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Not the best way to be trying to load test. Use cables with lugs you can bolt to the battery terminals.

No, I think it's done in the app.

I would at this point. Might try a factory reset first just for the heck of it.

MPPT current is never going to be more than directly measuring current out of the panel outputs with an amp meter. And for the purposes of testing used (or new) panels, this works just fine.

While he did not say what brand, he did say he has a soft start.

And also just got all of your personal data off your phone. ;)

I've used those before and had zero issues. The only thing is I had to reverse inputs to get the results I desired. I wanted it to fall back to the grid when my inverter was down.

Measuring current directly across a panel output is going to tell you the max current the panel can output (assuming you are doing this in full sun). Perfectly valid way to test used panels.

What are you using to charge it? Perhaps the charger is what is cutting off too soon. Or are you saying it actually shows the charge MOS opening? If so, then it should be giving you a fault in the status area.

What do your cell voltages read when charging stops?

You have the sum high voltage set to 13.8v which IMO is a bit low (I have mine at 14.4v). And the Daly BMB SOC needs to be manually "reset" too every once in a while to 100% because it is not super accurate (especially if bluetooth is set to stay on a long time).

They seem a little smaller than a typical 100w panel. Perhaps their rating is based off of the bifacial aspect.

Yes. Also once the battery is fully charged, you may have to manually reset the Daly SOC to 100%

While there may be cheaper ones, I really like the Vestwood for about $209.00. Has Bluetooth and low temp cutoff.

Sort of a contradictory statement, no?

Its fine as long as you stay within the current limits of the plug/cables.

Huh? You do realize there are procedure manuals that are put out by the manufacturers. Do you think the techs can do whatever they want because they read a random post on the internet that said to do something? Exactly the reason I said to put it over terminals and not on the contact surfaces.

FWIW, for a while I worked at a company that did fire suppression systems for large server rooms. The systems were always wired up so that it took 2 detectors going into alarm before it would do a power shutdown or release the extinguishing agent. Always scary going to a call where one was...

Hardly a scientific test or proof. But whatever, it does not matter to me (except I believe it would do more harm than actual good in same cases) I wonder why in all of my years in the military working on fighter jet electronics, we never put anything on the connector pins of the "boxes". Hmm....

Going with the theory that it fills "voids", lets assume one of your connectors has a concave surface. You now trap an insulator in that void and as you try to tighten the terminal the hydraulic force of the "insulator" prevents you from getting it to flatten out more as you tighten. Yes, an...

"The product has an efficiency of 90 Watts peak per square meter" As opposed to aprox 200 Watts per square meter (facing the sun) of "normal" panels.

Just a FWIW in case anyone else comes across this error and finds this thread. HQST finally got back to me and they claimed error 13 means reverse PV input. Now I know the input was not reversed because it had been up and running before it happened. However, I think I may know what might have...

What’s up with people here having mc4 connectors “crumbling”? (Second thread in a few days mentioning that) I have Renogy panels that are over 15 years old and some that are a year old, and never had a connector break in half, let alone “crumble”. I can’t speak for their batteries, but I have...

I agree. Putting the grease or whatever on top of a mated connection, I can see (and have done), but I would never put it on the actual mating surfaces. There are conducive substances made for that.

Not sure which model you are looking at, but the one I have that I mentioned above (Midea MAW06R1CWT 6000BTU) definitely does.

The FAQ is vague on a lot of things. I only pay 9-11 cents per KWh where I am. I bet they charge more. Sounds like a scheme to just get you on their rate plan.

Do you have the grommet/holder on backwards? Post a picture with the cap off.

Got a link, because I'm not buying that is possible.

A little differential in outside and inside air pressure, and it will suck air in. 5 feet or 50 feet.

Is that not a dryer vent right there?

I would be more concerned about that dryer vent than it somehow heating up the gas meter 8 feet away. If the gas meter was such a big concern, I would just do something like this, and angle 45 degees away. I have this drop on mine, just so that I can remote start (test) it for a few minutes...

Did you give it enough time for any compressor delay? But I agree not all of them will work. The old one I had in there did, but that is because it had manual knobs. When i decided to change it out, I specifically looked for one (digital) that would. On a side note, in my trailer, I have a...

My Midea does. That is one of the reasons I got it. I have my inverter set on a timer. When the inverter turns on, the AC comes on. The AC has a compressor delay, so the inverter comes up to speed well before the compressor kicks it. The AC also remembers the last temperature setting even if...

Anyone with a HQST MPPT ever see this error (13)? It's not listed in the manual, and a Google search came up empty. I'm not sure what exactly triggered it, I was installing a new panel cut-off switch and had just disconnected one of the PV lines when I noticed it. May have already been up...

Just heavy clouds, because it can drop out before it even starts actually raining. Perhaps also due to the number of sats in my area. Because when I first got it, there were only 3 at any given time. I have not looked recently.