Solar for Overlanding 4x4 vehicles. Jeeps, Tacos, Land Cruisers and beyond

[offroadsoda]

I want to talk about solar for off road / over-landing. I feel like this deserves a section of its own, but I'll start my thread here. I have a Rich Solar 100W panel going to a Victron MPPT 75/15 controller charging a cheap lead acid Marine group 74 budget battery from O'Rielly Auto Parts (cheap house brand for now). I added the Bluetooth dongle so i could manage the controller from the cab of the Jeep with my mounted iPad. For the most part, this works well, but I have a ton of different questions and i'm hopeful to get some conversation going on this forum.

There does not appear to be a preset profile for lead acid batteries and I'm not convinced the factory default is right at all for this. I'm not sure this lower price point deep cell came with specs I need to setup a profile.

I'm not 100% sure the controller is behaving correctly. I don't even know where to start with this issue. Despite settings to limit charge voltage, the controller reports High Voltage warning and records 16-19V peaks nearly every day now. I caught one of these voltage spikes in person and noticed that only the app indicated the spike... the voltmeter i put in the cab showed no change in voltage.

Today, and I've seen this before, the Victron charge mode turned off or was in Float fort he majority of the day despite the fact the battery showed 12.5V which is not a full charge... should be charging during the day somewhere in the 13V range.

I have more... i have images... starting here. Will, please consider a Solar for Overlanders space.

 

[b.james]

Just to help if I can . On the victron app top right corner is a sprocket ,click on that for settings and scroll through what you have it set for . My victron came with the equaliser off but sounds like yours is on . Grab a manual for it below . It has a setting that returns everything to default and for you that might be the better place to start from.

A fully charged Lead acid battery is steady state at about 12.7V if I remember right.

 

[offroadsoda]

When things are functioning seemingly correct, look like 12.8 is the steady state for this LA battery.

thank you @b.james - I have spent quite a bit of time in those settings and can assure you i do not have equalization on. I've reset the unit once, but this didn't do the trick. What worked before to get things back on track is to disconnect the controller from all power ins and outs and reconnect. I did this yesterday, so we'll see if it starts charging correctly again when the sun hits the panel at full strength around noon today. I'm not confident this Victron MPPT is all it's cracked up to be. Could be that I'm just and idiot or could be that i need to purchase a decent battery and not an $89 Marine Deep Cell from the auto parts store.

The problem is, and i've been poking all around @Will Prowse 's YouTube channel for an alternative, my dual battery is in the engine compartment, therefore, I'm restricted to lead acid due to the high heat (i think). My Jeep JKU is known for getting pretty hot under the hood so battery options are limited. Also, this could be why the Victron misbehaves, if it is. It may just bee too hot in there for this unit to last or function correctly.

I'm adding a hood louver this month to cool the engine bay down... we'll see if that helps

 

[Bob W]

I’m surprised there is not more of a response.
I own a 2015 JKU Rubicon and I am wondering the same. Is there a way to run a dual battery system with an AGM starting battery and a LiFePo4 battery and be able to charge the Lithium battery other than using solar panels.
I would also like to incorporate a Bantam SPOD into the system.
it may be the case that the lithium battery may have to be place elsewhere than under the hood.
thoughts?

 

[offroadsoda]

I’m surprised there is not more of a response.
I own a 2015 JKU Rubicon and I am wondering the same. Is there a way to run a dual battery system with an AGM starting battery and a LiFePo4 battery and be able to charge the Lithium battery other than using solar panels.
I would also like to incorporate a Bantam SPOD into the system.
it may be the case that the lithium battery may have to be place elsewhere than under the hood.
thoughts?

I'm not familiar with the Bantam, I like the older school tech so i haven't seen much of the new model SPOD. Also, I went with the ApoloIntech switch systems both 4 and 6 and I love them! Li can't take the heat under the hood in the engine bay, but i do think there's a place for it in the back of the jeep...i'm just not sure how i want to work it into my arrangement.

 

[Targus100]

I have a Dual Cab Ford Ranger ute and did not want a second battery permanatly mounted in the vehicle, so what I have done is run wires from the engine bay cranking battery into a battery box that I have mounted into the tub (easily removable) The battery box has a charge controller built into it using the vehicle's alternator so that will charge the cranking battery first then the battery in the battery box. When the vehicle is off it isolates the battery box from the cranking battery to ensure that I do not get a flat cranking battery.
I do this so that I can run a car fridge and lights when I go away camping, the battery box also has a solar input for charging and I use a 250 watt folding panel with inbuilt PWM charge controller which works a treat and keeps the battery (120 amp hour AGM) in perfect working condition and keeps me in cold beer and more important fresh food even when it is stinking hot.

 

[RandyP]

I currently run dual batteries under the hood adjacent to the engine. My batteries are agm and the under hood temp is very high. I use a battery isolater charger controller that is based on ignition key position and starting battery voltage (a relay). It works.
The batteries are very heavy (about 80# each). Tend to give the battery tray points of attachment grief.
Am considering a light weight (21# or so) Lion Energy LiFePO4 battery located on the passenger side of the Jeep TJ above the wheel well. There is enough space there for this 90AH battery. Then two 180-200W solar panels on the roof rack. A canoe rack I made bending 3/4" black carbon steel gas pipe and welded construction. One Panel above the other, bottom panel on drawer pullout sliders, aluminum angle iron structure. Will use a RedArc BCDC1240D DC-DC with solar input battery controller (aussie product). One item controls battery charging from alternator and solar. LiFePO4 charging profile. 40 Amp charge.
The aux lifepo4 battery will run the ARB Elements Fridge Freezer 63QT and what ever I put in the trailer (water pump, fuel pump, light, CPAP 12v outlet, USB chargers, etc). The object is to run only one lead acid battery under the hood and a light weight LiFePO4 battery (not under hood) to keep the refridge and aux loads powered up using solar and vehicle alternator source.
My alternator is a 190A premier power welder alternator.

 

[tkt2rde]

I am new to Overlanding and have not purchased anything yet. The Overlanding approach is definitely different from the RV installations in that a permanent mount panel is not usually a possibility for most of us (who don't have a purpose-built earth roamer anyhow). I am wondering what other's experiences are with need. I'm currently considering a 215w portable solar blanket and the Bluetti 1500 all in one solution. Do those of you with experience think this would be sufficient? I considered a dual battery setup because of the need for air and winch. But I figure I won't need to run either with engine off. And, I've stubbornly chosen to build a 2016 F-150 and from what I have heard, the factory BMS system is a pain in the arse to work with/around. I'm thinking the simpler the better at this point... and if it's portable... well that's a bonus. I recently saw Off Grid Trek's 215w blanket and although pretty expensive for the wattage... they do publish their efficiency rating. I wonder if Will would be interested in testing more easily deployable (compact) solar blankets to see if they are a decent option?

Offering Portable/Deployable Solar Blankets & Solar Solutions

Our Solar Blankets offer the Highest Efficiency rating available meaning they even work in the rain, snow or smoke from fires. Our South African Trailers/Caravans are the lightest available in the market, while still offering more Options

www.offgridtrek.com

 

[JeepHammer]

I'm a long time fan of Jeeps, and being retired military, redundant Expedition vehicles in particular.

Something you might consider, the way us 'Old Folks' used to do things...
Think 'Integration' and 'System' instead of 'Accessory'.
Bullet proof and 'Idiot' proof from the ground up...

1. Oil pressure switch/relay for battery isolation.
Secondary battery is isolated anytime there is no oil pressure.
A common 70 amp automotive relay controlled by the oil pressure switch connects both batteries at the alternator connection.
The is automatically redundant since the primary battery is directly connected to the alternator.

2. Use secondary battery to power the 'Self Rescue', the secondary battery is only connected to the starter/electrical system when the key switch is in the 'Start' position, leaving the key switch in Accessory or Run position won't drain the secondary.
With an oil pressure switch the secondary charges from the alternator after the vehicle starts.
Integrated & bullet proof.
Even if the alternator fails the two batteries are still connected via alternator connection and the vehicle runs.

3. Run secondary battery through a second starter relay (Ford type).
A relay ("Solenoid") between batteries and feeding the starter through a single starter solenoid/relay is a singular failure point, the starter relay fails, you are jammed.
The second part is a relay between batteries is the first restriction to secondary battery current, then a dead primary battery, then the starter solenoid/relay is the third restriction.

4. A Ford type starter relay from secondary feeds the starter directly, a completely redundant starting circuit.
For those of you with a Chrysler type starter you might consider modifying the solenoid for a push button or cable to pull the starter drive gear into the flywheel manually, this makes starter solenoid failures a simple annoyance and not a major day killer...
The older Jeeps with Ford starters won't need this.

5. There is something to be said for a matched battery set,
And a set of batteries on quick disconnects like 'Anderson' brand connectors.
With a simple 'Y' yoke you can stick & MIG weld directly off the batteries.
With jumper/welding cables it's not an issue to do serious cutting/welding.
If you have air, 24 volts will run a plasma cutter.

6. Your secondary battery on a quick connect/quick tie down release you can lend power to someone that needs it, I often used the second battery for power tools when needed and fans/lights in camp/tents.
When you see those ultra cheap battery powered tools at pawn shops, thrift stores & yard sales with dead batteries, think corded tool connected to the secondary battery...
Trail tools so cheap you don't care much if one gets dropped in a bottomless mud pit or run over, $5 gets you a new one!

I built most of my homestead with a '73 CJ-5, including plowing gardens, building the shop, a root cellar, two cold storage rooms, and a ton of off roading, so if you can use any of this fell free to ask questions...
The '86 Grand Wagoneer and the '73 CJ-5 have dual batteries, dual radiator fans, dual fuel pumps, dual ignition systems, on board air, air pressurized axles, trans, transfer and distributor so they don't fill with water, all of which came about from failures, through trial & error they simply don't let me down anymore.
It's not 'Pretty', glamorous or 'Connected', but they are reliable as an anvil.

 

[RandyP]

I'm a long time fan of Jeeps, and being retired military, redundant Expedition vehicles in particular.

Something you might consider, the way us 'Old Folks' used to do things...
Think 'Integration' and 'System' instead of 'Accessory'.
Bullet proof and 'Idiot' proof from the ground up...

........

The '86 Grand Wagoneer and the '73 CJ-5 have dual batteries, dual radiator fans, dual fuel pumps, dual ignition systems, on board air, air pressurized axles, trans, transfer and distributor so they don't fill with water, all of which came about from failures, through trial & error they simply don't let me down anymore.
It's not 'Pretty', glamorous or 'Connected', but they are reliable as an anvil.

Wondering about the "air pressurized axles, trans, transfer and distributor so they don't fill with water", I see the advantage there but wonder how you regulated and managed that ?

 

[RandyP]

I’m surprised there is not more of a response.
I own a 2015 JKU Rubicon and I am wondering the same. Is there a way to run a dual battery system with an AGM starting battery and a LiFePo4 battery and be able to charge the Lithium battery other than using solar panels.
I would also like to incorporate a Bantam SPOD into the system.
it may be the case that the lithium battery may have to be place elsewhere than under the hood.
thoughts?

Bob, use a dc to dc charge controller, RedArc makes a good 40A model, BCDC1240D. It also has a controller for solar panels, so you can charge from the alternator and add solar panels if you choose.

Put the LiFePO4 battery in the back of the jeep, above a wheel well or else where. Wont work under the hood temps. Run your refrigerator/freezer, blender, etc off the LiFePO4, even your trailer power could come from the LiFePO4 battery, leaving the stock battery in the stock location providing the jeep with power and starting service.

 

[RandyP]

I want to talk about solar for off road / over-landing. I feel like this deserves a section of its own, but I'll start my thread here. I have a Rich Solar 100W panel going to a Victron MPPT 75/15 controller charging a cheap lead acid Marine group 74 budget battery from O'Rielly Auto Parts (cheap house brand for now). I added the Bluetooth dongle so i could manage the controller from the cab of the Jeep with my mounted iPad. For the most part, this works well, but I have a ton of different questions and i'm hopeful to get some conversation going on this forum.

.......

Today, and I've seen this before, the Victron charge mode turned off or was in Float fort he majority of the day despite the fact the battery showed 12.5V which is not a full charge... should be charging during the day somewhere in the 13V range.

I have more... i have images... starting here. Will, please consider a Solar for Overlanders space.

Offrosdsoda, check out the Victron MPPT 75/15 controler specs. Is it ment to be operated at 'under hood' temps ? I honestly think this could be the problem. Move the controller and battery to the back of the jeep, get a dc-dc battery charger and a LiFePO4 battery, life will be better.

 

[JeepHammer]

Wondering about the "air pressurized axles, trans, transfer and distributor so they don't fill with water", I see the advantage there but wonder how you regulated and managed that ?

I have an OLD Jeep, my electric compressor sits on the fire wall next to the brake booster.
The INLET for the compressor is in the windshield frame, but you could also collect air from a snorkel tube.

Since we aren't talking hydraulics here, impedance and gravity aren't an issue, so the line 'T's and goes to the underbody tanks, and to a distribution block on top the driver's side inner fender.
This block has a regulator, which services the distributor, trans, transfer and continues back to the rear diff.
Another line services the front axle and distributor.

With stock distributor it runs happily blowing bubbles under water, I've run it sitting on the back of the low bucket seats driving with my feet, water lapping over the hood hitting the windshield.

Then it was outer spindle/hubs that got water logged, I simply put a grease zerk in the hub between wheel bearings and pumped the entire hub full of grease.
Where grease is, water can't be.

Pulling the lockout, and loosening the wheel bearing nuts, slide the hub past the seal I can repack bearings or squeeze out any water that got past the seals, tighten the nuts back up, put the lock out back on and it's ready for more abuse.

 

[RandyP]

What pressure did you regulate the air at ? Always pressurized or only at water crossings with the turn of a valve ?

 

[JeepHammer]

What pressure did you regulate the air at ? Always pressurized or only at water crossings with the turn of a valve ?

You only have to maintain positive pressure, so 2-5 psi works.

No top? Trans shifter is a funnel into the transmission, so an ATV CV joint boot on the shifter/trans collar,
Otherwise it's reasonable seals and line size, and I plumb in though the vents of axles, trans/transfer.
The older Jeeps had a vent in the distributor cap, I pull it out, use a MIG welder tip screwed into the vent hole, and the small hole in a MIG tip regulates volume into the cap so I don't pop the cap loose.

I use a push/pull air solenoid, vented when not activated, pressurized when activated.
The 'Deep Water' switch also turns the electric radiator fan off. Deep water kills electric radiator fans.

 

[Ped]

The reason voltage is climbing is due to temp compensation. If its hitting inverters HVD lower it from -3 to -2 or -1. But that temp compensation is raising voltages for a reason and battery manufacturers will tell you that those high voltages in cold weather are neccessary.

But that is mostly systems used 24/7 so you'll be okay with it lower I think.

 

[Bob W]

Bob, use a dc to dc charge controller, RedArc makes a good 40A model, BCDC1240D. It also has a controller for solar panels, so you can charge from the alternator and add solar panels if you choose.

Put the LiFePO4 battery in the back of the jeep, above a wheel well or else where. Wont work under the hood temps. Run your refrigerator/freezer, blender, etc off the LiFePO4, even your trailer power could come from the LiFePO4 battery, leaving the stock battery in the stock location providing the jeep with power and starting service.

Thank you Randy