Someone told me to buy these, now what?? Need help with lug connectors

[JeepHammer]

That's 2,000 operational capacity, 4,000 Surge?
I mistakenly thought you were giving a size range between 2,000 to 4,000 Watts.

OK, if it were mine, and I do screw up from time to time, I would 'Average' the cable size around 3,000 Watts.
That's 000 Ga, (3/0) cables.

12 volt battery/batteries,
That's 250 amp draw at 3,000 Watts (000 Ga.- 3/0), still not maxed out the cable.
That's 167 amp draw at 2,000 Watts (1 Ga), maximum continuous rating for that inverter,
With any energy efficiency at all, you will probably be drawing more in the neighborhood of 1,000/1,500 Watts,
That's 84 and 125 amps respectively, which leaves a HUGE capacity under normal usage.

I would use a 250 or 275 amp breaker on 000 Ga.- 3/0 cable, but I would mount it at the battery if the battery is 'In Doors'
If the battery is in a battery compartment I would armor the cable from battery to interior, and mount the breaker where the armor stops inside.

-----------------

Now, when you say you have two battle born 100 Ah batteries, are you using both to power the inverter at 12 volts?
Or are you going to do EXACTLY like the picture and use one for the vehicle starting/charging?

 

[Santa]

That's 2,000 operational capacity, 4,000 Surge?
I mistakenly thought you were giving a size range between 2,000 to 4,000 Watts.

OK, if it were mine, and I do screw up from time to time, I would 'Average' the cable size around 3,000 Watts.
That's 000 Ga, (3/0) cables.

12 volt battery/batteries,
That's 250 amp draw at 3,000 Watts (000 Ga.- 3/0), still not maxed out the cable.
That's 167 amp draw at 2,000 Watts (1 Ga), maximum continuous rating for that inverter,
With any energy efficiency at all, you will probably be drawing more in the neighborhood of 1,000/1,500 Watts,
That's 84 and 125 amps respectively, which leaves a HUGE capacity under normal usage.

I would use a 250 or 275 amp breaker on 000 Ga.- 3/0 cable, but I would mount it at the battery if the battery is 'In Doors'
If the battery is in a battery compartment I would armor the cable from battery to interior, and mount the breaker where the armor stops inside.

-----------------

Now, when you say you have two battle born 100 Ah batteries, are you using both to power the inverter at 12 volts?
Or are you going to do EXACTLY like the picture and use one for the vehicle starting/charging?

Yes, 2000 - 4000Peak inverter, I am starting with just 2 100Ah battleborns in parallel now, later will add starting battery (EDIT: so it won't be EXACTLY in the beginning - I will hook to starting battery when its in the vehicle, then it will. Sorry for any confusion.)

 

[SolarRat]

For that size inverter I'd be running those batteries in series for 24v. And this talk about hooking to your starting battery, what's that about? Before you do that ask for advice.

 

[Santa]

For that size inverter I'd be running those batteries in series for 24v. And this talk about hooking to your starting battery, what's that about? Before you do that ask for advice.

OMG!! Does anyone look at Will's blueprint I linked here???? He personally told me the batteries HAVE to be in 12V ONLY in his youtube video comments. Watch here:

 

[SolarRat]

OMG!! Does anyone look at Will's blueprint I linked here???? He personally told me the batteries HAVE to be in 12V ONLY in his youtube video comments.

I'll watch when I get a chance. But a LFP starting battery will kill your alternator, I guess that is what the Renogy is supposed to solve? I'll watch after dinner...

And I don't know what blueprint you are talking about. I thought this thread was about cable lugs?

 

[CheezWiz]

I'll watch when I get a chance. But a LFP starting battery will kill your alternator, I guess that is what the Renogy is supposed to solve? I'll watch after dinner...

And I don't know what blueprint you are talking about. I thought this thread was about cable lugs?

 

[offgriddle]

My local Lowes stocks them in all large sizes in copper, cheap! I use them a lot when experimenting with different configurations. I usually use dielectric grease on the wire before installing. Sometimes I tin the ends of the wire first.

A dielectric is a non conductor of electricity which is not a good thing to use when you want to make a good electricial connection. Maybe look at switching to conductive grease which still guards against moisture and the corrosion caused by moisture, while not presenting a potential for impeding the flow of electricial current by getting in between conductors and contacts and acting as an insulator? https://www.mcmaster.com/conductive-grease

 

[offgriddle]

The connector is very commonly used for ground and neutral connections on electricial panels and such. Not sure how you would affix such a connector to SCC terminals.

 

[SolarRat]

A dielectric is a non conductor of electricity which is not a good thing to use when you want to make a good electricial connection. Maybe look at switching to conductive grease which still guards against moisture and the corrosion caused by moisture, while not presenting a potential for impeding the flow of electricial current by getting in between conductors and contacts? https://www.mcmaster.com/conductive-grease

I'm not relying on the DE to make a good connection, that's mechanical pressure's job. You have to be careful using any type of conductive grease in the heat...it melts and runs places you may not want it.

 

[SolarRat]

View attachment 2140

Thanks. As long as that starter battery is lead acid there's no problem. A lithium there would probably kill the alternator.

 

[offgriddle]

I'm not relying on the DE to make a good connection, that's mechanical pressure's job. You have to be careful using any type of conductive grease in the heat...it melts and runs places you may not want it.

Correct, you are not relying on the DE to make a good connection because it's not a conductor at all, it is an insulator! It's all good, at least your keeping the corrosion down. Carry on.

 

[SolarRat]

Correct, you are not relying on the DE to make a good connection because it's not a conductor at all, it is an insulator! It's all good, at least your keeping the corrosion down. Carry on.

You are correct, it should be used on the outside of the connection.

 

[Santa]

I put the blueprint and the video of what i am installing AT MY ORIGINAL POST, only for now i only have (2) 100ah battleborns. I will connect it to my starting battery LATER and add another Battleborn later. I didn't know this question would turn into so much confusion about grease and no grease, etc...etc...the person who told me to buy the lugs just bought land and is there sleeping in his small vehicle about to start a homestead, i didn't want to bother him and use his bandwidth, but i think im going to have to.

 

[offgriddle]

I put the blueprint and the video of what i am installing AT MY ORIGINAL POST, only for now i only have (2) 100ah battleborns. I will connect it to my starting battery LATER and add another Battleborn later

I just watched Will's video of opening up a battleborn battery. Of course the quality of the individual cells are unknown due to lack of manufacturing identity and the BMS wasn't dissected and examined which means the consumer is going to have to trust that battleborn selected the highest quality components. But judging from the case construction and heavy wiring along with Will's positive interaction with a highly knowledgeable staff at battleborn, it's highly plausible that other quality components were also used.

 

[Santa]

I just watched Will's video of opening up a battleborn battery. Of course the quality of the individual cells are unknown due to lack of manufacturing identity and the BMS wasn't dissected and examined which means the consumer is going to have to trust that battleborn selected the highest quality components. But judging from the case construction and heavy wiring along with Will's positive interaction with a highly knowledgeable staff at battleborn, it's highly plausible that other quality components were also used.

WHAT?? That's not the video in my post...

 

[offgriddle]

WHAT?? That's not the video in my post...

Oops sorry, I got mixed up I'm sure,but that one was a great video too!

 

[Santa]

I'll watch when I get a chance. But a LFP starting battery will kill your alternator, I guess that is what the Renogy is supposed to solve? I'll watch after dinner...

And I don't know what blueprint you are talking about. I thought this thread was about cable lugs?

RV Solar Power Blue Prints

Building a vehicle mounted solar power system? Let me help.

www.mobile-solarpower.com

 

[JeepHammer]

If I may lay out The Confusion,

1. This lug is in question.
Apparently the inverter doesn't support 000 (3/0) Ga. or 0000 (4/0) Ga. cables and will need an oversize lug connected to the inverter terminal to accept a bare cable (no ring terminal that bolts directly on).

For cable ends I would have recommended something practical, like a plated, solid copper that would carry the current, but the Original Poster (OP) give details and we had to guess at application.



2. GREASE.
The lug above was still in dispute, could very well have been used in a wet/rain/corrosive environment, and it's common usage to use protective coatings on lugs/terminals/exposed conductors.

Oxidation/Corrosion control grease is conductive, you DO NOT use conductive grease where it can migrate (run) from one terminal to another. Period.
(See picture of stacked terminals on inverter & charge controller.
Non-conductive Dielectric grease or other non-conductive terminal protector when multiple terminals are in close proximity.

On copper wires you can 'Tin' the wire, or you can use a little dielectric grease.
As mentioned above, dielectric grease is very low viscosity and the mechanical force of the screw terminal will make a fine connection in spite of the grease.

For those that think dielectric grease will inhibit a connection, I would point out the best quality terminals that crush, mash and screw terminal types come Pre-Loaded with Dielectric grease...

 

[JeepHammer]

3. The OP insisted repeatedly that they were going to use the diagram given without exception.

Notice the "Size These Wires/Breaker To Inverter Size"?
This is what I was attempting to do with the OP when the posts started up...

After some clarification,
This is a 2,000 Watt nominal (4,000 Surge) inverter.

4,000 watt output in surge is a 333.33 Amp load draw, discounting line resistance & inverter losses.
(4,000 Watts ÷ 12 VDC = 333.333 Amps)
0000 (4/0) AWG cable will only handle 312 Amps @ 100% Duty Cycle.

At nominal operation maximum of 2,000 Watts,
(2,000 Watts ÷ 12 VDC = 166.666 Amps)
0 (1/0) AWG will easily handle 167 Amps, 100% duty cycle of 0 (1/0) AWG is 185 Amps.

An intermediate cable size for about 3,000 Watts (between 2,000 nominal & 4,000 extreme upper limit),
(3,000 Watts ÷ 12 VDC = 250 Amps, will NOT be continuous)
000 (3/0) AWG will support 262 Amps on 100% Duty Cycle,and should support higher draw on a very short basis.

4. From the image above you will notice the inverter circuit breaker is well away from the battery (power source) and leave unprotected high amperage cable.
Since this will wind up in an RV/Camper I was *Trying* to get the OP to armor the unprotected cable with conduit,
OR,
Put the breaker at the battery for safety.

Again, this is personal experience, as much of energized wiring as is humanly possible SHOULD be protected because life (shit) does happen.
From sharp edge rub through, to rodents, to vehicle accidents, life happens... Fuses & Breakers are cheap!

 

[offgriddle]

If I may lay out The Confusion,

1. This lug is in question.
Apparently the inverter doesn't support 000 (3/0) Ga. or 0000 (4/0) Ga. cables and will need an oversize lug connected to the inverter terminal to accept a bare cable (no ring terminal that bolts directly on).

For cable ends I would have recommended something practical, like a plated, solid copper that would carry the current, but the Original Poster (OP) give details and we had to guess at application.

View attachment 2158

2. GREASE.
The lug above was still in dispute, could very well have been used in a wet/rain/corrosive environment, and it's common usage to use protective coatings on lugs/terminals/exposed conductors.

Oxidation/Corrosion control grease is conductive, you DO NOT use conductive grease where it can migrate (run) from one terminal to another. Period.
(See picture of stacked terminals on inverter & charge controller.
Non-conductive Dielectric grease or other non-conductive terminal protector when multiple terminals are in close proximity.

On copper wires you can 'Tin' the wire, or you can use a little dielectric grease.
As mentioned above, dielectric grease is very low viscosity and the mechanical force of the screw terminal will make a fine connection in spite of the grease.

For those that think dielectric grease will inhibit a connection, I would point out the best quality terminals that crush, mash and screw terminal types come Pre-Loaded with Dielectric grease...

Dielectric grease is non conductive and if used properly and in the appropriate circumstances okay as long as it does not form an insulating layer between & amongst the conductors and the connection. ~ When a manufacturer provides a wire terminal connection on a device it is unwise to take it upon ourselves to modify and exceed the gauge, therefore, potential amperage of the connector as built.