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Solar panel mounting question.

tacomaguy20

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I'm new to solar and I'm not that familiar with the racking systems that are used to mount solar panels to the roof. Watching the installation videos, it doesn't seem too challenging but I'm wondering if there are certain spacing requirements that need to be met and if there are standard sizes for that spacing? And I'm not referring to the spacing of the panels themselves but more the spacing between the racking mounts and rails. Are there certain codes, does it depend on the panels I buy, or does it depend on the racking system itself? I have cement tiles and so I need the mounts that fit under the tile and attach to the roof studs (tile roof hooks I think they are called).
 
Hello the spacing depends on the weight of the "total system", the inclination of the solar panels and the distance to floor . to make the calculations wind speed (km/h) vs sen of angle º x 75kg x area in sq meters..the result will gives you the force at certain wind speed..if you put near to the roof in the same angle its not necesary make the formula-- just consider the amount of mass and the streng of you structure.... aprox 35kg per solar pannel... remeber not grab the panels to the tiles..must be to the structure....
 
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Hello the spacing depends on the weight of the "total system", the inclination of the solar panels and the distance to floor . to make the calculations wind speed (km/h) vs sen of angle º x 75kg x area in sq meters..the result will gives you the force at certain wind speed..if you put near to the roof in the same angle its not necesary make the formula-- just consider the amount of mass and the streng of you structure.... aprox 35kg per solar pannel... remeber not grab the panels to the tiles..must be to the structure....

Okay so you are saying to use the force per wind speed but what wind speed should I be using? But you are also saying if it's the same angle as the roof not to worry about the calculation but to estimate 35kg per solar panel but how does that translate into spacing for the mounts & rails? I'm confused on that.
 
When I tried to use the calculator / CAD tools on the website, I decided it wasn't worth the time to put 3-4 hours (or maybe even greater? I don't use CAD in my day job so I have to start from zero) into learning how to draw it out properly and enter the data.

And anyway if you subcontract out the drawings to the racking company they handle this for you for your location (they know things like what kind of earthquake loading you need to put in, wind loading, snow, etc). You'll need drawings (and possible engineer stamps) for your AHJ anyway, so why spend brain power on it and either doing it worse than the turnkey service will because you forgot to put in a load for your area that was required, or the wrong number ; or paying an opportunity cost and making other parts of your solar design/installation worse b/c you had less time on it?

And then you can focus your time on optimizing/fixing little things. Like with the drawings that I got, I'm just optimizing portrait/landscape arrangement here and there to be easier.

EDIT: Now even if you're under an AHJ with simplified permitting requirements where you don't even need to submit racking plan, let alone engineering stamps (California has been trending to this over the past 10 years and sometimes has an aggressive push to reduce further). In that case you can argue that paying for complete planset is a superfluous expense. Sure, a solar installer would then just guesstimate a plan to figure out the BOM to send with the installers, and let them figure it out. But people generally don't know anything as a first time DIY so IMO you want as complete of plans as possible.
 
When I tried to use the calculator / CAD tools on the website, I decided it wasn't worth the time to put 3-4 hours (or maybe even greater? I don't use CAD in my day job so I have to start from zero) into learning how to draw it out properly and enter the data.

And anyway if you subcontract out the drawings to the racking company they handle this for you for your location (they know things like what kind of earthquake loading you need to put in, wind loading, snow, etc). You'll need drawings (and possible engineer stamps) for your AHJ anyway, so why spend brain power on it and either doing it worse than the turnkey service will because you forgot to put in a load for your area that was required, or the wrong number ; or paying an opportunity cost and making other parts of your solar design/installation worse b/c you had less time on it?

And then you can focus your time on optimizing/fixing little things. Like with the drawings that I got, I'm just optimizing portrait/landscape arrangement here and there to be easier.

EDIT: Now even if you're under an AHJ with simplified permitting requirements where you don't even need to submit racking plan, let alone engineering stamps (California has been trending to this over the past 10 years and sometimes has an aggressive push to reduce further). In that case you can argue that paying for complete planset is a superfluous expense. Sure, a solar installer would then just guesstimate a plan to figure out the BOM to send with the installers, and let them figure it out. But people generally don't know anything as a first time DIY so IMO you want as complete of plans as possible.

I guess I could subcontract it out but I'm not sure who to go with yet. I was trying out the Ironridge planning tool to see if it would give me an estimate of size/cost. But I haven't purchased my panels yet and I notice that the racking is going to change layout depending on the size of the panels I get. I was trying to determine how many I could fit on the roof but I don't know what spacing I need from the roof peak and edge of the building are. I read 3 foot clearance according to the City of Phoenix fire code but I think that might be for commercial properties. Is 3 foot clearance pretty standard for a single family property? If it's 3 foot, that's going to reduce the number of panels I could put up and possibly the size of my system.
 
The cost of racking is typically proportional to the horizontal length of a row of panels. IE Portrait orientation costs less than landscape. You need a rack foot within cantilever span of each span. 24" is probably a conservative lower bound for cantilever span. If you have a lot of isolated panels you have to pay a lot of extra because feet are not shared across adjacent panels. For an infinite length row in portrait orientation you would need 2 feet per panel. Landscape orientation requires more rail length, and generally the length of a panel requires foot to be exactly in the middle to have any hope of clamps being within cantilever limit. And of course it can't exactly be in the middle because they have to go where your framing is.

In California it's 3 feet at ridge (both sides), with reduction to 18" for smaller installations/sprinkler homes, and 3 feet access path (single one per plane) from eaves to ridge. Valleys can be used & shared between two roof planes. I don't know what the rules will be in your state. There are lots of visual aids you can find online on fire access routes. It's easier than reading text in the code or poorly written in forum posts.
 
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