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Those are very interesting and useful in some applications, but I'm afraid they are too slow and with a braking capacity at only 5000amp @ 32vdc not enough for lifepo4

I left for the day yesterday and when I came back they were all at 3.37V, so the BMS did it's thing. Gave it a bit more charge at 28V, but in less than 1h it was getting below 1A and the same cell was lower then the other, again left them to balance and this morning they are all a 3.38V. today...

I've had the cells in storage for the last 6 months, all disconnected in the box they came. Unfortunately the camper project got delayed quite a bit. I've connected them to the BMS to do a cycle since it's been 6 months, they were all stores at 3.29V and balanced when I connect everything...

How can we be sure these are proper fuses? It looks legit from the photo of the box... Did anyone test these? I'm all for saving money whenever possible, but I'm not sure it's enough of a saving to make it worth risking the device that will protect from a short.

Bussman or Eaton are just brands, so a 180LET has the exact specs from both brands? The 180LET from Farnell Italy has an extended order time, I found it available from rs-online branded Aeton, for 24 euro, but the data sheet doesn't have time-current graphs. If it's good I'll get a couple, so I...

Got it thanks. Every load will have it's breaker or fuse to protect wires, the main battery fuse is there to basically protect from a catastrophic short, that's why we need t-class or HRC fuses that can break tens of thousands of amps. So if it's oversized means it will only break in a short...

Thanks. That means the bigger the fuse, the less power wasted? The problem is that they get expensive, big and heavy as amps go up of course. Do you know which series is the most "efficient" in this aspect? LMT, LET, EET ?!

I'm interested to know more about this topic, t-class don't have much specs in general compared to the other HRC fuses from bussmann etc. I'm planning to get a LET 180A, which has a 21W stated power loss. Is that considered at the max continuous 180A? What power loss can I expect at 50% draw and...

Yes, I'll figure out a way to block the rotation with a Natel bracket once I have it mounted on the enclosure. I'll post an update

Here is my setup with the Blue Sea 1+2 switch (model 6007, link to website): This is the official wiring diagram. Let me know if you find anything wrong before I wire everything and test it with the battery. I plan to use this as a main battery switch since I experienced some sparks when...

I think I have one of those I bought for future use on the JK BMS, I'll give it a try. Can you tell us the wiring order you used? Still using the mini-USB provided from the tester side?

I've always had the PC with all of the power settings turned off and checked them as well, but still bad problems. Now that you mention the cable that could be the issue. I haven't though of that. Let me know how it goes if you try a different one. I agree, the software is rubbish, but I would...

I don't think so. The BMS terminals are soldered to the same strip on the PCB, so it's already bridged. I'm planning a very similar setup but I don't have a wide enough copper bar, so I'll probably do as OP. But to be honest I think using just one of the terminals is probably fine if the...

No, I got a partial refund from the seller and stopped using it since it was unreliable. I guess with this kind of more complex pieces of Chinese hardware quality control is an issues and it's all about luck.

That's great, thank you for the time you dedicate to create and update this free resource! Is the layout the same as the 1+2 switch?

I've searched a lot, most stuff is cheap Chinese which might work for many people but not advised for a proper system. The blue sea is the only brand one I found, mostly on marine online sellers and amazon. Even the victron switch is difficult to find, which is weird because they are from...

Great, that's very similar to what I had in mind, only with one pack of 8S instead of tow. Dlad to know busbars work to connect the switch directly.

Thanks for the quick reply. I've read previous posts and I was also thinking of that issue. It's not a full proof switch. Kind of like the pre-charge temporary button. But if we draw a circle with an arrow in the right direction on the switch or outside of it maybe it's better. Do you have any...

I'm resuming this post because I'd like to build something similar, but I can't find the Perko and Mariner in Europe, and shipping costs from the US are too expensive. The Blue Seas 1+2 version is currently on sale on amazon for 40euro, so I was thinking of getting that. @chrisski di you end up...

It's for a mobile application, he talked about it before. I don't think it's a problem since the cells are compressed with the enclosure the rods will vibrate the same as the cells, so no rubbing in theory. Plus he has dampening mounts on the whole enclousure which reduces at least some of it.

Looks very well designed and made. What's the total weight of the enclousure? And what kind of 3D printed plastic is used?

Those are important as well, and I'm going to use it, but I wanted to know how the cells are supported on the bottom and the single rod is great idea

Oh, interesting, so one of the bottom rods is not on the side but actually below. Really clever and makes perfect sense now. Thanks!

Hi @S Davis. I have a further question: Do you have anything supporting the cells on the bottom of the compression rig? Or are they directly resting on what looks like an aluminum plate in the photo? I really like your setup, and I'm trying to design something similar in my build. As that's a...

I'm resuming this old post because I have a further question: Do you have anything supporting the cells on the bottom of the compression rig? Or are they directly resting on what looks like an aluminum plate in the photo? I really like your setup, we discussed it on a different thread as well...

@S Davis awesome setup, you've shown me a couple of those photos on another thread, and I got the idea of the dampers from you. I'm also interested in knowing where to source those. My system is 24V and I have a single BMS so I was thinking of packaging everything together, in 2 rows of 4...

This is a very interesting and controversial topic. I didn't read the entire thread but I think I agree with most stuff and something I wasn't thinking about but definitely makes sense is this: So my 8S pack will definitely have a 4x2 configuration instead of an 8x1. I think everyone is here...

Precisely what I'm planning to do for my camper. Still much cheaper to have a backup BMS than buy a built-in battery. IMO the cells are just chemistry, if they test fine they are unlikely to have significant damage, they can only degrade slowly over time and use, but a BMS is much more prone to...

Thanks for the advice. After looking up legal stuff I learned that here in Italy it's still not possible to do a DIY grid-tied system, only an off-grid one. Recently new legislation came in with some simplification and I thought it was finally possible, but turns out it's only made to shorten...

Thank you very much for the thorough explanation. I have some material to go throw now. Microinverters are definitely the future as that's going to be the most convenient solution for all of those reasons. When you talk about AC batteries, do you mean batteries with a built-in inverter? Or is...

Hello, I have a pretty good understanding of off-grid systems as I'm building one for a camper and have been researching for a long time. Now my parents are considering getting a PV system and I wanted to explore a few options. I'm based in Italy, so many things could be different from the US...

I agree with that. But depending on the use you're getting from the battery, I would get a spare no matter if it was damaged or not. If it's a critical source of electricity and the BMS suddenly stops working you don't want to wait a month for a new one to arrive, but heaving a spare, already...

I don't think any of these are made to be switched under heavy load. They are not breakers, but battery disconnect. The purpose is you have a battery that can be switched off when not in use for long periods or for maintenance. Al least this is how I understood. A breaker would be better I...

I like your thinking, makes perfect sense. The battery I'm currently building is for a truck camper, it won't have a lot of switching as I plan on using it for very long trips at a time, but it will definitely see some abuse in terms of vibration, temperature and humidity changes. I'll go with...

Hello, I want to build a battery switch with precharge for my 24V 280ah battery. The recommended switch in the guide, https://diysolarforum.com/resources/inverter-disconnect-switch-with-precharge.60/, are not available in Italy, with shipping and taxes from the US they will be probably around...