diy solar

diy solar

Who has experience with (blue) aluminum cells in a mobile system?

I went with 16 calb ca 180s in my van and I couldn’t be happier. I love the 5/16 terminal bolts and I couldn’t imagine having smaller terminals. Even with the 5/16 you are only able to tourqe down to 11 ft/lbs. 11ft/lbs really isn’t that much at all and I would be cautious to go with anything smaller. Just my 2 cents.
 
Ian said:
I went with 16 calb ca 180s in my van and I couldn’t be happier. I love the 5/16 terminal bolts and I couldn’t imagine having smaller terminals. Even with the 5/16 you are only able to tourqe down to 11 ft/lbs. 11ft/lbs really isn’t that much at all and I would be cautious to go with anything smaller. Just my 2 cents.
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Replace the bolts with studs and screw them all the way in. The full thread engagement will be stronger and less likely to strip out. If you can find studs with a hex key spot on the top, you can hold the stud while tightening the nuts.
 
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Sgt Raven said:
Replace the bolts with studs and screw them all the way in. The full thread engagement will be stronger and less likely to strip out. If you can find studs with a hex key spot on the top, you can hold the stud while tightening the nuts.
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What material is best to buy? Stainless steel?
 
Sgt Raven said:
So you're one of them, Overloading your Overlanding Rig.... LOL.. Autocorrect strikes again....
Do you have the 280AH cells already? I've read some posts here where the cell manufactuers reconmend 200aH or less for cells used in boating and mobile appalcations, because they they have better internal structural integrity.
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Caught out by autocorrect. Or a subconscious glimpse into the bitter truth.

No cells yet, my build begins end of summer. I'll start a thread to track the hilarity. Thanks for the M6 converters, a bit odd they upsize to two different sizes ?
 
We use lithium ion on our boat x 7 years with no issues, no issues with our new 280 AH Aluminum cells as I think they are very robust as long as a bit of common sense is used. We sail in big seas, big winds and take big poundings...no issues ever. Secure the shit out of things... common sense. any RV is kids play compared to an offshore sailboat so get on it and BYO your pack.
 
El Jack said:
Caught out by autocorrect. Or a subconscious glimpse into the bitter truth.

No cells yet, my build begins end of summer. I'll start a thread to track the hilarity. Thanks for the M6 converters, a bit odd they upsize to two different sizes ?
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You can buy them all one size or the other, too. That link showed both together, so I thought it was better to show them.
I think I would go 5/16ths. If you look at cable lugs/ring terminals for larger cables, the terminals are the same size with larger holes for for larger bolts. 5/16"bolts would be stronger than 1/4" bolts, but the terminals would have a larger contact area than 3/8".
 
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mndare said:
We use lithium ion on our boat x 7 years with no issues, no issues with our new 280 AH Aluminum cells as I think they are very robust as long as a bit of common sense is used. We sail in big seas, big winds and take big poundings...no issues ever. Secure the shit out of things... common sense. any RV is kids play compared to an offshore sailboat so get on it and BYO your pack.
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RV yes, overland vehicle probably more comparable--there are a handful of documented cases of frames cracking after extended operation in harsh conditions--if a HD steel frame can fail, its certainly worth considering what else might fail. That said, I'm sure there are many ways to mitigate the risk to lifepo4 cells (aluminum or otherwise) that would make them reasonably resilient to whatever forces are thrown there way.

What methods did you employ to 'secure the shit' out of them :). I'm particularly curious if rubbing/chafing has been an issue or concern that you designed for.
 
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How about putting a layer of this polycarbonate twinwall glazing between each cell, with the channels running upwards. It provides electrical insulation from each cell, but the channel is available to dissipate heat from the cell walls. It is heat and fire resistant(at least the stuff i used in my solar thermal panels was, and i pump water up to 98deg C on a very few occasions, without it distorting-so the temp in the air void within the panel will likely be much higher than the 55degC max temp recommendation of many cells). Being polycarbonate, it is quite tough stuff but will have a little 'give' in it to absorb some of the vibration, but still provide inter cell wall support. What do you guys think?
Polycarbonate spacer sheet.png
 
Solarfun4jim said:
How about putting a layer of this polycarbonate twinwall glazing between each cell, with the channels running upwards. It provides electrical insulation from each cell, but the channel is available to dissipate heat from the cell walls. It is heat and fire resistant(at least the stuff i used in my solar thermal panels was, and i pump water up to 98deg C on a very few occasions, without it distorting-so the temp in the air void within the panel will likely be much higher than the 55degC max temp recommendation of many cells). Being polycarbonate, it is quite tough stuff but will have a little 'give' in it to absorb some of the vibration, but still provide inter cell wall support. What do you guys think?
View attachment 8142
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This seems like a good idea if you could get/make busbars that fit correctly. Do you think it could handle the type of compression commonly applied to prismatic cell packs?

I was considering using something like 2 layers of that ultra thin cutting board material, which I believe would be thin enough to use with standard busbars and is very resilient when it comes to rubbing, tearing, and punctures
 
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Dzl said:
RV yes, overland vehicle probably more comparable--there are a handful of documented cases of frames cracking after extended operation in harsh conditions--if a HD steel frame can fail, its certainly worth considering what else might fail. That said, I'm sure there are many ways to mitigate the risk to lifepo4 cells (aluminum or otherwise) that would make them reasonably resilient to whatever forces are thrown there way.

What methods did you employ to 'secure the shit' out of them :). I'm particularly curious if rubbing/chafing has been an issue or concern that you designed for.
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Custom built SS battery boxes bolted down and batteries strapped together with SS straps.

www.uline.ca

Stainless Steel Strapping, Stainless Steel Banding in Stock - ULINE.ca

Uline stocks a wide selection of Stainless Steel Strapping. Order by 6 p.m. for same day shipping. Huge Catalog! Over 42,000 products in stock. Two Locations in Canada for fast delivery of Stainless Steel Strapping.
www.uline.ca www.uline.ca
 
Dzl said:
This seems like a good idea if you could get/make busbars that fit correctly. Do you think it could handle the type of compression commonly applied to prismatic cell packs?

I was considering using something like 2 layers of that ultra thin cutting board material, which I believe would be thin enough to use with standard busbars and is very resilient when it comes to rubbing, tearing, and punctures
Click to expand...
The polycarbonate i used was really quite sturdy, but you can get 'stronger' multiwall versions, but at thicker widths. I think once you had it all secured together, it would become fairly rigid mass.
When i go to do it, i will be getting copper flat bar cut to specific equal lengths to fit..
www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk

20mm x 10mm Copper Flat Bar

20 mm x 10 mm Copper Flat Bar in Stock Now. Bulk Discounts. Buy Online or Call 0800 520 0729. Top rated Supplier.
www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk

Secured battery pack..png
Viewed from above
 
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Dzl said:
This seems like a good idea if you could get/make busbars that fit correctly. Do you think it could handle the type of compression commonly applied to prismatic cell packs?

I was considering using something like 2 layers of that ultra thin cutting board material, which I believe would be thin enough to use with standard busbars and is very resilient when it comes to rubbing, tearing, and punctures
Click to expand...

Get some of these shims -- tape one on each corner of ONE battery and one in the middle -- then place the other battery against it (and so on and so on) and tape them all together ... The shims will keep the batteries compressed and also allow maximum air flow ... there is only one set of shims between 2 batteries

Black 1/4" x 2" Plastic Horseshoe Shims Pack of 100

Black 1/4" x 2" Plastic Horseshoe Shims Pack of 100: Screen Door Hardware: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Black 1/4" x 2" Plastic Horseshoe Shims Pack of 100: Screen Door Hardware: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
 
Solarfun4jim said:
The polycarbonate i used was really quite sturdy, but you can get 'stronger' multiwall versions, but at thicker widths. I think once you had it all secured together, it would become fairly rigid mass.
When i go to do it, i will be getting copper flat bar cut to specific equal lengths to fit..
www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk

20mm x 10mm Copper Flat Bar

20 mm x 10 mm Copper Flat Bar in Stock Now. Bulk Discounts. Buy Online or Call 0800 520 0729. Top rated Supplier.
www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk

View attachment 8148
Viewed from above
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I don't know what you used to create the picture diagram, but it looks good, and is easy to understand your concept.
 
cass3825 said:
I have 64 of the same or similar cells, 50Ah, currently in 4P16S config in the front storage locker of my toy hauler. The pack rests on 1” styrofoam for both insulation and shock absorption. I live on a washboard road, so the pack sees its fair share of vibration. No issues so far, but it’s been installed less than a year. I’ll be adding a 200W heat pad between the foam and pack, so time will tell if the plastic carriers will withstand the heat.
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Nice -why did you choose such a small Amp Hour Battery Setup?
-price?
-size?
Did that affect your BMS choice, Solar Charge Controler and also Convert Size?
 
Davetv1423 said:
Nice -why did you choose such a small Amp Hour Battery Setup?
-price?
-size?
Did that affect your BMS choice, Solar Charge Controler and also Convert Size?
Click to expand...
It was a good deal at the time. If I could start over, I'd buy 280ah cells.

My cell selection did not affect other equipment choices. I've been following @BiduleOhm design of a new BMS here.
 
Sub’d, I’m in the same boat planning a system for a new toy hauler. Thanks for all the info, soaking it all in like a sponge!
 
mndare said:
We use lithium ion on our boat x 7 years with no issues, no issues with our new 280 AH Aluminum cells as I think they are very robust as long as a bit of common sense is used. We sail in big seas, big winds and take big poundings...no issues ever. Secure the shit out of things... common sense. any RV is kids play compared to an offshore sailboat so get on it and BYO your pack.
Click to expand...
mndare, new member here, who purchased 280Ah cells from Amy
May I ask how you built your packs?
My 8 are going into series for 24v unless I can be convinced otherwise
thinking about using aluminum straps 1"x 1/8 as vertical spacers between cells
Then pulling pack together with threaded rod and end caps
 
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