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I know, it’s only temporary. My AC panels are on my house. The entire rest of the system is in a detached garage including the DC panels. I’m going to run the wiring directly over to the Gen port on the Sol Ark I just haven’t been able to do it yet.

Awesome. I know the force gen works and my generator will jog as appropriate. I made the adjustment as shown below. I’m assuming the Gen charge will ONLY apply if grid is not present as OP and I both intend. Thanks for the info

Did you ever figure this problem out? I had the EXACT same situation yesterday. No Grid power, Batteries hit SOC cutoff (30% in my case), and Sol-Ark did NOT start the generator.

Ok so if anyone else stumbles across this thread- Sol-Ark got back to me and walked me through everything. I’m blown away by the service. Attached is the wiring schematic that I need EXCEPT it doesn’t show the AC coupling going to the Gen lugs on the Sol-Ark but that’s in fact how I can wire...

Here is one of the pages Sol-Ark recommended and the top solution is virtually perfect EXCEPT they show the Sol-Ark load going back to only a critical loads panel and I want to power everything. I ASSUME that is to prevent the generator from feeding back to the Sol-Ark through the Loads lugs.

I really just want to make sure I don’t fry my Sol Ark when I flip the power back on. If not for the AC coupling it would be pretty straightforward it seems. One of the ways I looked at hooking it up when the batteries died (and grid is out) it would trigger the ATS— the generator would kick...

Ok so I have kind of an odd layout and I’m trying to make sure I connect my Sol-Ark correctly for my weird setup- don’t fry anything or myself. I have called two local electricians and neither will work with the Sol-Ark unless I give them explicit instructions because they aren’t familiar with...

Fellow Californian here- I’m doing a SOL-Ark install myself with Ruixu batteries. My question is for CA require the DC battery cables to be ran inside conduit if they are inside a building? Is there a specific type of conduit not allowed? Thanks

I’m putting together my SOL-Ark 15k system and will have a server rack of Ruxiu batteries. This will be a grid tied/hybrid system but I’m doing it all DIY. I want to make things to code even though I’m not going to permit it. My question is regarding the cable from the battery rack to the...

Ok so they need to go over all conductors to be effective at all on AC just like DC? Obviously that can’t happen where the black ones are installed but I can probably make that happen where the white ones are (I didn’t have larger ones at that time. The white ones were laying around) since I...

That was why they were suggested. To slow down any spikes to allow this Surge protector a better chance of working.

Thanks for the heads up….some times I hate Google ? lol ? looks like I’m getting a quote to replace that service feed as soon as I can.

This is what I bought ( Ferrite ). I planned on installing them on the solar lines too but of course can fit both - and + in them for that. Edit: I also have one of these installed. It offered better protection than the whole home Seimans I found for basically the same price.

Yeah the pedestal panel has been there (so I’ve been told) since the first building was installed on the property in like 1974 by my wife’s grandfather. We bought the property clearsd it and built a new house. Now we are adding a shop and I’m going to put my solar secondary install in/on the...

Ok so it was suggested I install ferrites on my AC incoming lines to help protect again energy spikes down the line. I also installed a whole home surge protector but said this will assist that as well. So today I install 3 large ferrites on my utility incoming wires (bottom of pic 3rd one...

Well I can go back to the plan of 7-7-6 strings but the wiring is a bit more awkward when I drew it out. I only went this route because of the calculator (see below) from Sol-Ark. Ok back to the drawing board. Edit: clicked the wrong pic for upload.

Sol-Ark string calculator site shows it will work with these panels. Voc for 4 = 197.8 Voc min for 4 = 186.92 I thought the min for the Sol Ark was 150?

So I realized after I drew this I didn’t run the wire down the rail but in real life I will. I think this is the best layout. Thoughts?

I can’t lay out the panels any differently (physically) but I have a bad habit of running wires whatever way is “easy” and not always the most efficiently. However with the amount of wire I’m going to need here, I feel like I need to be efficient for cost purposes. The contractor building the...

5 per row 4 rows all packed together in a block. Shading isn’t an issue at all. I was just thinking how awkward it would be and possibly excess wire usage having to do one full row +2 of the next row then run all the way back to the Jay box. Then 3 of the second row all 5 of the 3 row. I guess...

Sometimes I get focused on - MAX Any suggestions on wiring/routing? Branch connectors or just a shit ton of wiring?

Never mind on question 1 - I’m an idiot I was focusing only on maxing out each MPPT not thinking I could split it differently. I guess I can do 7,7 and 6 on the MPPT ??‍♂️

I think I done messed up…. ( Note: I can’t physically put anything together until after my building inspection) I’m buying and laying out everything for an upcoming install. Got the Sol-Ark 15k, got the Iron Ridge mounting, the panels I was going to buy went away (out of stock forever). I came...

I think it only shows you where to put the mounts if you have the commercial version. I ended up sort of guessing based on the MM measurements given on the solar panel specs. I guess I’ll find out when it comes time to run the rails and mount if my guesstimation worked.

Ok so I’ve searched the forum and looked at some YouTube videos but I still have a few questions. I’m building a new shop and I’m going to have the roofers put down IronRidge flashfoot 2 and a conduit. I’ll be completing the rest of the install AFTER final inspection of the building. I don’t...

Ok got the Victron shunt installed. Below is the amp draw when I go to sleep. This included my CPAP (I assumed), phone charger, and the “standby” power from two LED TVs and the clock on the microwave. If I turn the inverter to “off” it drops all of the standby power but I can’t charge my...

This one is 4k with 12k surge. The plan was if I needed to run the AC in the RV even for a small time OR power another RV for a short time. It’s certainly wasn’t cheap. Everything I read said AIMs had good inverters. So you think the 25w .5 amp sleep cost is too much? It’s 51w when not asleep...

I just bit the bullet (I had enough cell service where I’m sitting) and bought the Victron shunt from Amazon for $130. It won’t help me until I can get home to get it and install it but eventually it will.

Inverter is AIMS 4000w pure sine wave. “Sleep” draw is 0.5 amps per hour.

Sorry my post didn’t tag as a reply. Cell service is really spotty! I posted below.

These are the settings I loaded into the EpEver (both the prior one that died and the new one). I have 2 200ah 12v wired in parallel with 2/0 cable.

Battery was showing 13.5 v before night time draw started. Per AT documentation that’s “full” Generic meter on inverter showed full bars too.

I don’t. Guess I’m going to have to buck up the $130 for one though.

Hi guys I’m hoping for some advice on diagnosing a problem with my RV set up. Setup: 2x ampear time 200AH batters 12v EpEver solar charge controller 4000w inverter charger 900W of solar My EpEver died suddenly and I’m not sure why. I noticed when my batteries died and the BMS cut them...