Recent content by chrisski

There’s some math in my signature block about mixing panels in series and parallel. I have not done the math yet, but your panels are so close I think you can put an old one and new one in series and put 3 of these in parallel with little loss. This will be no change to the combiner box.

Even with the household PV being limited to 500 V or 600 V, there's only so many panels that can be put on a string, perhaps 10 or 11 panels. That might get you 5 kW. For a 10 kW or 15 kW installation, what do these Inverters MPPT do? Do they provide multiple MPPTs? Do two strings and not...

That’s odd. My installer did a combiner box. Was a midnight solar and fit six dual pole circuit breakers. There’s three different angles of roof the panels are on, so makes sense why they did this. Combiners make sense to me for different direction setups and for shading. I wish I could...

2S3P, voltage at 45 volts is nothing to worry about, especially if it’s pushing power.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/bougerv-cigs-any-reviews.64511/ Was under the impression bougue Rv CIGs were good, just a different company had. The delaminating problem.,

Installed last November, I have 4 X Fortress e-Flex w/ an Outback, and I'm unfmailiar with "Open" or "Closed" loop, but I am having a bit of trouble keeping these charged. The inverter and MPPTs read 100% and the batteries read 25% to 50%. I wonder if that had anything to do with it.

I see no specs attached. Usually 100 watt panels have a voltage of~20 volts, so at 45 volts its abnormally high. I would suspect they are set up 2S3P.

I don't know the voltage input requirements for your Delta 2, so the two factors that will lower the votlage are 1) the voltage loss from longer cable length 2) When panels get hotter, voltage goes down. My panels can reach up to 155 in the summer. What is the lower limit of the Delta 2...

Yes you can. Whether a good idea or not, a personal choice. It’s a better idea if the small battery adds a meaningful amount of power to the larger one. I saw someone do something similar to a trailer he lived out of, so a good idea for him.

I’d l like to see a kWh requirement. For reference living in AZ myself, flat panels on an RV ROOF get two times their wattage rating in Wh on the shortest day of the year, and three times at the Equinox. For a build list, you can look at my RV builds in my signature box.

After three years and three times completely depleting a 1200 Wh lithium battery bank, I got 1150 Wh capacity. I’m building faith in these.

Stabuli is the official manufacturer for MC4, so I’d try that. You can look at the connector to see corrosion. You can also try to clean with rubbing alcohol and an acid brush, or any othe brush. You could cut them. Your idea of using the old connectors after you replace them seems better...

I don't think you want a step up converter. I have a 24 volt system. I also kept eveything that was 12 volts as 12 volts. I use a 24 volt to 12 volt step down converter to power the 12 volt side. I attached that to where the battery used to be in the trailer. I still use the 12 volt 7 pin...

I'd recommend looking at the "DIY Solar Products and System Schematics" at the top of the page, look at the schematics, and perhaps click the Basic 12 Volt System.

The MPPT is a stand alone unit. The MPPT is a Outback Flex Max 100 amp, so it is designed specifically to work with the "Universe" of Outback products.