Recent content by hamburgerman

So, the utility rejected this again. I sent them pictures showing the internal wiring and the double taps, and they say: "The solar AC disconnect can not be tapped into to meter box. Please have a tap box as you can not have two connections made to the main meter, only one wire in, and one...

There actually is a breaker/fuse on either end. One output from the meter goes into the breaker disconnect on the left, which then goes into my transfer switch (in the basement). The other output goes into the fused disconnect on the right, which then goes into the AC input on my inverter...

Just snagged these pictures. I don't see a problem, but I'm no expert either.

Yea I actually don't mind the bypass requirement, it makes sense and does make me feel better about any possible future inverter failures. It's the tap box thing that is bugging me. I can totally understand your points as well. If some 3rd party lugs were installed, or wires too cramped, or...

I am getting very frustrated with my utility, as it feels like every step has had ridiculous and unclear rules - but I'm also willing to admit I am not an expert and so I'm trying not to get too angry with this. The latest one is taxing my patience though, so I'm wondering if there is a good...

We're in Michigan. Where I was doing the work, the ground is mostly clay and tree roots, with some smaller stones scattered throghout. I didn't have to abandon any holes halfway through due to hitting an obstacle, thankfully. I got all the equipment from a distributor in Wisconsin I believe...

Ah, thanks for the explaination about the switch type. I assume it was (a) because of potential reliability of breaker type and (b) easy visibility of the disconnect state from a distance. I tried to argue that (a) didn't matter since it shouldn't be used much (if ever!) anyway, and (b) didn't...

You bet. I have a whole site with a ton of info about my build - including many mistakes and revisions along the way! https://sites.google.com/michigancis.com/hamburgsolarproject/blog

The Sol-Ark is definitely going to cost you more, so you have to decide if the simplicity and features are worth it to you or not. I just fired up my Sol-Ark 15K this weekend, after nearly a year of design/install, and it's awesome. I've not been able to test the grid tie component yet...

I used https://nuanceenergy.com/solar-products/osprey-powerrack, and I'm super pleased with them so far. Install was much faster and easier than having to deal with the concrete and whatnot necessary for other solutions.

The inverter should be able to handle that just fine then, assuming you have enough batteries to support that total power draw.

I don't know about solar assistant. As for the well pump question, most likely yes - but it depends on a handful of factors. Are you assuming the sol-ark is also going to be operating in an off grid mode, or will it be grid tied? Is it a 120 or 240v pump? Do you know the LRA rating of the...

Okay, it looks like this would work for point 2?

I'm working on final design for my PV system I've posted about previously. It is a ground mount system, ~200' from my house, consisting of 46 total panels. The panels will be wired in a series/parallel as shown in the diagram, to result in 3 separate strings running a theoretical max of about...

Yes sorry, 8S2P, that's indeed what I meant!