Recent content by sbsyncro

Thank you. can I ask for a few points of clarification? When you say "A major benefit of the shunt is that it will share the voltage, current and temperature (if probe is installed) data with the MPPT" are you referring to the benefit of using the Victron Smart Shunt and Smart Solar MPPT...

the one I'm using today was actually reviewed by ReeWrayOutdoors and he gave it a very good review. I have two of them that I bought on a "flash sale" deal last July for about $700 each. Neither will charge reliably and after about 9 months of use, one of them started intermittently shutting...

Thanks everyone that has posted so far - there has been a lot of great information up to this point! My biggest remaining question is about whether to use a Victron smart shunt vs. something cheaper from another brand, and I guess it boils down to whether I want a visual display or want to rely...

I've got two of the AOLithium 100ah units (with Bluetooth) in my camp trailer (along with a Victron MPPT controller) and they are working really well. I'm thinking of the non-BT version for this build and they are only $200.

I carry a Dometic fridge in the back of my jeep and power it with a 1500wh 'all in one' type LifePo4 battery pack that will generally last me about 5-6 days without sun which is never a problem. I have a 200w 48v solar panel on the roof that is used to recharge the pack. I've gone through...

OK I just figured it out through some trial and error. Plugging a standard RJ11 telephone extension cord into the Xantrex remote port, here's what I got: If you jumper between pins 5 (yellow) and 3 (red) momentarily, it will switch the inverter ON (you do NOT need to maintain the connection)...

Yes, indeed - I already have a wireless fob, but it just has bare wires; I'm trying to figure out which leads to tie to in order to switch the unit on/off. If someone has a remote they could easily test the pins for continuity with the switch "on". In fact I may buy one on Amazon for this...

It uses a standard RJ11 port and a telephone extension cable. As far as I can tell there are three elements to the remote - the on/off switch (which probably just ties two pins together), an LED status light that comes on when the two wires are joined and the system is "on", and a lead for an...

I'm considering making a pigtail from an old phone extension cable and then crossing wires until I find the pair that turns the unit on.

I have a Xantrex Prowatt 2000 inverter in my camp trailer and I'd like to wire up a wireless key fob remote. I just need to know the pinout of the RJ11 remote on/off port. I can't find anything online; I've reached out to Xantrex but have not hear anything back yet. Does anyone have an idea...

Hmm.. That leaves me just scratching my head then...

Ah! Just keep hitting reply to the various posts - thank you! I think this must be my problem. My tow vehicle ground (in the 7-pin harness) is tied to the trailer chassis, thus both Neg terminals on the input and output of the Orion are grounded to the trailer (and vehicle) chassis. So can...

Hmm. I have an AC-DC charger in the vehicle. But this approach would require me to install additional wiring between the vehicle and trailer, and thats one of the things I'm trying to avoid.

OK so I took it down to 55% (13.07v resting), fired up the tow vehicle (putting out 14.2v), let it run for a minute and still nothing coming through. I'm wondering if I might have an issue with the way I have the circuit grounded? I'm grounding the trailer junction box to the trailer...

just checked. no difference. :unsure: