diy solar

diy solar

What voltage should I be seeing?

I finally got the WizBang required and was wondering if my SOC will ever reach 100% when the batteries are under load? I got to 95% today with still plenty of sunlight left to charge the batteries or is the last 5% normally charged via the Float setting.

If you have more solar than loads, yes, but the shunt must be programmed and working properly.

I checked the manual, and I can't see the option to specify charge voltage and tail current, so I assume it must pull that from the Classic charge controller.

Do you have your charge termination criteria set correctly in your Classic? From the classic manual:

1701890989801.png
 
If you have more solar than loads, yes, but the shunt must be programmed and working properly.

I checked the manual, and I can't see the option to specify charge voltage and tail current, so I assume it must pull that from the Classic charge controller.

Do you have your charge termination criteria set correctly in your Classic? From the classic manual:

View attachment 181444
Ok. I have set to 1% of my 180Ah capacity but I just looked at my battery specs and it calls for 0.32 amps. The spec sheet is just for one 12V battery, so would I make it 1.28 amps for my 48V system?
 
Ok. I have set to 1% of my 180Ah capacity but I just looked at my battery specs and it calls for 0.32 amps. The spec sheet is just for one 12V battery, so would I make it 1.28 amps for my 48V system?

0.32A on a 180Ah battery is insane. That's absolutely crazy. Most lead-acid termination is 1-3%. Can you link the data?
 
Ah... I forgot these AGM batteries charge to only 14.1V each. Okay, 0.32A it is, and yes, that's per battery. I would round up to 2A.

It may be very difficult for you to truly hit 100% simply because of the amount of time it takes for the charge current to drop to that level.

I think I mentioned it before, but when at 56.4V, it is critically important that NO 12V is over 14.1V. If you find any over 14.1V, you need to lower charge voltage to whatever is needed to keep the highest battery from exceeding 14.1V.
 
Ah... I forgot these AGM batteries charge to only 14.1V each. Okay, 0.32A it is, and yes, that's per battery. I would round up to 2A.

It may be very difficult for you to truly hit 100% simply because of the amount of time it takes for the charge current to drop to that level.

I think I mentioned it before, but when at 56.4V, it is critically important that NO 12V is over 14.1V. If you find any over 14.1V, you need to lower charge voltage to whatever is needed to keep the highest battery from exceeding 14.1V.
Sounds good. Is there any way to measure the 14.1 V without disconnecting the batteries from each other?
 
A value of -30 makes absolutely no sense whatsoever in any scenario.

It depends completely on how the Midnite accepts it. If it wants a per cell value, you enter -3mV/cell/°C. If it wants a total, you have 24 cells, so -3 * 24 = -72mV/°C.

Based on my interpretation of the manual, it is a PER CELL value, so you should enter -3.
Per Alte/Kilovault 12 volt bank is -30 or -5 per cell. 48 volt would be 24 cells or 120mv/degree Celsius . I have a 24 volt bank with 4 Kilovault series/parallel. My temperature compensation is -60mv/degree C
 
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