Recent content by Boomerweps

My 3210 is powered by the battery and as long as the battery is connected, the display works. Once the battery bank is fully charged, I can read the voltage only of the solar panels, no amps shown because no power is drawn from the panels for charging. Initially it was confusing to me, too...

Once you know the obstruction zone on the Starlink, why not just top the trees in the way? Less trees hanging over your cabin means less storm damage in high winds. Mounting anything to a growing tree is asking for problems in the future. Short term solution at best. If it’s a Gen three antenna...

I was reminded recently that I fail to mention the CIGS comparative cost when I recommend them. They are 2-3X the cost of standard panels for a savvy shopper. The simple install, flexibility and ability to take a beating were worth it to me, but I only buy them when on sale, too. Removal. Use a...

WOW! Just WOW! Well, the fuse worked… But the power was high enough to arc over the melted fuse. And that continued long enough to set a fire. I’d contact the fuse maker. Too short a section that actually melts away from the fuse tabs.

Decided to go the easiest route, and do nothing (to the existing panels & SCC). Likely mount the Victron 75/15 in my TT near the other Solar and add another side inlet for ground panels. MAYBE after playing with the 75/15, I’ll get motivated to swap in a larger Victron for the EPever. IF they go...

I noticed on a few utube videos some are putting the solar entry glands on the RV side, another option. You can walk on CIGS panels. You can even DRIVE on them and shoot holes through them, they keep working for the most part.

12vdc, four 100AH paralleled.

I specifically used the CIGS panels on the front curve of my Wolf Pup 16BHS. The 100 watt “compact” versions fit my camper well, plus I was too cheap to buy the 200 watt panels. The standard length 100 & 200 watt panels are SEVEN feet long, limiting placement choices. But they all wrap around...

The former. The battery is charged enough that the controller didn’t need to pull the power from the panel.

Currently have an EPEVer Tracer 100/30 MPPT hooked up. 4 100watt CIGS panels, 2S, 2P configuration for about 60 volt 10A supplied. Bought & installed the MT50 remote display. EBaying a used Victron 75/15, at a killer price, of course. Should have bit the bullet and gotten a Victron smart Solar...

Correction to my earlier post. The 14.4vdc is the absorption mode, not the equalization which is even higher, 16.2vdc. Final float mode is 13.8vdc. At least on the Victron smaller SCCs. As long as your charging device passes a voltage higher than the battery, the battery will charge. Solar...

14.4vdc is needed to balance the cells in the LiFePO4 battery, the controller only supplies this level occasionally for a set time. If the battery is fully charged, the controller will show overall panel voltage but the amps will be only what the battery needs to remain topped off. One of the...

Option B would be best for avoiding shading on a series string. But option A would be easier for cable runs. I think a big consideration is will the Solar addiction strike you again. Whichever placement you choose, leave enough room to add two more panels, I.e., ability to use BOTH option A & B...

Any way to go F vice C on this SCC?

When I recently had probs with my XiaoXiangElectric BMS app, a few suggested using Overkill Solar app. With it I was able to overcome my problem, inability to reenable charging and discharging after disabling them during TT winterization.