diy solar

diy solar

My take on mobile builds and ac/dc gear.

tao4409

New Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2019
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6
I break loads down into categories. Those that will be constantly running and those that will run for short periods, high and low draw, and whether the load is available in LVDC or only available in an AC version. The build I am working on now is a mobile, so I am focused on avoiding extra weight and maximizing efficiency due to a lack of real estate for PV panels. Therefore, constant and/or light loads such as air handling, comm, refrigeration and lighting will be LVDC (24volt), while intermittent heavy loads will be AC. One area where I must compromise is my professional audio gear which requires AC and is a near constant load, so I will mitigate the losses by installing a smaller dedicated (300watt) inverter for that while using the large inverter only for larger intermittent loads that require it, such as clothes washer, coffee pot, convection oven, etc.
 
I don't know much about professional audio gear but, I would think it would take more than a 300 watt inverter to run very much of it.
 
I don't know much about professional audio gear but, I would think it would take more than a 300 watt inverter to run very much of it.
Mostly, it is remote recording gear, low power draw, pristine recording and reproduction; nothing high powered. If I need the subwoofers, I have to run a MUCH larger inverter, theoretically, on paper (yet clearly true) since I have yet to build and test the rig. In general, unless you need subsonics, audio doesn't use a ton of power these days.
 
Agreed. I run as much off of 24vdc first and this includes 12vdc loads through a down converter. My 24/3000 Multiplus is only for high amperage appliances like roof top AC, hot water tank, coffee maker, cooking appliances. For Boondocking i still use propane for heat and refer.
No need to run an inverter when all you need is lights and tv.
 
I full time in a class B. I run all 120v including fridge off 1500w PSW inverter with 400w of solar. My deficit between the sun is 35-40ah based on shunt metering including 600w toaster oven, 10hrs of TV, chromecast, mifi, phone, and ipad and im unusually back to full AH wise by 11:30am.

All I can say is that im very pleased with my setups load and frankly glad I never bought DC native appliances besides a 8" fan. I can run into any walmart and replace anything for less than $100.
 
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I full time in a class B. I run all 120v including fridge off 1500w PSW inverter with 400w of solar. My deficit between the sun is 35-40ah based on shunt metering including 600w toaster oven, 10hrs of TV, chromecast, mifi, phone, and ipad and im unusually back to full AH wise by 11:30am.

All I can say is that im very pleased with my setups load and frankly glad I never bought DC native appliances besides a 8" fan. I can run into any walmart and replace anything for less than $100.
Am wondering about your battery amp-hour rating ?
 
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