diy solar

diy solar

What’s your daily SOC range?

In winter months, I use TOU to charge every night at low cost, during Nov - Jan when overcast skys make the solar charging potential Suck. I don't often driver the SOC very low, as I always want some capacity for the original purpose of this set up - utility outages.
If I let the SOC drop like a rock, and the utility drops out, then I am on (expensive) gen set charging at over a dollar per kWh. Since utility outages are rather common occurance, I like to keep SOC above 50% as a general rule, until the utitlty is down.

TOU low rates can save a ton of money
 
In winter months, I use TOU to charge every night at low cost, during Nov - Jan when overcast skys make the solar charging potential Suck. I don't often driver the SOC very low, as I always want some capacity for the original purpose of this set up - utility outages.
If I let the SOC drop like a rock, and the utility drops out, then I am on (expensive) gen set charging at over a dollar per kWh. Since utility outages are rather common occurance, I like to keep SOC above 50% as a general rule, until the utitlty is down.

I should probably knock on wood, but I don't think my power has been out more than 5-10 times in the 12 odd years I've lived here. Never longer than an hour. I'm playing around here so I know what it might take/cost me if I move off grid when I retire.
 
It's really hot here. 112ish today. I'm not cooling my utility room, just a vent fan, inverters are rated to 140C, and the batteries claim 131F. I do have a big fan on them. The cars (both EV) are generally charged setting out in the middle of the sun, so we will see.
Keep in mind, If the air is warmer than the batteries it doesn’t help to use a fan. It can make it worse.
 
I should probably knock on wood, but I don't think my power has been out more than 5-10 times in the 12 odd years I've lived here. Never longer than an hour. I'm playing around here so I know what it might take/cost me if I move off grid when I retire.
That’s exactly what I’m doing. Find out what works while I’ve got grid to fall back on. My ideal retirement spread is land, water, sky and few people with probably no grid or too expensive to have it brought in.
 
Keep in mind, If the air is warmer than the batteries it doesn’t help to use a fan. It can make it worse.
That would assume of course they somehow got cooler than ambient. Without the fan in the room ambient is +5. My new plan is to vent the room with an attic style fan, just suck it off the ceiling and out.
 
It's really hot here. 112ish today. I'm not cooling my utility room, just a vent fan, inverters are rated to 140C, and the batteries claim 131F. I do have a big fan on them. The cars (both EV) are generally charged setting out in the middle of the sun, so we will see.
That's pretty warm, yep. I had a fan blowing on my inverters this spring before I got the mini split installed and it helped a LOT. The batteries weren't heating up then so that part didn't matter. The heat index is supposed to be pushing 120 here for the next several days. I try to stay out of the worst of it but sometimes things happen and you just gotta suck it up.
 
That would assume of course they somehow got cooler than ambient. Without the fan in the room ambient is +5. My new plan is to vent the room with an attic style fan, just suck it off the ceiling and out.
Do cool the room with fresh air however keep the batteries low and if possible with no breeze on them unless they are hotter than ambient room temperature. It’s amazing how much cooler things are near the floor than at waist level. A mini split would be ideal but not practical for every location.
 
That's pretty warm, yep. I had a fan blowing on my inverters this spring before I got the mini split installed and it helped a LOT. The batteries weren't heating up then so that part didn't matter. The heat index is supposed to be pushing 120 here for the next several days. I try to stay out of the worst of it but sometimes things happen and you just gotta suck it up.
Projected to be 111 degrees here this weekend(always hotter in my neighborhood)
Hot air sucks;
IMG_0815.jpeg
 
I don’t know if it cools down there at night. I have fans that blow air over the batteries from 2AM to 10AM when it’s cool but not when the air gets hot. Cooling them down gives them just that much more time to heat up. If you have rack batteries I don’t know. Best of course is climate control. The flat spot in the middle is when I took everything off line and to grid so I could spend quality time balancing the new baby.View attachment 157363
I do the same at night and with a small 3 watt fan and good insulation for the batt compartment I can get all the batts cooled down to about 60 / 65 F by morn… after about 9-10 am I’m running with no fan on batts all day Untill dark then I repeat…they slowly rise to about 75 to 82 by end of the afternoon then start cooling again after dark. Get em cool at night and they pretty much coast all day staying coolish Even when working pretty good.

I am assuming a high of about 80F and low of about 60 ambient we had this week,and that’s pretty warm for here… There is no A/C where the system is located ..

With A small 3 watt fan blowing up thru the SCC heat sinks (Vic 150/100) I can keep it about 90F max during midday heat when running strong..( about 5 to 10F above ambient) .it’s happy at 90F

But, the multiplus is a challenge without cool weather or A/C ..that rascal wants to get warm..I mounted a seperate high speed fan (25 watts) 2 days ago running 6 -7 hours a day and can keep it down to about 87to 92F at 75% output…it was running 105 to 115F before fan installation.
It is much happier now with a stout breeze aimed in the right areas.
The fans definitely help the whole system run cooler and work better…much better..
this is my first summer with the system running… it take a bit of tweaking to find the best way to manage its health and operation..but it’s coming right along .
J.
 
Having LiFePO4 sit at high states of charge isn't really the problem. Keeping them at a high voltage is. As long as your float setting is turned off or set at 3.375V per cell or something - which allows the cell to settle - you should be fine. I'm at 100% on a daily basis in summer, and don't drop below 90% most days.
 
One thing to remember when having concerns about elevated SoC and LFP... temperature plays a huge role:


I have a 40°C alarm set for my batteries - It's triggering daily now. I only charge the NMC to 75% anyway, but I've lowered it to about 65% now since DoD while we're away is only about 9%.
Have you considered liquid cooling? At those temperatures you would benefit from cooling the batteries.
 
Finally had a chance to really look at the study the sunshine_eggo posted. Eye opening. Seems to be a factor of high state of charge and high temperature…….I’m screwed. ?
 
Have you considered liquid cooling? At those temperatures you would benefit from cooling the batteries.

Not even for a nanosecond. Liquid cooling my battery, or most batteries for that matter, is beyond impractical.

Insulation and ventilation of the shipping container is a far more practical option with benefits beyond the battery temp.

These are high end Panasonic PHEV cells. They see higher temperatures in the car, and they're air cooled in that application.
 
Have you considered liquid cooling? At those temperatures you would benefit from cooling the batteries.
Cool air across the top seems to do well when it’s there. My biggest surprise was the difference in temperature in a room in regards to elevation. The top of the lower battery is 11” off the floor and the top of the two others are 27” off the floor. The lower battery has no powered airflow, just natural convection. The other two have a timed fan that blows over them. This is the a typical hottest summer battery peak temperature (fan now off). Blue is the bottom convection, yellow is upper closest to fan and green is down stream. The two upper batteries would be way hotter if not for the morning cool downs. I’m working on an enclosure with fan for the bottom unit and control but it hardly made an improvement in the first test. I would like to close it up for the point of safety(vermin accidents). IMG_0819.jpegIMG_0818.jpeg
IMG_0817.jpeg
 
Cool air across the top seems to do well when it’s there. My biggest surprise was the difference in temperature in a room in regards to elevation. The top of the lower battery is 11” off the floor and the top of the two others are 27” off the floor. The lower battery has no powered airflow, just natural convection. The other two have a timed fan that blows over them. This is the a typical hottest summer battery peak temperature (fan now off). Blue is the bottom convection, yellow is upper closest to fan and green is down stream. The two upper batteries would be way hotter if not for the morning cool downs. I’m working on an enclosure with fan for the bottom unit and control but it hardly made an improvement in the first test. I would like to close it up for the point of safety(vermin accidents). View attachment 157421View attachment 157423
View attachment 157425
After 2 month of experimenting with different techniques with fans/ No fans / some fans …on the batts it seems the best thing i have found is to get them as cool as possible all night using a fan .then kill the fan early…they will have momentum to stay cool,for a while …..leave the fan off Untill the battery temps start to exceed ambient temps ( if it happens) late in the day Then the turn the fans back on high and just roll with what ya get from ambient temp.…as it gets later in the day it will slowly cool and start bringing the bat temp down with it..
there a lot of mass and weight in a whole bank…it slower to react compared to the other gear…
2 inches of insulation on my batt box has been the salvation of keeping them cool all day compared to ambient temp…if I had known when building it Inwould have used more foam board.

I have no idea how I would do that if they were open to free air …other than A/C.
I also have no idea what the guys who live in a naturally hot place , 90 - 100 + F do .

Im sure there’s an answer ,but I don’t know what it is…
J.
 
After 2 month of experimenting with different techniques with fans/ No fans / some fans …on the batts it seems the best thing i have found is to get them as cool as possible all night using a fan .then kill the fan early…they will have momentum to stay cool,for a while …..leave the fan off Untill the battery temps start to exceed ambient temps ( if it happens) late in the day Then the turn the fans back on high and just roll with what ya get from ambient temp.…as it gets later in the day it will slowly cool and start bringing the bat temp down with it..
there a lot of mass and weight in a whole bank…it slower to react compared to the other gear…
2 inches of insulation on my batt box has been the salvation of keeping them cool all day compared to ambient temp…if I had known when building it Inwould have used more foam board.

I have no idea how I would do that if they were open to free air …other than A/C.
I also have no idea what the guys who live in a naturally hot place , 90 - 100 + F do .

Im sure there’s an answer ,but I don’t know what it is…
J.
Sound like we’re running down the same path lol. I found dual sensor differential thermostatic control so the fan will blow any time the battery is warmer than the air. But figuring out how it works has been interesting. The instructions are in Chinese so I searched and found an English version translation. My impression is that even the Chinese version must be a mess ?. The control’s voltage was 220 AC but it actually had a drop down transformer and rectifier that landed on 12VDC and it was a cakewalk pop those two components out so I could feed it my 12VDC. But now I’m lost in translation, dead bug, winging it. I may just go with the 12V timer I have and 12V fans for K.I.S.S.
 
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