Recent content by Rogerb

The breaker indicated is rated for 1Kv, so no issues there. Changing the breaker size can have negative implications for the wire currently used. Don't want your wire acting like an induction stove. lol. Found this one on amazon.ca. The other option is to use a 15a blade fuse and holder before...

Go with the one @corn18 recommends, but use the 16 amp one amazon.com , whether you go with 4S1P, or 2S2P. Remember, series adds voltage 4S1P (22.3v x 4 = 89.2v. 5.86a). Parallel adds amperage 2S2P (5.86a x 2 = 11.72a. 22.3 x 2 = 44.6v) . So you would be ok with the 16a pv breaker in either...

AH! Damn camera angle. 😆 Can you give us some more info on the panel you're using? That 30v should be VOC, but it shouldn't drop that much once connected.... And the model of the solar controller, maybe we find a manual for it? Could possibly be a setting is wrong.

Might help to move the battery positive cable to the battery positive connection on the solar controller, not the load positive connection. That might fix your problem. ;)

Check the sense leads to the JBD to verify the app voltage readings. If they are the same as the app, the connections at the battery are suspect. If they are the same as the individual voltages, the BMS may have failed. Let us know what you find. :)

Depending on the voltage/amperage of your solar array, your best bet would be to use a DPDT Center off switch, like this one: https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/DPDT-6-Pin-3-Position-On-Off-On-Metal-Toggle-Switch-240V-15A-120V-20A-AC/PRD1C1CH5RDVQCH The battery switch you propose to use, are only...

Kind of.... If all 6 100w panels are paralleled to the charge controller, yes, any of the 6 could be shaded, and the others will still produce. Same with the 300w panels, in parallel, one could be shaded, the other will still produce. That said, if you serial all 6 100w panels, or both 300w...

Max AC input on the Multiplus II 12/24 is 50A per leg. Multiplus II Datasheet

Would like to point out that since you upgraded to the 3000W Giandel, carry the 2/0 wire all the way to it. You also need a fuse at the positive busbar to the 24v fuse block. Your negative cables on the appliance side should also be 6 AWG. A 20a CB on the panels main positive would be a handy...

@Rapidrob is it possible you have the Air8 set to the wrong chemistry, thus getting the error? Li-ion vs LiFePo?

@MrM1 you do not get split phase 240v from any 30a to 50a adapter. It just connects L1 and L2 on the 50a side.

As long as your coach battery and engine battery share a common negative, you shouldn't have any issues.

This might help with what you're looking for. https://simarine.net/product/scq25-quadro-digital-shunt-module/

DOH! After I just pulled the trigger on the 6018W. ???

Hmmm, are you able to tie the neutrals in the main panel, not at the Growatts neutral? that might be the difference, but I can't see why it would. Gonna show my electrician friend the 2 pics and see if he has any suggestions.