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I charge my 300Ah Lithium directly for the alternator with out any problems DC-DC charging is almost more needed to increase the power draw. I added an extra separator rele just to manage to gett 40A from the alternator that's 2x6mm2 and I have a short distance between the batteries and power...

the voltige drop disappears as the current drops so eventually you will see 13,8V and with some absorption time it will fully charge.

Just my thoughts. Seams to me people are over complicating the conversion from lead to LiFePO4 Battery. I see no need for throwing money at it, the vast majority of RV have no problem with using the original equipment with some minor tweaks. Buying new charger and DC-DC charger to replace the...

I would say it should be fine just measure what you are getting now and make sure the line is fused then just monitor if its similar to the old system just go down to 10% charge to see how much it draws.

if the charger is seeing its limit of 14.4V its not going to be able to push any more Amps as it will need to exceed the max Volts allowed you can't just magically push Amps with out Volts, that's why you see the volts creeping up as you charge with constant current until you hit the upper limit...

I have 2 180w panels with a 20A MPPT living in south of Norway I still have not seen 20A on a good day it will get op to 17A Im shore Ill see 20A at some point but to be honest during those type of days I simply don't need all that power. and people need to remember that we newer have a optimal...

looks like a solar panel fire

Where did you get the 3.43v number, this is what I seam to be seeing on my EVE sells as resting but keep getting told as. low as 3.2V or 3.35v and my experience is that at 13.5v float the battery drains almost 10% before the float takes over and that is with only 1-2A draw

I can see that in a RV it can be a OK solution and 2 batteries in series is not as bad as 4 in series and if you are charging them individually as 12v banks the problem of them being exposed to high charging volts is non existing

I did no compression on mine just made a snug box around it to contain the 4 cells (RV installation), and I agree that good quality cells should not expand and if I was making a big static shelved battery I would rather have space between them to allow them to expand and retract. If uniformed...

is this a RV or a caravan? just curious about alternator charging as on my RV I simply tried using the battery in parallel and found the charging current to be acceptable if not slightly underwhelming @25A and there is of corse a cut off relay that vill prevent it from discharging in to motor...

You should really buy on of these WIFI or Bluetooth it vill give you access to user settings and grafs for power to all batteries EP Solar mini Bluetooth dongle sett, DUO racer, the bluetooth version only gives you access to info as you are connected the wifi can send info to the cloud. the app...

the max you should see in LFPO4 mode is 14,6V but the 15V could be from before when it was in sealed/gel setting, the 16,9V is not normal but it dosent need to have come from the MPPT 13,8 is the standard cutoff for batt2

There is a difference with a car and trailer compared to a coach, with 6m+ cabling you need the DC-DC to be able to boost opp the voltage to get a charge.

There is a lead acid batteri in parallel yes. that in it self is never a problem as the voltage of a lead battery is lower than the lithium and drops way down when the lithium starts pulling on it. Not that simple the alternator supplies constant voltage and the drop in voltage to the lithium...

30A is probably to smal it should be 40-50A as it will be close to 30A at leased momentant at the start. just use a amp-meter or read from the battery BMS what it pulls .

That is tru and compression is easy but still even at 3000 cycles its a full cycle a day for 8 years.

I have bin using the charging MOSFET to stop my solar charger from toping up my battery when I am not on the move, there is only some minor draw from the battery during the night when there is no solar power, is this ok or is this bad for the BMS (MOSFET)? @upnorthandpersonal (JBD Smart BMS 4S...

I have bin using the charging MOSFET to stop my solar charger from toping up my battery when I am not on the move, there is only some minor draw from the battery during the night when there is no solar power, is this ok or is this bad for the BMS (MOSFET)? (JBD Smart BMS 4S Lifepo4 200A)

JK is a good maker of BMS and Im sure they know what they are doing, I have a 200A JK 4s and that only har a singel out 6mm this har 2 probably 2x 6mm and that is plenty big enough

As a novice in battery making I see that so many people are connecting 4 LIFPO batteries in series to make 48v, and for my understanding this seams to be a very bad practice as there is no way to keep the batteries balanced and the failure of one battery or BMS can create huges problems and...

that's all ok but the question was if it is harmfull for the MOSFET (BMS) non of the parameters are changed I just turn off the charging MOSFET manually to protect the battery from the solar panel controller ramping up with full charge every day,