you cannot put 2 conductors into a single lug of the main feed, so that is why the use of separate breakers to combine them into a single out going conductor
I recently installed my 14th Tesla Battery Module, well I re-found a web page describing a LARGE whole house solar system that has 36 Tesla Battery Modules
https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-hacker-off-grid-solar-home-batteries/
and his build thread...
corrected an NEC error
after upgrading from 1-1/4 PVC conduit to 2" EMT conduit, the new conduit has more capacity
therefore on my 8 space grid panel feeding to the Transfer switch AND to the inverter, I have removed the conduit to the inverter and moved those conductors there were there to...
the TS is center left
grid comes in from the top
critical loads panel is the big one to the right
schematic is in post #1 of MY BUILD THREAD, which as a link in my signature below
put my EMP shield and other surge protector outside the panel cabinets, just used 3/4" flex conduit
proudly displayed and so I could see the status leds
and
you CAN do it
It is the FEATURES I want, not the cost, that matters most to me. Saving on the bill is my 5th level priority. My first is to have power when the grid is down. Insulin in my refrigerators is far more important to keep viable
yeah, they look good and have some nice features, yet their core capabilities (battery size, panel capacity) are LOW. That is why I built my own dolly based 3000 watt Growatt with a 2.5kwh battery. Has a 20 amp circuit and was $1300 at the time and 5 times the capacity of the packaged $2000...
My XW Pro does have a grid input on AC1, but I have that breaker OFF, all the "normal" time.
I do not have netmetering at all
to charge on those dark winter days and nights, I use the Chargeverter to charge the batteries and run house loads. I use the inverter's AUX port (dry contactor) to...
I am trying to grasp where 4300 kwhr goes per month WITHOUT AC, like mentioned above a heater running? got water features?
Energy Audit for sure with empirical sensors