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Do a little research into those particular BP 4175B panel. They were pretty much the reason BP went out of business in the PV world. They spent billions replacing their systems under warranty due to faulty J-box design. If there's any way to do an extended load test this may show the production...

Aside from the time it takes to top balance the cells a 16 cell, 48 volt battery, it takes me a couple hours to assemble. Granted, I've built a few batteries in the last couple years but I have to say, your remarks are only going to dissuade people from doing the DIY approach and they aren't...

And of course it's stainless steel which magnets won't work on.

Look familiar?

Seems a 48 volt AIO and a single 48volt rack mount battery would allow easy expansion and keep you in that buy once, cry once mode

If this flare becomes problematic, I'm sur we'll hear all about it right here after it's over.

Electronics? if so then Yes. Anybody else?

2 panels in parallel into each of the MPPT's

Does this affect off-gridders as well?

Explodey, Funny word. Must be a technical term. Anyway, as to BMS's, My main house battery runs a daly 250 amp, "dumb" version. It seems to be working fine as I haven't had any issues so far 2 1/2 years in service now. We do get a lot of lightning down here in the summer and so far, so good...

Was that the name of your boat? :oops:

Of course they are. Hopefully the inverter holds fault data such as excess voltage or a polarity issue upon connection.

Has installer error been ruled out yet?

2 volt batteries are generally high amp hour rated for building larger banks with minimal parallel strings. Yes, series wire 6 at a time for 12 volts nominal. You have gotten plenty of good info from others here so no need to cloud the waters with more of the same.

79 - 81% typical all spring long. no cooling or heating loads yet. Likely lower as it heats up.

It just seems to me that Claims adjusters are looking for ANY reason to deny paying. They aren't there to help the claimant. they are to keep their stockholders happy.

And, hopefully, good enough for Insurance Inspectors.

Which is why the QOU only for 48 volt systems which often max out in the high 50's and even higher.

Only the QOU breakers are rated for 48 volt service. Other QO breakers' 12, 24 volt only.

8 strings of lead acid batteries will be impossible to maintain balanced charging/load, Read up on this link regarding battery wiring. You might also look into 2 volt batteries if you need that large of a 12 volt battery. http://www.fullriver.com/product/DC1150-2.html...

They have a long and admirable history Here's an interesting writeup about their history. https://www.midnitesolar.com/pages/frontPage/nwHistory/history.php

I know nothing about power stations but as to what I believe to be the best MFG., I am biased but not brainwashed. Answer, Midnite Solar.

"What do you call 4 Mexicans in a leaky boat?" Quatro sinko.

Yes, you did get brainwashed. Top tier but not THE best

Provided you can series/parallel wire those batteries, I would recommend a good set of bus bars. Connect each 24 vdc pair to the busbar as well as the inverter. Keep the battery to bus bar cables the same length on each pair of batteries.

Simplifying matters a little, you can get some solar string lights from Costco, Home Depot, Harbor freight and others that work great.

So, it will work, and, except for efficiency losses, won't cost you. Good to know. I wouldn't expect it to make power, just transform it.

What about running an autotransformer between the 120vac source and the L1/L2 input?

I've found that your BMS needs load and charging source connected to come to life. Your SCC needs to see the battery to wake up as well. Not sure this is the best approach but if you jump the battery Neg. across to the SCC it wakes up and the system all comes to life.

But, did you stay in a Holiday Inn last night??

Not recommended to keep LFP at 100% as a standby battery. That's the reason they are stored and shipped at _+/- 40%.

They're older Kyocera off-grid panels. The Kyocera "GT" (grid tie) panels have sealed diode boxes and MC-4 leads for series wiring.

Because they have junction boxes they can be parallel wired from box to box to box to box and the output comes out of the last box.

The only glitch in that setup would be if the trailer roof isn't large enough to line them up that way (I'm picturing all four panels in portrait fashion. I'll find out in a day or two.

Thanks! I'll just have him come off the one end panel. It's a different wiring method but being that the J boxes are on the panels it seems the most straightforward way to go.