it is charging it right? (at roughly 5w~ in this case) I might wire the cells in 8S (24V) with the BMS and charge them series at ~28V first as I will get all the cells...

atm I'm using a 1 footlong 12Awg cable, its a cheap Chinese one, thats probably the issue (photo below) all the videos i see on top balancing (like here: ) the moment the supply is plugged to the battery, for example set to 3.6, the value stays on 3.6 on the display, on mine, the moment the...

tried higher gauge cables and have the same issue. my problem is not the 1.5A, these power supplied dont shoot a lot of amps at low voltage. what i think is not right is the voltage not moving when i try to adjust while connected/on. it just displays the battery voltage. even if i turn the...

hey guys, using a dc power supply (small 30v10A one) to top my lf280Ah and im a bit confused. I've used this power supply on little diy projects before, always worked fine. on its own the voltage is spot on, etc. now the issue i have. I got eve 280ah cells all hooked in parallel. set the dc...

Had my first trial run today. Only 18C/65F outside. Hottub Water was at 28c/82f, ran it for 2 hours, water gone up to 30C/86F. Looking promising for my firs ttry, considering its a reasonable mild early spring day in the UK

because of the lifepo4 being so linear, I'm actually setting up my voltimeters (that show capacity in a linear way) as 0% on 25.5V and 100% on 26.8V. even though that technically is 20 to 90%. because if i set it as 20v to 29.2v the battery would display "50-60%" across 90% of its capacity. I...

I bought stuff new, so spent about 200 bucks total. from what i've seen online, considering the sun isnt that hot here in the uk, this thing should at least half my electricity usage in the summer. Considering the tub can use up to 60-70 a month in the summer, this should pay itself in...