Solar suitcase
- Thread starter KenAK
- Start date
Could we see the back of it?? I want to see the hinges
Rider
Solar Addict
Thank You! You just gave me a great idea for a frame for my portable panel that still fits in the pop-up camper carrier.
Big_Daddy_75
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2019
- Messages
- 1
Great Job! Thinking about building one myself, where did you locate your charge controller?
MrNatural22
?SW sunshine =⚡️⚡️lit up thru the darkness✌️
Wow that’s the ticket! After going thru two 100w flex panels in a year (done with that junk) your design Using solid panels is very well put together.
Which brand panels are you using and the appx. weight of the complete set up?
eddie1261
Solar Enthusiast
Solid construction job. Very accurate.
Bigbillsd
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2019
- Messages
- 197
Wow, looks like what I built about 18 months ago to figure out how solar worked 2 each Home Depot $89 100w grape solar panels, hinges, handles and a custom built aluminum legs from 1/2" aluminum angle also from HD and pop riveted together. I wired them in series to lower the amperage on the 10 AWG wires and mounted the Victron MPPT 75/15 in my inverter compartment. I have an area behind the battery door that is open to the bottom and mounted a quick connect you should be able to see in one of the pictures, its the little red thingy. -Bill
Oh yeah, I am probably going to sell them and make new lighter ones out of flexible panels. We were boondocking a lot in Alaska and they were getting heavy taking them in an out all the time. Especially now that those Renogy Flexibles have gotten so cheap this month.
Oh yeah, I am probably going to sell them and make new lighter ones out of flexible panels. We were boondocking a lot in Alaska and they were getting heavy taking them in an out all the time. Especially now that those Renogy Flexibles have gotten so cheap this month.
Attachments
Last edited:
Bigbillsd
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2019
- Messages
- 197
If only you were in SoCal, I would sell you mine as they are just to heavy to keep taking them in and out. I will be making my next ones from the Renogy Flexibles. Since that is what I mounted on my RV roof over a year ago I know how to design portables that will stand up. My only quandry is do I build the with 100w or 160w panels.
MrNatural22
?SW sunshine =⚡️⚡️lit up thru the darkness✌️
Nicely done!! Clean setup. Looks like your using a red Anderson connector. Great connectors, but not cheap.
I use XT90 (90amp and can solder a 10g wire easily) connectors on my panel disconnects inside out of the weather and standard MC4 connectors on the short leads from the panels.
I use XT90 (90amp and can solder a 10g wire easily) connectors on my panel disconnects inside out of the weather and standard MC4 connectors on the short leads from the panels.
SanTan Solar
https://store.santansolar.com/?ref=danmartin
I was going to ask the same thing. I know a normal 250W panel weighs about 50 lbs, so is there a benefit to doing 2 100W panels? I mean weight would make the most sense.
Also, is this something you could do with bigger panels you think?
MrNatural22
?SW sunshine =⚡️⚡️lit up thru the darkness✌️
Well portability is what folding panels are great for. Most 100w glass panels weigh appx. 16lbs each x 2 = 32lbs plus hinges and stand. Not a lot of weight and if you have space, easy to store and transport. I think bigger panels would be difficult for portability.
Bigbillsd
New Member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2019
- Messages
- 197
Yes, smaller is better for the portability part. My suitcase weighs in at almost 40 lbs. Most of the weight is probably the glass. I made a shelf to store them on in the basement of my RV. When the slides are deployed on the coach its very awkward to pull the suitcase out while ducking under the slide and my biggest concern is that I will break the glass one of these days. Same with putting them away.
Hence remaking a suitcase with lightweight renogy flexible s, probably glued to either foam-board as a backing or that poly carbonate panel material I have seen. Also, don't forget to make some sort of hold down for the suitcase. I have deployed mine in some incredibly windy areas while camping. Tucson in the spring last year while boondocking at the Escapade had a day where I could almost not open the front door of the RV due to the wind howling past. I could get out but my wife couldn't without me holding the door open for her.
I made four short pieces of cabling with loops on the ends so I could use a 6" x 1/2" lag screw to secure them to the ground when needed. I use those same screws to secure my exterior carpeting also. -Bill
Hence remaking a suitcase with lightweight renogy flexible s, probably glued to either foam-board as a backing or that poly carbonate panel material I have seen. Also, don't forget to make some sort of hold down for the suitcase. I have deployed mine in some incredibly windy areas while camping. Tucson in the spring last year while boondocking at the Escapade had a day where I could almost not open the front door of the RV due to the wind howling past. I could get out but my wife couldn't without me holding the door open for her.
I made four short pieces of cabling with loops on the ends so I could use a 6" x 1/2" lag screw to secure them to the ground when needed. I use those same screws to secure my exterior carpeting also. -Bill
Hello, I hope I'm posting in the right spot (new member) - please let me know if not. I see the question asked above but I don't see the answer.
I'm looking to build a 200 watt solar suitcase (2 - 100 watt panels in series, I think) with an MPPT controller and 25 feet 10g solar wire back to the 2-6 volt batteries on my trailer (which is "pre-wired" for solar but I may have to beef up the wiring). I would like to attach the controller directly to the solar panels to keep it all simple and together as a unit. From my readings, the controller should be close to, not far from, the batteries.
Any rough estimate of % loss I might get by not putting the controller near the battery (with proper wiring)? If it's 10%, I can live with that. But if I'm wasting 50% of the potential charging energy, I won't be so lazy. Lord knows there aren't many sunny days in Vancouver, BC.
Thanks, Dave
I'm looking to build a 200 watt solar suitcase (2 - 100 watt panels in series, I think) with an MPPT controller and 25 feet 10g solar wire back to the 2-6 volt batteries on my trailer (which is "pre-wired" for solar but I may have to beef up the wiring). I would like to attach the controller directly to the solar panels to keep it all simple and together as a unit. From my readings, the controller should be close to, not far from, the batteries.
Any rough estimate of % loss I might get by not putting the controller near the battery (with proper wiring)? If it's 10%, I can live with that. But if I'm wasting 50% of the potential charging energy, I won't be so lazy. Lord knows there aren't many sunny days in Vancouver, BC.
Thanks, Dave
Your 200 watts of solar go to the MPPT which will send something greater than 12v to your batteries. 200w divided by 12+ volts will be around 16 amps.
So you have 16 amps through 50 feet of 10 g wire. Let me google an online calculator and I will edit this.
According to this: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
You have a fire hazard trying to put that amperage through 50 feet of 10g wire.
So you have 16 amps through 50 feet of 10 g wire. Let me google an online calculator and I will edit this.
According to this: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
You have a fire hazard trying to put that amperage through 50 feet of 10g wire.
Last edited:
Thanks Joe,
Renogy has one here. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Portable-Waterproof-Controller/dp/B073W1S43K
that I thought could basically copy for a lot less $ with better parts. Fire hazard is not good.
Dave
Renogy has one here. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Portable-Waterproof-Controller/dp/B073W1S43K
that I thought could basically copy for a lot less $ with better parts. Fire hazard is not good.
Dave
Sorry I didn’t explain the cable distance better but here is a table based on “one way” distance.
Based on your link to Amazon it looks like they sell it with 9 feet of wire attached which is about all you should have for 10g.
The power lost (5-10% in your original question) is typically generating heat in the wires, hence the fire risk.
If you need the longer distance then bigger wire is a good investment. As this link states, 24v or even 48v helps the wire size problem but I think you intended to stay with a 12v nominal system.
Based on your link to Amazon it looks like they sell it with 9 feet of wire attached which is about all you should have for 10g.
The power lost (5-10% in your original question) is typically generating heat in the wires, hence the fire risk.
If you need the longer distance then bigger wire is a good investment. As this link states, 24v or even 48v helps the wire size problem but I think you intended to stay with a 12v nominal system.
Last edited:
