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You can set it up to swap to utility based on soc and inverter shutdown based on soc.

Solar assistant does all that other than inverter firmware updates, it uses grafana but can also broadcast MQTT.

This is normal if you're not getting them fully charged, what's the history of these batteries did you just set them up? If so I recommend charging to 54v then checking individual cell voltages. You can do this on the screen on the front of the batteries. Keep raising the charge voltage until...

They pmd me but I didn't pursue it.

Nothing to complain about this morning, voltage jumped pretty quick.

Yes, no shading but they're south facing at around 18 degrees for string 2 and 30 something degrees for string 1. So they're not getting very direct sun that time of day. No this isn't meeting my threshold of wanting to mess with a ticket yet, will hopefully eventually be resolved with...

Yeah as long as it's up by 8:30-9 which is generally when my big loads start. That would be a real problem if it did it all day. It's the intermittent clouds that I think trigger it. If it was super cloudy all day I imagine it could get stuck. I've only had it running for a couple weeks and...

Flipped breakers this morning.

Updated to 79.70 a couple days ago. Seems to be the same. Here's this morning. I have noticed clear mornings are the worst, clouds seem to trigger it to sweep so it doesn't get stuck for so long. It did fix itself this morning.

The 5/5 update? 79.67 and 61.12 if I'm reading the display correctly.

Exact same issue with the 6500. Here's the last two mornings. Yesterday it sorted itself out automatically, today I went out and switched the breakers to get it to reset and start producing as it had been stuck for an extended period of time. Nominal OCV for the strings is 424v Looks like...

Looks like the 5 watts was just inverter idle draw when I had it on grid mode?‍♂️ At least it seems to be balancing one way or another now.

I don't think that's correct, consider 2 amps = 110 watts at 55v. Those watts should be evenly distributed over every cell in the bank. 110/96=1.14 watts per cell. The balancer appears to discharge five watts per cell. Should have been a net drain on the cells that were being balanced of...

It's been a little over an hour and this is the progress it's made.

Remember it was applying two amps to the entire battery bank of 96 cells, so if it was discharging 0.1 amps on the peak cells they should have been dropping (right?) even with the two amps of charging because those two amps were distributed across the entire bank, but they weren't they were...

Well I certainly do not know what is going on inside this thing but I didn't seem to get any balancing until it had no input or output.

So in the manual when it says that cell balancing is done automatically at all times what they meant to say was it's only done when you're not using the battery and it's fully charged... That would have been nice to know.

Ok, so I think I figured it out, again, hopefully for real this time. I turned float down and it's no longer applying the 2 amps and after a few minutes the batteries started discharging .1 amps each and dropping that top cell. So they apparently won't enter balance mode if they're not in...

In the last 30 minutes 0 charging has been done according to solar assistant and in fact there's been an occasional discharge. The high cell has actually gone up in voltage... I'm seeing zero evidence of balancing. ? Edit: Under battery current it actually says 2 amps going to the batteries...

Thank you for your help everyone, does anyone know what the cutoff is for the BMS to start balancing? I've heard above 3.4 or 3.45?

Okay, if I set bulk and float to 54.2 then that most problematic cell gets to 3.679 Pretty close to the ol 3.65. I will try leaving it like that for a day and see what happens and if it starts improving instead of getting worse I'll start upping the voltage.

My understanding is they recommend charging to 55.5 which is what I did the first day. Which is 3.46 per cell. The BMS charged to 56 which would be 3.5. 3.9 is just the safety threshold to prevent damage, at least I hope it prevented damage.

Yes it cuts off at 3.9

I have a rack of six 48 volt EG4 LLV1 batteries that I've just started using even though I purchased them almost a year ago. I just got my solar actually set up and charge them fully for the first time. I'm using an EG4 6500 inverter. 4/27 charged with USE settings to 55.5V with about 16 amps...

I got a full rack of batteries and a 12K growatt from you guys, the internal growatt battery charger threw sparks after about 30 seconds of use and I wasn't happy with how it handles neutral bonding so I bought 2 6500s. BOTH of them are doing this clicking noise in bypass mode (batteries in USE...

Now that it always uses common neutral can you just splice input/output neutral at the inverter now with one of these or do you still need separate neutral conductors back to the panel?

Well, screw it I'm getting a couple of those I guess. Hope their "software fix" is above board and safe for the hardware.

Assuming I have no AC inputs I run only an invert mode I bond neutral after the inverter and never mix neutrals with grid I should be okay to share the ground though right.

I don't think it'll run without a battery connection, would like to hear if it does.

Here's a page from the sigineer manual where it says to never connect input/output neutrals.

I can tell you with the sigineer version of this hardware it specifically says never to connect grid and output neutrals. (To be clear sigineer like this one doesn't have an input neutral port). As for the question I asked earlier I just answered it myself. I have a 12k growatt (same base...

Could you bond the panel, apply load, then check for current on ground between the inverter and the panel?

I just recently set one up with the DC-DC supply and I could swear it said on the adaptor it was rated up to 70 something volts, weird. Edit: it's actually 11-60v

Well I do, but I think my workaround using the battery charger will solve them. The battery charger should only be using the two input AC connections and the DC connections there isn't really anything to screw up, also it works for 20-30 seconds before sparks start flying which to me indicates...

Thought I'd mention I thought of a possible workaround to avoid swapping neutrals. I haven't implemented it yet. You can leave it in invert mode all the time and bond neutral in your panel downstream of the inverter. Set the shutdown voltage to be higher than the transfer voltage to avoid...