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State of charge is interesting. What is the actual voltage of each battery? Use a separate voltmeter. Have the batteries been through a charge/discharge cycle?

THHN will be very stiff. Will still take a lug and connect. Going to be an effort to get the wire bent to avoid stress on the component terminals.

I use a Meanwell NPB-450-12 as my generator is small and mostly charged with solar. There is a larger 1700 version. I don't think even 100 amps would hurt those batteries one bit.

My electrician just pulled #2 NM-B across my attic for a sub panel. It could take your arm off.

How will load dump work if the water is hot? Need two thermostat settings. May need a separate pre heat water heater to be left cold and only power with 120v. Existing can stay at 240. Space could be an issue.

Posts? There is a bar to bolt the lug to. I have an old discontinued Go Power 2000w sine wave inverter. But any brand will connect with 2/0. Quality 2/0 marine wire is good for at least 280 amps and a 2000w inverter will pull 170-190 amps as it approaches peak rated power. I installed 4/0...

2/0 feeds a 2000 watt inverter nicely on 12v. Probably go 4000w on 24 volts.

May as well get the 1288 for 30a rating

The bus bar gets more convenient as more circuits are added for other loads and charging. Eventually the terminals fill up. For that set up no bus is needed. Can be easily added in the future if needed.

Yes!

Put your volt meter across the fuse and see what it reads. Start at the wires and work your way in to direct on the fuse and see if anything jumps. This is to verify all connections are tight.

1/0 to #2 pin connector - amazon

I have 5' of 4/0 on a 2000w inverter and it is always cool. Even at 170 amps. Today I would go 2/0 unless the connection is more than 6'. #6 on the controller is fine. Still should have a fuse on the battery side of the wire...

If the battery is full and very little power is flowing the controller has already adjusted to restrict power to near zero. The solar power is not moving anywhere. As for disconnected.... my controller will not power up until the battery is connected. Manual is very specific to connect to...

Depends on the controller. Some have very specific warning. I believe the issue is at higher current flowing through an MPPT and the controller may not have time to adjust for a battery disconnect. Will it automatically always destroy the controller, NO. If the batteries are floating there...

Just for the shower? Consider a replacement shower valve where the numeric temperature can be selected.

Yes automotive cables are intended to run a start motor for 1 to 20 seconds. Not the continuous power of a GC. At least look for the #2 cables instead of the standard #4. Automotive equipment uses SAE wire with less copper than AWG. Otherwise get a crimper, lugs and some wire to do it right.

The existing alternator has limits. The belt drive has limits too. I would leave the chassis system as configured. A 24-48 converter may help but I would be concerned about depleting the chassis system and as said it is not really enough power to resolve much. I think the larger battery that...

They do! This is a FISKER not a FISKARS

Set the charge voltage to 14.8 and the minimum s/b 12.0 - 12.1 volts. Do this for 2 to 4 weeks then drop back to 14.4 volts. To equalize this would be closer to 15.5 volts for an hour. Have you checked the water level? Also that absorption time to hold charging voltage s/b 90 - 120 minutes...

Very cool and still Fisker could soon be an orphan. I am in close to the same boat with my I-Pace as Jaguar is stopping production of all cars for a new high end EV line up.

Much easier to cut 3000w of AC power than the 3000w DC feeding the inverter. Consider a voltage driven relay board to control a power relay with a 24vdc coil. Quick search: voltage controlled relay The load will be the relay coil. Relay 30amp vac contacts, 24vdc coil

OK so if the person does the wrong thing and back feeds the house I would think he has just powered up all the homes on his local transformer. Would not the generator overload? Ok maybe 100 led lights would work but then people start turning stuff on when a light comes on.

1000w is generally plenty for most home fridges. Most have 1500w - 2000w surge performance when needed. Don't skimp on the DC connection that may limit the surge performance. I have and recommend Go Power inverters but any of the above are good too. Get sine wave.

For a small but sensitive load like this sometimes it is easier to run from inverter full time. Let the generator or utility power charge the battery while inverting. No switching. Especially frustrating with a satellite box that has to rescan for channels for 10 minutes to restart a movie.

Easy to add later if an issue develops. Not a permanent skip feature on a large component.

The issue with out of balance is that a battery can shut down for over/under volt protection. An unattended system may create other problems if it shuts power off unexpectedly. When that deep freezer is unknowingly off line for a week it will be a mess. This is the type of thinking that needs...

Depends on how hard the charging voltage will be pressed. If charging to max voltage the balancer becomes more important. If charging somewhat less than max it is easier to monitor any imbalance and manually adjust as needed. For wheelchair use it is less important as any issue will be...

For best look drill and seal under the panel.

Are there no plumbing or air vents through the roof? Google shows lots of boots, flashing and jacks to allow conduit through the metal roof. Over the edge is a bad look to me.

Wow this is an old thread. I just want to add this is good reason to keep the charging voltage on the lower side and to have at least two batteries in parallel.

The old reboot trick is still valid

In the manual from the Victron website. pg 10-11 iirc.

40 amps into 4320 = 108 hours or 5 days. Charge all four assembled batteries at the same time if they are ready. Although if you assemble one battery every day or three it is perfectly fine to charge them individually as you go.

2000w inverter will easily run a small air conditioner. I would stick with 12 volts. Be careful with the DC-DC chargers as the input amps can easily be 50% greater than the output amps. I would be closer to 20 amp rated output with a stock 120a alternator. May need a utility connection or a...