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50% would be the minimum discount to start. I’d consider it as a spare/backup to mine in service, but again that would depend heavily on the cost to me. As Timselectric said, you buy new equipment (even if it’s to replace virtually the same device) it’s eligible for the credit. So you’d get...

They sent it the next morning or something, still around 30¢/W for the panels I wanted, not a good enough deal SanTan Solar: Here's FREE Shipping! Use code: free_ship

Anyone have the code for this promo? I signed up, even though I was already on their list, to get the code and haven’t been sent the code yet.

I’ll bet if their pricing algorithm could display changes of decimal cents on the website it would.

What do you have left now-is your pricing still the same from your post in Dec of last year?

So you have 1? 10,000? Or something in between?

I installed one of these (390 model I think) on my traditional AC unit. It was drawing something like 135A in startup and aside from the possibility of being able to run or start it on my 30a/7500W generator I wanted the inrush lowered to shock my 15k less. It’s down to an average of around...

Chargeverter runs 5kW and 30a. OP wants a 50a capable solution-probably 8kw+. Though for a “beefy” Westinghouse that can produce 50a, it’s still a portable and shouldn’t be run at max continuously (portables aren’t meant for continuous use at their maximum ratings) maxing out the Chargeverter...

Is this a code inspected application? If it is then no, ground needs to be factory colored the correct color (as stated anbove) and cannot be recoded as green/ground unless size 4AWG or above.

That drawing doesn’t make any sense though. In the material table the call out a 12’ post (144” c channel) first line. But they call out 7’ imbedded and 8’3” above ground. Thats a 15.25’ long post not 12’. Even with their optional 14’ driven post (the difference in the length gets driven)...

Is that more strict to the left? Or more permissive?

In the US, per standard NEC, AC and DC conductors that are part of the “same system” can share space in the same enclosure. For example a wiring gutter that has solar DC going to the inverter and main AC from a switch to the inverter are part of the same system and permissible with certain...

Mine fires up one of its 240v pumps to circulate and for the cleaning cycles- but only at a low speed. Under low loads and speeds 240v motors are more efficient than 120v ones pushed.

One far sale with some batteries here: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/for-sale-sol-ark-and-fortress-power-eflex-5-4-complete-off-grid-system.74088/unread

From other answers posted here I believe you do have to do them individually.

And ghost…

Yes, what was the HHO you were involved in used for? @Central Coast Solar

You have internet to post here? You can’t use the same to shop for these necessary safety components?

EG4 also sells their Chargeverter that does exactly this, but is selectable on the draw so as not to overwhelm the genset. It’s about $400 but gets high marks here.

Sold in stores is only one option. Online shops sell directly, there is eBay, Amazon, etc that is all available to much of the world. If you cannot (and they’re poor for this application) get wire nuts you should also look for something called ‘Polaris lugs’ or Power distribution blocks. Both...

@glandpuck Put them in to satisfy the AHJ and pass the inspections and once you have the paperwork remove them or disconnect them. You’d be better off in the long run in compliance with the NEC for protection than the AHJ adding liability. Simply because something hasn’t been a problem for...

Agreed, the wire overlap is the least concerning thing in those pictures.

They’re not going to shake out in a horizontal orientation. They’re used in trailer hitch pins to hold the ball in the hitch sleeve almost universally on pickups SUV’s and some cars and they don’t just fall out-and there’s far more stress and vibration in that application than in a solar mount...

So with a wood mount, you’re saying that this happens with metal ground mounted supports then? Not just grounding rods.

I handles though. Be difficult to pull out? The hitch T handle pins I linked are the same holding concept but with a nice handle.

Not being sure what or how you mean ‘overlap’ it’s going to be very hard to answer this question. Can you provide a picture of what you mean when you say overlap?

My head hurts from trying ?. Should have quit when I was ahead.

I said it already. Second and third grounding rods? omg

Second and third ground rods ? oMG @timselectric are you reading this?

Tractor hitch equipment pins, t handle with a locking keeper ball, available in multiple shaft sizes and lengths. Like...

That’s a big one. Mine is pretty standard and it has a 5kW heating element and 2 240v pumps.

I need an arctic cover for this one, it’s fairly new and haven’t sprung for it yet. I have packed much of the free space inside it with more insulation and spray foamed all the joints. Hadn’t considered sitting it in a bathtub of more insulation ?

22kw a day!?!?!? That’s just nuts. Is there a setting on the controller to put it into economy or power save mode, out of its standard mode for heating? I have a 330gal 6 person Viking and its balboa controller has a standard mode that I assume is a lot like what yours is running. We keep it...

I’d say that the default for home use and most of the cheap consumer grade devices is assumed to be solid wire-but explicitly what is quoted above does not. Touché

They don’t explicitly list it either. ??‍♂️. Just playing devils advocate…