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House burned down

Also wanna add that we had 6 nest protects in the house, and none gave alarm but after 20 minutes when the house was full of smoke. My son discovered a meter of smoke against the ceiling and woke everyone up. If he hadnt wake up, there would have been 4 funerals this week.
I think there are heat detectors that can be used in conjunction with smoke (particulate) detectors. They may see the heat flare from the arcing to give you advanced notice, or set up automation to trigger your battery disconnects/shunts.
 
I forget the correct terminology, but there was a mention recently of a better type of smoke detector. Not the cheapo $15 deal from Kitty that Home Depot sells. Perhaps it was an ionizing smoke detector?
 
Want to add that in my system i followed all fuse and wire specifications as indicated in the victron manuals.
This is something I have wondered about for quite a while. They support Megafuses in all their gear and sell 48B versions of Megafuses, but they never really address the AIC question. Several months back I had the chance to talk to a Victron 'ambassador' about a system and he was recommending a Cass-T.... which I found 'interesting' given this is not documented by Victron. When I pressed him on it he said he always uses a T class when more than one LiFePo4 battery is in parallel. He also claimed the ABYC was going to change their recommendation to more along the lines of what he is doing, but I don't know if that has happened.
 
@Jejochen So sorry for your loss but thankfully your and your family are safe.

Class T fuses or similar high AIC interrupt are needed to protect from a short circuit.
Shorts can occur at any time with no warning.
I'd add that Class T fuses are rated to open safely at these high AIC's without risk of causing other damage (exploding) or failing in such a way that they don't remain open. I can't readily find a reference but I've often heard it's possible for a fuse to fail in such a way that it doesn't open.
 
One tool that can come in handy to help prevent fires is a non contact thermometer. You should periodically run checks around your Inverter setup and batteries for hot spots.
View attachment 212063

Even better would taking the system to 100% of it's rating and checking voltage drop across every single connection. No need to wait for heat to build up or risk false readings from shiny terminals that don't like their temperature took.
 
Better yet is a thermal imaging camera, such as a flir, or many other brands out there.
They indeed have a place. Most people can afford the non contact Thermometer as they are just a few dollars. Plus the readout is simple temperature.
Even better would taking the system to 100% of it's rating and checking voltage drop across every single connection. No need to wait for heat to build up or risk false readings from shiny terminals that don't like their temperature took.
That is required for initial setup but down the road maintenance you want something to give you a quick check.
 
One tool that can come in handy to help prevent fires is a non contact thermometer. You should periodically run checks around your Inverter setup and batteries for hot spots.
View attachment 212063
I do a monthly PM check on my system, just as we do on customers sites. One of the checks I make is with a flir thermal camera. Anything getting warm shows up quickly.
 
I haven’t done a review, but I don’t recall Victron talking about fuses between the battery bank and the lynx. It may be in there, but I just don’t recall it. Seems like that part of the system is a bit out of their purview unless you were using a Victron battery.

I was also under the impression that insurance might not cover electrical components that are not UL listed. At least in the United States. And I’ve heard that victron does not have UL listed components. Again, I haven’t tracked this down at independently.

Glad things are working out for the OP. And sorry for your loss. It takes a while to recover from a catastrophic fire. Glad you are OK.
 
This is something I have wondered about for quite a while. They support Megafuses in all their gear and sell 48B versions of Megafuses, but they never really address the AIC question. Several months back I had the chance to talk to a Victron 'ambassador' about a system and he was recommending a Cass-T.... which I found 'interesting' given this is not documented by Victron. When I pressed him on it he said he always uses a T class when more than one LiFePo4 battery is in parallel. He also claimed the ABYC was going to change their recommendation to more along the lines of what he is doing, but I don't know if that has happened.

I think most here on the forum know I have been hammering on the use of Class T fuses since forever (and at times received push-back). I also talked to Victron (and other) reps at several occasions about using class T fuses (or at least similar, like BS88 etc), and did the same with BMS manufacturers when paralleling of batteries comes up. I'm glad to hear there are some signals appearing that vendors/etc. are finally addressing this.
 
Also wanna add that we had 6 nest protects in the house, and none gave alarm but after 20 minutes when the house was full of smoke. My son discovered a meter of smoke against the ceiling and woke everyone up. If he hadnt wake up, there would have been 4 funerals this week.

Perhaps the Nest devices were dependent on house line power and that had failed when the flaw in the power system started, sufficiently before the devices could detect the fire that they were no longer operating, or no longer operating well enough to communicate and make alarm sounds.
 
Also wanna add that we had 6 nest protects in the house, and none gave alarm but after 20 minutes when the house was full of smoke. My son discovered a meter of smoke against the ceiling and woke everyone up. If he hadnt wake up, there would have been 4 funerals this week.

Make sure when you rebuild you have ionizing smoke detectors verse just the standard optical/heat ones. The ionizing ones can go off from just a clear haze from when the fire is smoldering before starting into full flames, look them up.

 
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@Jejochen So sorry for your loss but thankfully your and your family are safe.


I'd add that Class T fuses are rated to open safely at these high AIC's without risk of causing other damage (exploding) or failing in such a way that they don't remain open. I can't readily find a reference but I've often heard it's possible for a fuse to fail in such a way that it doesn't open.
This thread is an example of such a fuse failure.
 
The fuse picture i posted was just an answer to the "what is a meltfuse" question.
The exact fuse was a mega 48v, 300 A.

The insurance is no problem.
Sorry for your loss.

I know this is a sensitive subject but you said insurance is no problem.

Did you have your system inspected by the county? Permitted?

The reason I ask is there has been some debate on here about insurance companies denying claims for DIY installations.
 
The reason I ask is there has been some debate on here about insurance companies denying claims for DIY installations.

Seems like this is easier in (some) European countries compared to the States, at least based on my, albeit small, sample size from both places. It always seems it's a fight to get the insurance money over there with tons of strings attached compared to Europe.
 
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