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SolArk15k vs Eg4 18k

Earlier you said that ever other company names their inverters by the minimum continuous inverter output. I'm just providing evidence that you are incorrect. They are typically named based on their IDEAL scenario continous inverter output. If anything the sol-ark 15k can stay at its maximum inverter output in more situations than the other tier 1 inverters.
One other does not constitute typically.
The majority does.
 
Victron, Schneider, outback, etc all need to be changed then. The only possible exceptions are the budget tier AIOs (growatt/MPP Solar).
WTF?! Schneider is about as conservatively rated as you can get at 6800W/48V, hence the name 6848. You lost whatever credibility you might have had there.

There are the games played with 25C vs 40C ambient rating, but that has become the standard for whatever reasons.
 
WTF?! Schneider is about as conservatively rated as you can get at 6800W/48V, hence the name 6848. You lost whatever credibility you might have had there.

There are the games played with 25C vs 40C ambient rating, but that has become the standard for whatever reasons.
Tim's definition of inverter rating is "the minimum it can do in any condition". Like you just mentioned yourself, the 6848 can NOT do 6800W continuous in every condition.

Schneider is a bit better than most because the 6800W figure is more like an average continuous rating, instead of ideal. In some conditions it can do more than that, and in others less.
 
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Tim's definition of inverter rating
Not ratings
Naming
You can go to the specs for all of the details. On what it can do in various scenarios.
The name is what catches the customers eyes.
If I know that my loads require 15k. Then I should be able to expect a unit called a 15k to be able to do the job.
All of the time.
Not just when it's very sunny, or another source is available to help.
 
Looks like it we got sidetracked, anyway.
As far as I know.
Victron, Schneider, and Outback don't even offer AIO's.
 
I'm considering a Schneider because of it's exceptional long term surge performance. Where the high frequency inverters would have given up.
 
Welp, we sent 2 not 3, (some people even say 4 though lol) we will partner with any battery including DIY bmses for closed loop comms support. but I'm getting away from open loop as a guarantee. if ethernet scares someone then I'd rather have another company get the sale and own the warranty.
Are you going to start requiring closed loop comms for your eg4 batteries to maintain warranty coverage? That would certainly place them in a niche market compared to the competition.
 
Based upon Will's 1 month review, the EG4 looks interesting, however in Connecticut, the Sol-ark 15K is approved for the Energy Srorage Solutions Program, which subsidizes the battery cost. It looks like Shenzhen Lux Power has applied to have its 12k model approved, but who knows when or if they will complete the integration process, or if it includes models like the EG4.
 
I'm considering a Schneider because of it's exceptional long term surge performance. Where the high frequency inverters would have given up.
They use a Low Freq., Toroidal transformer. Proven in different applications to be robust as also used in another fine brand name of inverters. The Schneider brag about many still in use 15-20 years later but only offer a 5 yr warranty. You should do some research of your own first from people who had problems and tried to contact Schneider for warranty issues before you decide. That is why I my self decided to pass on this fine unit that will do more than it is rated.
 
I have attached working Luxpower 12K settings using TOU 4-9pm arbitrage and 2 SOK server batteries. I will swap it next week for the EG418K and compare. Uploaded in both pdf and jpg.

Note: when troubleshooting the CT's for proper arbitrage, the offset in my unit was set to 535watts. I lowered it to -50 in the CT power offset. The luxpower CT's are 1:3000 vs most others at 1:2000 so use the proper CT's or change the sample ratio to match your CT's.
I was wrong on the 48V settings..

I changed out the SOK's pulled the 2 questionable (low cell voltage on one tesla cell) packs, and hooked up to the 12K luxpower.
I was wrong on the 48V settings, it cannot go below 50V Absorb and float.
I might have been able to use 48V but 50V will create an explosion. (contactor will disengage, but that may be detrimental to the inverter)
I have put it back in "no battery" mode.
 
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Tim's definition of inverter rating is "the minimum it can do in any condition". Like you just mentioned yourself, the 6848 can NOT do 6800W continuous in every condition.

Schneider is a bit better than most because the 6800W figure is more like an average continuous rating, instead of ideal. In some conditions it can do more than that, and in others less.
it can do that 24/7 under standard rating environment as well as an unbelivable surge of 8.5kw for 30min and 11kw for 5min
 
I've been learning about solar for a month + at this point and I know very little about electricity and mathematics was never my strong suit. I was quoted on a system which included a SolArk 15k and it looks and sounds (from what I've read and have been told) like a nice piece of equipment. It is expensive.
This new 18kpv has a much lower price. I guess one is saving on the lack of quality and support, as I've read all the comments on many youtube vid's regarding their products and there are an awful lot of EG4/SS haters out there. I have gotten a lot of questions answered by someone at SS, but then again, that's what a lot of people have written, the sales being great but the support being poor. I was originally looking at the 6500's but now know that I'll be much better off with MPP lv6548's.
I would think that if one can swing it, buy the SolArk. Life is too short, especially considering the times that we are in.
 
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Hey Everyone,
I am stuck with Sol Ark as I was concerned about the minimum temperature. At -25C or -13 F as a temp limit, that will be an issue where I live up north. On windy nights during the winter we can dip below -25C though not by much. Has anyone tried using one outside in a northern climate or plan on it? The Sol Ark I purchased is rated for -40C or the same in Fahrenheit at -40F. Also is the warranty void should you use this in cold weather environment outdoors? Do they honor the warranty, at least with their other products?
 
Hey Everyone,
I am stuck with Sol Ark as I was concerned about the minimum temperature. At -25C or -13 F as a temp limit, that will be an issue where I live up north. On windy nights during the winter we can dip below -25C though not by much. Has anyone tried using one outside in a northern climate or plan on it? The Sol Ark I purchased is rated for -40C or the same in Fahrenheit at -40F. Also is the warranty void should you use this in cold weather environment outdoors? Do they honor the warranty, at least with their other products?
I am not sure what you are talking about, Sol-Ark has the best warranty and customer service in the industry.
Plenty of people have used the Outdoor unit outdoors in all sort of environments. The only limitation is do not let the LCD screen get baked by direct sunlight.
 
Hey Everyone,
I am stuck with Sol Ark as I was concerned about the minimum temperature. At -25C or -13 F as a temp limit, that will be an issue where I live up north. On windy nights during the winter we can dip below -25C though not by much. Has anyone tried using one outside in a northern climate or plan on it? The Sol Ark I purchased is rated for -40C or the same in Fahrenheit at -40F. Also is the warranty void should you use this in cold weather environment outdoors? Do they honor the warranty, at least with their other products?
Where will the batteries be?
 
For the 15K:
Ambient temperature -40°C to 60°C
Derated >45°C
That's not what the spec sheet says, it says lowest limit is -25C: https://www.sol-ark.com/wp-content/uploads/15K-2P_SpecSheet.pdf
EG4 18kPV has same limits.

Issue is that components like a capacitor for instance were likely not "industrial" rated which usually means down to -40C. The LCD would likely be very slow or unresponsive at that temp. Even a very small super insulated outbuilding would be enough to keep it a lot warmer since the heat from the Sol-ark/18kPV would keep it well above those temps with good insulation.
 
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