Victron 12/1200VA

[grizzzman]

This unit has the GFCI receptacle on the unit. At just over 1200 watts ( coffee maker running, starlink, TV etc running the GFCI tripped just as the coffee finished.
The trailer already has a GFCI. Has anyone removed the GFCI from one of these units?
Why would the GFCI trip? Perhaps the heat generated from the high load?

 

[chrisski]

This unit has the GFCI receptacle on the unit. At just over 1200 watts ( coffee maker running, starlink, TV etc running the GFCI tripped just as the coffee finished.
The trailer already has a GFCI. Has anyone removed the GFCI from one of these units?
Why would the GFCI trip? Perhaps the heat generated from the high load?

Sounds like you were pushing the limits. The inverter is 1000 watts constant, and seems 1200 watts for a coffee maker could be 5 minutes. When mine has faulted, the ref light was blinking on the back of the inverter. Different fault than yours.

The 1200 VA inverter comes with a choice of recepticals and voltages. I actually had to look a little to find the model that came with the two prong GFCI plug.

I have wondered if this would change out easily or not.

 

[Brucey]

This unit has the GFCI receptacle on the unit. At just over 1200 watts ( coffee maker running, starlink, TV etc running the GFCI tripped just as the coffee finished.
The trailer already has a GFCI. Has anyone removed the GFCI from one of these units?
Why would the GFCI trip? Perhaps the heat generated from the high load?

What is the battery bank that's connected to it, and the wiring? I made sure my 48/1200 was old school no GFCI to avoid possible complications like this.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

the GFCI tripped just as the coffee finished

Why would the GFCI trip?

When the coffeemaker heating element cycled off “as the coffee finished” there was a moment in time where some pixies didn’t have a destination and an imbalance H to N happened.

It may not happen again consistently, but it could. Annoying perhaps, but not necessarily a safety concern.

The trailer already has a GFCI. Has anyone removed the GFCI from one of these units?

actually had to look a little to find the model that came with the two prong GFCI

Is it possible to return and purchase a different Victron model?

That would be my first answer.
The second- and perhaps preferable- would be to return and get a 2000W

(fwiw I have had the GFCI on my generator trip, and sometimes both it and the GFCI in the camper trip, when starting my tablesaw when it is plugged into the generator. My MPP AIO automatically goes into grid-source charge mode when the generator is started because it’s always connected. It’s just the surge imbalance, related but unlike your issue)

 

[timselectric]

If it's a standard GFCI receptacle, it can be swapped for a Decora style.

 

[grizzzman]

What is the battery bank that's connected to it,

150 AH DIY bank LFP that is 5 years old connected to a 208 FLA CG2 bank that ran that coffee maker for 5 years. Using a cheap 2000 watt msw inverter.Then I added 3 100AH DC House batteries, removed the msw unit, installed the blue unit ( and other blue stuff ).

and the wiring?

Each bank has 4AWG going to a common bus bar (500 amp) then from the bus bar 2AWG to the inverter.

I made sure my 48/1200 was old school no GFCI to avoid possible complications like this.

See post below this one.

 

[grizzzman]

When the coffeemaker heating element cycled off “as the coffee finished” there was a moment in time where some pixies didn’t have a destination and an imbalance H to N happened.

Damn them pixies!

It may not happen again consistently, but it could. Annoying perhaps, but not necessarily a safety concern.

I shut down the Starlink and the TV this morning and the coffee maker pulled just over 1100 watts and completed brewing.

Is it possible to return and purchase a different Victron model?

As it is now used, not likely.

That would be my first answer.
The second- and perhaps preferable- would be to return and get a 2000W

This may happen, but it is more likely that I will just open it up and bypass the GFCI.

(fwiw I have had the GFCI on my generator trip, and sometimes both it and the GFCI in the camper trip, when starting my tablesaw when it is plugged into the generator. My MPP AIO automatically goes into grid-source charge mode when the generator is started because it’s always connected. It’s just the surge imbalance, related but unlike your issue)

 

[grizzzman]

If it's a standard GFCI receptacle, it can be swapped for a Decora style.

Thank you I will look into this.

 

[Brucey]

Wonder if you can power the starlink from 12V so you don't have to have an outage each time you brew up.

 

[timselectric]

If it's a smaller TV monitor. It probably runs on 12vdc through an adapter.
And could also be powered directly from the battery.

 

[grizzzman]

Wonder if you can power the starlink from 12V so you don't have to have an outage each time you brew up.

A while ago I picked up everything to convert to 12 volts but then the Starlink failed 2 months out of warranty. They gave me a new system n/c. In the early days you cut the cable to adapt to it. They would not have warrantied the unit if it was modified. Now there are components that do not require modding the cable. I will once again look into it.

 

[grizzzman]

If it's a smaller TV monitor. It probably runs on 12vdc through an adapter.
And could also be powered directly from the battery.

It is a 32" unit that does not use a brick.

 

[grizzzman]

Here is an update. I have converted the Echo dot, the Bose sound bar the router to 12 volts. I purchased the bits to convert the Starlink to 12 volts.
This will sit behind the TV in the entertainment center.

 

[grizzzman]

I installed it this morning and had some issues. The TV picture was horrible and the echo dot was cutting out during music play back. I pulled the fuse and installed a jumper direct to the 12 volts source. This solved the issue. I built a fused jumper to bypass the noisy 8-30 volt to 12 volts 3 amp converter for now then figure how to clean up the dirty converter(s) At this point I believe it was messing with the WiFi part of the router. I have a trip coming up so next week I will pull out the DSO and have a look.

 

[chrisski]

I installed it this morning and had some issues. The TV picture was horrible and the echo dot was cutting out during music play back. I pulled the fuse and installed a jumper direct to the 12 volts source. This solved the issue. I built a fused jumper to bypass the noisy 8-30 volt to 12 volts 3 amp converter for now then figure how to clean up the dirty converter(s) At this point I believe it was messing with the WiFi part of the router. I have a trip coming up so next week I will pull out the DSO and have a look.

Is the TV have problems in normal mode?

I have noticed in ECO mode, the 1200 VA will fault out with low loads. I have a 23 watt load cycling on and off 44 times a second (a vibratory rock Tumbler), and the 1200 VA will fault in ECO mode, but run just fine in normal mode.

I use ANL fuses that are ABYC rated for main battery protect, not the less expensive "stereo" ANL fuses. and I have run loads up to 400 watts constant on my 1200 VA. I have not tried this with electronics yet.

 

[Brucey]

Is the TV have problems in normal mode?

I have noticed in ECO mode, the 1200 VA will fault out with low loads. I have a 23 watt load cycling on and off 44 times a second (a vibratory rock Tumbler), and the 1200 VA will fault in ECO mode, but run just fine in normal mode.

I use ANL fuses that are ABYC rated for main battery protect, not the less expensive "stereo" ANL fuses. and I have run loads up to 400 watts constant on my 1200 VA. I have not tried this with electronics yet.

In the latest firmware you can adjust the search timing for eco mode (or maybe it was always there)?

 

[chrisski]

In the latest firmware you can adjust the search timing for eco mode (or maybe it was always there)?

View attachment 212469

I have not hooked up the VRM to make adjustments.

 

[grizzzman]

Is the TV have problems in normal mode?

I have noticed in ECO mode, the 1200 VA will fault out with low loads. I have a 23 watt load cycling on and off 44 times a second (a vibratory rock Tumbler), and the 1200 VA will fault in ECO mode, but run just fine in normal mode.

I use ANL fuses that are ABYC rated for main battery protect, not the less expensive "stereo" ANL fuses. and I have run loads up to 400 watts constant on my 1200 VA. I have not tried this with electronics yet.

Thanks but I had the inverter set to on.