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Here a couple pictures of the batteries insides. Btw, they used the same 25mm2/M6 lug for every connection, for 1x6AWG, 2x8AWG, ...

I need to release my anger again. Today I further disassembled my problematic "100Ah" 48V battery from (today's Name) "PAPOOL LiFePO4 Official Store" (they keep changing names more often than I change my underwear). The battery had some problems from the beginning, i.e. one cell that is in a...

I could afford something like a Victron MPPT, I just dont accept the price 😂

I may be a bit late to this thread, I am owner of 3 60A MakeSkyBlue MPPT's for a year now and am happy with them, they survived a reverse battery AND reverse PV input (needed to swap 2 diodes for 0.10€ but they even provided me with the needed Part number).

Most DC circuit run rather high currents, for a low resistance connection you need a lot of surface are, much better given by a ring terminal than a bare screw terminal

As one of the most common examples for offgrid inverters there would be Victron, depending on the models you could even hook up a generator to charge the batteries, connect grid tie inverters to your offgrid system,..

Yes, why not? get a USB-C power delivery board that can do 100W charging and work with the output voltage of the bluetti

But careful, those cheapo chinese no name 200A polarised dc breakers are probably more dangerous than helpful

I have placed an order with Amy now for 16S 304Ah case, I'm curious if it will be as expexted. Case, Shipping to germany, taxes included, 320$ (not €!) for my configuration

Here is a more up to date table: https://www.ezitown.com/nh-ceramics-low-voltage-fuses-fuse-bases-fuse-rail-fuse-puller/

Never seen the lower NHA fuses, cant find them on the internet either

From what I've found on ebay, you are probably better off by using just NH bases and a seperate DC rated switch. NH fuses seem very rare overseas

So you are based in the US? There are single pole NH disconnect switches from a lot of brands, not only ABB, maybe you can find a used, cheaper one. I dont know your exact setup, but if you have multiple 24 or 48V batteries with inverters you could look for 3 pole NH2 disconnect switches, put a...

Each battery should have one fuse to the main busbar, every inverter should have one fuse to the busbar.

Don't parallel them, it just makes things messy and problematic. 1500W / 24V = 62.5A (without your factor the best fuse would be 63A) Times 1.25 would be 78.125A so the 80A fuse is your friend.

If there is no need for remote switching then I would recommend using NH-Switches, here is one for a single NH2 fuse i.e. https://new.abb.com/products/1SEP600122R0001/xlp2-1p It takes one NH fuse (either NH1 or NH2) up to 400A. You can use it as fuse base and DC disconnect switch

You dont calculate with the acutal voltages (25.6V) but instead with 24V or 48V to have some security

Yes, the red tab on top is the indicator that the fuse has blown. On that ETI fuse you also have the red dot on the front, if its blown the rered dot will disappear

Paralleling fuses is not the best idea as no 2 fuses have exactly the same resistance, so you always have a fuse carrying a higher current than the other one, meaning one will fail more likely. Then there will be an additional amount of time it takes for the second fuse to blow, which leads to a...

Remote DC disconnect? Or just a manual disconnect?

Just as a sidenote, before buying anything else, please show me what you want to buy and what you want to do with it so that I can tell you if its the right thing or not ;)

Whats you String Voltage that you chose the Siba PV fuse? The normal "small" NH00 from siemens can already handle 250Vdc if I remember correctly

Well, it is technically an NH1 fuse, but you actually an NH1 XL (for the extra length)

You just need A LOT of force😅

It is on purpose that the clamps have such a tight grip, those 4 "tiny" clamps need to be low resistance enough to handle currents of up to I think it 3000A (3000A on a tenth Ohm of resistance would be 300W of heat on the terminals) Those relay are for fuses with a special pin that comes out...

I do regret that I cut my 40U EMC rack into pieces a couple years ago, that thing was a 300kg steel beast with a weight limit of 1.8 Tons, that would have made a damn nice Battery rack

I own one of those noname 48V 100Ah AliExpress batteries, the BMS is (probably) a cheap Seplos BMS clone, even the DR-Software seems to be a cheap copy of the seplos monitoring.

Andy from OffGridGarage had a 200A JK BMS running at a bit over 200A and then open under that load and it immediatly blew at least one of the mosfets. For my battery pack, I will go with the JK BMS Mosfets AND a high current relay

I've watched the Videos from Andy from OffGridGarage, JK "fixed" the bms problem by having it reset to the lowest voltage battery type, thats not really a fix in my opinion. Is there a long term solution planned to solve this?

The small Multiplus has a VE.Bus port, but you usually need an expensive adapter to connect it to usb and even then I can't say what you can read out or do with the interface. Would be simpler to put an ESP in to measure battery voltage and maybe a DC current sensor or shunt to calculate...

Tried that with an Eaton ECO 1200, Toasted it. Edit: Btw, If anyone (from germany) needs 2 Eaton Eco ups boards, one 800VA one 1200VA, cant remember which one exactly I toasted and which one worked but I gave up, contact me

The big or the small one? On the big one I only have necessary loads and we usually never have outages longer than 3 hours, with PV input it can hold up for that time. The small one is just the ups for my rack, when I see that its a longer outage I shut everything besides router and wifi off so...

I own a victron Multiplus II 48/5000 that switches over in <20ms and I also have a Victron Multiplus 24/800 that also switches over in less than 20ms (and has saved my Servers from countless power outages). Both Multiplus'es have integrated chargers and changeover switches and at least for the...

I've read a bit more, so gL is an old curve (for cables) replaced by gG (for general purpose). The first g is for "general purpose", there could also be an a for "accompanied fuse") the second letters could be: G - general purpose M - electric motors R - semiconductor protection B - mining Tr -...

They do fit, physically, but NH3 fuse holders (like the 3NH3430) have 2 brackets on either connector to carry the higher currents. (Here is the NH2 for comparison: 3NH3330)