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Not sure of the legality of it, but you would need to consider how to dig into the ground around the existing septic lines. I used 46" ground penetrator anchors for my ground mounts, and they can be removed if necessary (if someone objects) Those would have the narrowest profile for ground...

For those wondering, "Won't that extra 25' or cord take away some of the generator power due to voltage drop?" 6000 W load = 25 A continuous @ 240V 10 AWG is 0.001 ohm per foot 50 additional feet of wire (counting two hot conductors) Power = I^2R = (25)(25)(0.001)(50) = 31.25 Watts lost I'll...

I bought the 50 footer so I can move my portable generator(s) further from the house, which everyone will appreciate during long outages. The 25' one I had was on the edge of being too close.

I would expect the main battery to aggregate the other batteries, assuming you have the jumper rj45 cables chained with the Battery-Comm ports. Also, the little blinky lights flash once a second on all of my batteries due to the communication.

This does not directly answer your question, but is for others who read this. VictronConnect on Mac with MK3-USB can change these settings. But I had to disconnect the Quattros from the Cerbo GX and plug the cable into the MK3-USB device.

Every time I update the Quattro firmware (admittedly is rare), all of the settings are lost, so they have to be restored through a settings file. And I have to re-add the ESS assistant and Programmable Relay Assistant and configure them. None of that can happen without VEConfigure3.

Here is a conversation I had on this topic. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/installed-victron-mp-ii-48-5000-thanks-adam-for-ignoring-ac-input-video.75684/post-964998 VEConfigure is windows only. If you need to setup split-phase, or add assistants, you are stuck with Windows, cannot use...

That would be greatly disappointing.

For future readers, Signature Solar posted this multipack firmware in January 2024 for EG4-LL v1, v2, and LL-S when mixing module types. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/need-help-adding-eg4-ll-s-with-eg4-ll-v1.77770/post-993974

Can anyone tell where the 18kpvs tie into the busbars?

Holy crap, those are near-floor to ceiling busbars! Keep your socket wrenches and tire irons away from those!:)

Presumably the wire from where the batteries are combined to the inverters cannot take the output of qty 6 202Ah bigbattery.com batteries (1212A at 1C). It needs to be fused. We have not seen the OP racking/busbar topology yet.

Link to the OP Eaton/Bussmann Fuse https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.FWH-600A.html

And dissipated heat is only 1/4 as much because of I^2R

OK, that's what I have, except mine are 48V, not 24V. Running 8000W continuous at low battery voltage, say 24V, and assuming 90% efficiency, you are looking at 370A continuous. You definitely want a Class T or the FWH Class J fuse you've shown above for the doomsday scenario. I've got 4/0...

4 gauge copper is 4 gauge copper, but the ampacity depends on the insulation and whether buried or in conduit DC or AC is no practical difference in terms of resistive losses 145 amps sounds excessively high for a PV run, can you clarify what panels you are using? How many panels per string in...

Thanks for posting all of those, I'm sure they will help other EG4-LL v1 customers in the future. Hopefully the Schneider people who also own EG4-LL v1s will chime in.

https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-distribution-systems/lynx-class-t-power-in But it only goes to 400A I think. Also, the FWH series fuses you attached are not Class T (they are better, Class J, I believe). Personally, I don't trust ANL for anything, even if they are from Blue Sea. Also, 600A...

@Mr-Sandman @JFKS

See if the instructions @EG4_Eric provided above is better. I scanned it, don't see any mention of the menu.

You know, EG4 has somewhat neglected us EG4-LL v1 owners. They don't have files to download on their web page. They don't really acknowledge the product existed in any way. Some videos show them putting EG4-LL S, EG4-LL v2, v1, and maybe even LifePower in a rack together. I would work with...

@SniperX try this thread: Post in thread 'Anybody had trouble uploading new EG4 LL V1 firmware?' https://diysolarforum.com/threads/anybody-had-trouble-uploading-new-eg4-ll-v1-firmware.52088/post-737508 Also, I don’t remember the holding down the button and menu as being part of the v1 firmware...

I totally agree. The problem is that the data sheet has two sets of those!

OK, this bothers me. Every other vendor I've seen, the coefficients are relative to STC at 25 degrees C. It lets us compare vendors easily. You may be assuming they are relative to NMOT because they list the coefficients in the same table. I still think you should use STC for your calculations...

No apologies necessary, it is your thread. Looks like you have to tap holes into a base plate for the long bolts that go through the top holes in the middle. Here’s a German guy testing a similar single pole model. You can turn on CC and auto-translate.

Ordered. They are going to be baffled by the uptick in sales. This forum has financial clout! :)

Maybe if you don’t cut open the cable, the arcing will stay inside. Marketing people, sheesh.

Great deal! But the arcing conductors make me nervous! :)

Right, two different things. However, I put stainless bolts into galvanized unistrut nuts and had terrible galling. Fortunately, there was some anti-seize goop in the garage,

I’m using this one for my Positive Busbar. I would have gotten Lynx if I had known about them.

I see no specifications in the manual other than what I extracted below. https://manuals.plus/joyvolt/jv1500-portable-outdoor-power-supply-manual Solar Charging Input: 600W Max.

Based on that chart, do you consider galvanized steel to be steel or zinc? Because I definitely mix stainless and galvanized all over the place. Aluminum I know better, and put tape and nylon washers to prevent corrosion.

I thought I was being smart getting all stainless hardware for my unistrut to panel connections. I was cranking those bolts way too fast and with too much torque,and had to cut three of the bolts out when they seized. I was blaming McMaster Carr for crappy hardware, until I found out I was the...

Yes, get the biggest amperage rating you can find in a convenient size, preferably double the current you expect. It will keep the heat down at higher current levels.