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If you went over the vent then you could probably fit a single large residential panel.

Either would work fine. I'm using 3x amperetime 100ah 12v batteries in series which isn't ideal because they get out of balance, but it works!

Agreed he needs to test more batteries 😂

Andy got 330ah out of the MB30 so the 31 should have even more capacity.

Window unit

My charger is not connected to the panel at all. The input is connected to the shore power side of the transfer switch and the output goes directly to the battery bank (fused of course).

I have a setup similar to your diagram but use an automatic transfer switch. I wired the converter to the shore power input side of the transfer switch so it only comes on while connected to shore power.

It's pretty similar in size to the Epoch 300ah. Kepworth says they are Gotion cells and JBD 200 amp BMS.

This battery is a lot larger than the 100ah mini. The dimensions are 15" long, 7.5" wide and 9.65" tall. I kepworth told me they are using prismatic cells. The battery box dimensions are similar to the DIY box for the 280/300ah cells.

I emailed kepworth and they said that for two they would be $495/each shipped and that they had them in stock in the US. I replied asking for more details like cell type/brand and what kind of BMS it has but I haven't received a response to that question yet. Super tempting at this point but...

Would really love to see a tear-down review of this one.

Rich solar sells a slim 100W. You could just string a bunch of those together. https://richsolar.com/products/mega-100-slim-solar-panel

I have hightech solar 200W panels that are 60"x26". Now they are up to 215W https://hightecsolar.com/products/

Related?

I would test your batteries with your expected loads before spending a lot of $ changing them out. Hobotech did a pretty thorough test of that battery and was able to sustain 150ah discharge for 5 minutes. In theory to support 3000W each battery needs to support 125A which will probably be fine.

What loads are you using that need true 3000W continuous?

Just something to consider: EFI can have its drawbacks too. More complexity = more stuff to go wrong. Fuel pump, various sensors for the EFI system, injector, etc. What are the availability of those parts if something goes wrong in 5-10 years? Carburetors are very simple and easy to fix even far...

If you only need 1500W just connect a cheap inverter to your car battery.

The SOK is more compact if that's important.

Found a test document for the full system those batteries are designed to go in... 1088 volts nominal! https://www.murrumbidgee.nsw.gov.au/files/Battery-Test-Report_PAN-92189.pdf

From Amazon: "Please contact the seller directly for warranty information for this product. You may also be able to find warranty information on the manufacturer’s website". I couldn't find a website for NewtiPower.

Victron has an IP65 rated smart shunt. https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-SmartShunt-IP65-EN.pdf