Victron is Over-priced Eurotrash. Why would anybody buy Victron over an AiO?

[Buzz Lighting]

I initially bought both the Lynx Class-T Power in and M10 Lynx Distributor thinking that I could’ve come up with a clean looking connection using a 1000A Smart Shunt in between but after all the research, a bit too tall at 2.7”to line up with the Power In and Distributor at about 1.25”. Although, I could’ve made it work and install a switch on the positive side above like in my RV but decided against the whole idea as it would’ve taken more space. Instead, I sent back the M10 Distributor and got a regular M8 Distributor with a Lynx Shunt and figured that it would be easier to modify it and only dealing with two connections versus four. The actual M10 cover are a bit bulkier than the M8 covers on the Lynx shunt and Distributor.

 

[NC_hydro]

I initially bought both the Lynx Class-T Power in and M10 Lynx Distributor thinking that I could’ve come up with a clean looking connection using a 1000A Smart Shunt in between but after all the research, a bit too tall at 2.7”to line up with the Power In and Distributor at about 1.25”. Although, I could’ve made it work and install a switch on the positive side above like in my RV but decided against the whole idea as it would’ve taken more space. Instead, I sent back the M10 Distributor and got a regular M8 Distributor with a Lynx Shunt and figured that it would be easier to modify it and only dealing with two connections versus four. The actual M10 cover are a bit bulkier than the M8 covers on the Lynx shunt and Distributor.

Couldn't you install the M8 items on something that makes them the same height? Like a backer of some sort. Thanks for posting pictures. I'm looking at doing this same thing for my setup. Where did you order your Class-T power in?

 

[740GLE]

So the class T Lynx has a fair amount of vents, I wonder how much heat they are expecting for just 2 fuses vs 4 the mega fuses of the power in.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

Couldn't you install the M8 items on something that makes them the same height? Like a backer of some sort. Thanks for posting pictures. I'm looking at doing this same thing for my setup. Where did you order your Class-T power in?

I’m a bit OCD and it really doesn’t look too bad so I’m just going to let it be. Right now the bussbars line up perfectly so putting something on the back will offset that and I want full contact on both bussbars.

Thanks to your link - I got it from the UK. I ordered on Friday and it got here yesterday. Shipping part sucked though but I’m trying to get the smaller stuff out of the way on my build and keep things moving along. I looked to the UK before when I thought of purchasing two newer Victron Orion XS’ to replace my two older 50A Victron Buck Boosts for the van but decided against it. Of course Europe gets the Victron goodies first.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

So the class T Lynx has a fair amount of vents, I wonder how much heat they are expecting for just 2 fuses vs 4 the mega fuses of the power in.

Yup, a lot of vents especially on the back.

 

[740GLE]

I’m a bit OCD and it really doesn’t look too bad so I’m just going to let it be. Right now the bussbars line up perfectly so putting something on the back will offset that and I want full contact on both bussbars.

Thanks to your link - I got it from the UK. I ordered on Friday and it got here yesterday. Shipping part sucked though but I’m trying to get the smaller stuff out of the way on my build and keep things moving along. I looked to the UK before when I thought of purchasing two newer Victron Orion XS’ to replace my two older 50A Victron Buck Boosts for the van but decided against it. Of course Europe gets the Victron goodies first.

So the bus bars line up no issues but it’s the class T cover that just protrudes more that is rubbing you the wrong way?

That’d be a tough one for me to pass on.

 

[NC_hydro]

I’m a bit OCD and it really doesn’t look too bad so I’m just going to let it be. Right now the bussbars line up perfectly so putting something on the back will offset that and I want full contact on both bussbars.

Thanks to your link - I got it from the UK. I ordered on Friday and it got here yesterday. Shipping part sucked though but I’m trying to get the smaller stuff out of the way on my build and keep things moving along. I looked to the UK before when I thought of purchasing two newer Victron Orion XS’ to replace my two older 50A Victron Buck Boosts for the van but decided against it. Of course Europe gets the Victron goodies first.

Oh, so the busbars lined up correctly but the casing was mismatched? If so I think that's the route I'll do for my 4 Trophy batteries with two of the Class-T power in.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

So the bus bars line up no issues but it’s the class T cover that just protrudes more that is rubbing you the wrong way?

That’d be a tough one for me to pass on.

Haha, yup I did say that I was OCD.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

Oh, so the busbars lined up correctly but the casing was mismatched? If so I think that's the route I'll do for my 4 Trophy batteries with two of the Class-T power in.

Yes, you're good with the bussbars lining up.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

Some additional close up pics:

 

[Brucey]

So the class T Lynx has a fair amount of vents, I wonder how much heat they are expecting for just 2 fuses vs 4 the mega fuses of the power in.

Do they run hot in normal operation? Or just when they get a big surge and trip?

 

[NC_hydro]

WIth 4 Trophy 300Ah batteries and two 10kVa Quattro's I think I would need 2 Class-T in, the lynx shunt and 1 Lynx Distributor. Presuming the distributor could handle 2 Quattro's and one RS 450/200 or two RS 450/100.

Two Class-T In and one M10 Distributor ordered. Guess it's time to get the CC order rolling.

 

[JoeHam]

Do they run hot in normal operation? Or just when they get a big surge and trip?

They shouldn’t run hot in normal operation, that would be a significant amount of wasted energy .

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

Do they run hot in normal operation? Or just when they get a big surge and trip?

maybe to let things cools off if a fuse blows? give it space for the heat to dissipate vice plastic melting from trapped heat? just thoughts.

 

[Brucey]

maybe to let things cools off if a fuse blows? give it space for the heat to dissipate vice plastic melting from trapped heat? just thoughts.

This thread got into the numbers. Seems like a 600A class T at 600A could be dissipating around 35W, that's worst case so smaller loads would be less, but makes sense why there's so much venting versus the relatively sealed power ins and distributors.

Class T Fuse watts loss or series resistance

I can't find these specs on any Class T fuse data sheet. Why should they be ignored or hidden? Is it no worse than a wire? LET, LMT fuses have a Watt Loss spec. About 20w for 200A thru a 400A fuse. Equates to 0.0005 ohms. Loss seems excessive. Someone with good equipment could do a 4 wire ohm...

diysolarforum.com

But this marine class t comes with an insulating plastic cover...

 

[Daddy Tanuki]

my class T fuses are 80 amp marine units with hard composite bases and the wires go directly into the fuse blocks with a 3/8's set screw.

Blocks w/fuses were hijacked from the scavenge bin at the local ships repair facility. They have the 20k interrupt and are good to 160 volts DC but no covers. originally they were 3 fuse gang blocks that I used a band saw to separate into singles. At that time I could not find any online vendors of Class T that were that low of amperage and I wanted a separate fuse for each bank. To date the max I have pulled from the banks and through the inverter was about 42 amps or so. would have preferred a 60 amp unit but it is what it is.

 

[Ron-ski]

But this marine class t comes with an insulating plastic cover...

Most of the heat would be dissipated down the cables I suspect.