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I connect to the input of the ArgoFET so that I do not need to worry about the voltage sensing being affected by the ArgoFET or any BMS dropout. The only downside I can see to this arrangement is that I might get a bit lower voltage than desired at the battery due to voltage drop in the cable...

with a 2p setup with 320Ah cells your capacity would be 640Ah I charge to 13.8v and set my OVP to 3.65v and UVP to 3.1v. I charge directly from a 250A externally regulated alternator that has the output limited to 190Ah and temperature-controlled limiting. I do not use an alternator protection...

What model of JBD do you have that has active balancing? Every JBD that I am aware of has passive balancing in the range of 50 to 150ma which does not do much.

Sorry, I will not be near the battery until April.

My JK is the B2A8S20P and I have never seen the FET temperature more than a 10ºC above ambient when charging with 120A which is my highest current. I have plans to add a much larger alternator to my boat which will let me charge at 190A and will be monitoring the FET temp to see how it does.

If you bought it new you should be fine. The problem was only with the units sold in the first few months. I bought mine a week after Nami emailed me to tell me that they were available because I was on the wait list. As they say, good things come to those who wait!

Did you allow it to communicate with the precise gps setting? it will not work otherwise.

I am partial to the JK and it is 200A in and out. Mine has kept my cells within 5mv balance since the first charge. You can now get one in a week from the Docan US warehouse.

www.docanpower.com works for me. They have 280K for $110 and 304 for $123 in stock at US warehouse. I also see that they are now stocking the JK BMS's.

I noticed the same thing here in the US. In May of 2021 I purchased EVE 280K cells from the Docan Houston warehouse for $149 each and they are now listed for $110.

I ended up not worrying about it. I have the probes mounted to the first and second cell which as far as they will reach but they never show more than a few degrees above room temp.

It is true that lead start and LFP house works very well together and that is the current system I have. My high-output externally regulated alternator goes to an ArgoFET battery isolator which sends power to both battery banks. The only problem with this system is that when cruising, I often...

I already have the specialized alternator with external regulator which has all of the protection and works fine. I have looked at the Dakota Lith dual purpose batteries but given that they are a black box there is no way to tell if the cells are any different or it is just the BMS. My thought...

I have a simular post on a boating forum and several have expressed a concern that cells in the 50Ah - 100Ah range cannot put out enough amps to start a small diesel engine. This engine is currently starting fine with a 14-year-old group 30 AGM with a 950CCA rating. Would that be too much...

That just does not work in my cruising grounds. I am in the Salish Sea and have 500-nm of inland water with thousands of miles of channels to play in. It is often flat calm which means that the sailboat needs to cover many miles in a day under power when the wind is not blowing. I would like...

On my sailboat, the in-rush current for the starter on the diesel engine far exceeds the discharge capacity of most BMS's, but the cells can handle the current without problem. I have been thinking that I could build a pack with small cells [50Ah to100Ah] with a BMS and a High output normally...

Yep. He really showed how to crush your opponent! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I would double check the sence wires. Do you have the last wire on the plug and the 4th red wire both connected to the most positive cell?

Now we understand why Newsom has spent so much time in China.

I agree it has a high and low speed setting but would be surprised if it did not have a mechanical governor for that function like every other small Honda Tecumseh, Briggs or Yamaha motor out there.

If I had a 300W invertor with 120A charger I would do the same, but I do not have the room in my boat for such a big invertor and have no need for that much AC. My biggest AC load other than my two 30A chargers is the Shark vacuum which runs fine on a 400W modified sine invertor.

I do not have a Honda. Mine is from Costco. From the way that it runs, It appears to not have a load sensing governor. It has a high-speed setting where the power (throttle) adjusts to maintain rpms at different loads. It also has a low-speed setting. That is how a mechacical governor works.

I am pretty sure that they do have a mechanical governor. A DC alternator is not speed dependent so the RPMs only mater as to how much power is porduced. It would only need to make more voltage than my battery bank and use a MPPT charge controller to control the charging voltage. 130vDC is...

This is one of the reasons that I would not get a battery without a Bluetooth BMS or a serviceable case. It sounds like your battery it badly out of balance but without knowing with the actual cell voltages are we are just guessing. As a worst-case scenario, if it were my battery and it got to...

What is your max charge current that the BMS will allow and are you hitting it with the combination of charger and solar?

I already have gasoline on the boat because the outboard is gas powered and I currently use one of the generators to power my two 30A Victron chargers. I am just looking at options. As for CO, I tie the generator into the inflatable and run the power cord into the mothership which removes all...

That helps. I could not find anything that talked about the voltage of the motor driven alternator. 200v is pretty hot.

Not sure it would be no benifit. The DC alternator is something greater than 2000w which is 158A @ 13v. That is way more than I can do with my 60A 120v chargers. I figure that I could connect it with 2/0 welding leads. If I decide that I do not want to go that high, I could also convert my...

It has a 12v output, but it is only about 8A so not useful in recharging a 560Ah battery.

They are not actually Honda's, so I am not speaking sacrilege. :LOL: I got them from Costco for $475 each. The pro of this idea is that it would already have a case, engine, tank and alternator. I could possibly create enough room by removing the invertor to house the external regulator if...

The PWM control to the field is controlling the magnetic field which is not an instantaneous change. More of growth and decay so if you look at the voltage on an oscilloscope it will have a reasonably smooth voltage. Are your batteries sealed case with or without Bluetooth or DIY? It sounds...

1. It is recommended that the shunt wires and to a lesser degree the sense wires be twisted pairs especially on long runs. 2. That is what I figured. 3. You can change the temp settings in the app so that is easy to get around. The regulator does not "control voltage". It controls how much...

The inverter / generator like a Honda EU200i has a gas engine that turns a DC alternator which creates DC power. It then runs that power through an invertor to produce 120vAC. I have two of these generators, one of which is only use on my boat to charge by batteries through the Victron shore...

1. were the shunt extension wires a twisted pair or shielded wire with a ground on one end? That length you can get a big emf error. 2. You do not really need rpm and it does not need to be accurate any way. that is mainly there so that you can depower the alternator on small engines so that...