diy solar

diy solar

Where are the mini splits????

I like the idea of the "not having to pull a vacuum line set" I've done some research and have not found any other brand other than the MR Cool 4th gen and the EG4 brand. But if there would be a problem I'd probably have better result with service with Mr Cool. I'd been using a Pioneer now for 5 yrs, been great, looking for another but with the quick connect lines.
I picked up this

BACOENG Complete AC Repair Tool Kit for Mini Split/HVAC/AUTO with Tool Bag - Includes 3.6CFM Vacuum Pump, 800PSI Manifold Gauge Kit​

for $109 bucks with coupon off of Amazon. Will says they sell them at Harbor Freight but the ones around me only have car refrigerate types

Anyway. It couldn’t be simpler to do the job. It’s very intimidating. But after you do it your like: Well that was easy!
it really is a piece of cake. Fear of the unknown stops people.
 
Great Arguments on both sides of this.... I was really intrigued by the Direct PV input for these, and They for sure have very useful situations. Personally In the end, I could not justify the additional cost of the unit over a traditional one. I already own the Pump and Flare tool, as well as a tank of 410a, so I'm ahead of the game in that aspect, And actually put those tools to work at a neighbors house for the 1st time in 8 years (He put a mini in a newly enclosed back porch).
 
At this minute of comment, My Pioneer 24k is using about 1200w to heat house set to 80 degree F. It seems to use more power than it did when it was new 5 yrs ago. showing too be 63 deg F out side right now. I use to use it with grid but sense it seems to cost more, I only use it with solar/inverter/batt power. I plan to buy another Pioneer but this time it will be a Hyperformance for colder efficiency.
 
Keep in mind for US, the really DIY DIY crowd, these Solar units do sort of compete with Pioneer and so on - but for the general population the Solar hybrids may now compete more closely with Mr Cool DIY (linesets) ??
 
Keep in mind for US, the really DIY DIY crowd, these Solar units do sort of compete with Pioneer and so on - but for the general population the Solar hybrids may now compete more closely with Mr Cool DIY (linesets) ??
I agree with that. I looked into Mr. Cool and like them even more. Done research to find there main plant is in KY. Id still like to buy one of there gen 4 model with the quick coupler install and haven't yet completely decided yet. But I could save some money buying the pioneer model and my present one has done me well. I even looked into Menards where I could special order one (Mr Cool) and receive an 11% discount to buy other stuff from them which is the only way I've found online to get a break in pricing. Yes the solar diy set like SS sells now are attractive how ever I just can't figure the high seer rating they are showing. No one else shows that high of a rating. for me I don't see it to be a true number. But that just my thought on that, not to start any issue with any one.
 
I agree with that. I looked into Mr. Cool and like them even more. Done research to find there main plant is in KY. Id still like to buy one of there gen 4 model with the quick coupler install and haven't yet completely decided yet. But I could save some money buying the pioneer model and my present one has done me well. I even looked into Menards where I could special order one (Mr Cool) and receive an 11% discount to buy other stuff from them which is the only way I've found online to get a break in pricing. Yes the solar diy set like SS sells now are attractive how ever I just can't figure the high seer rating they are showing. No one else shows that high of a rating. for me I don't see it to be a true number. But that just my thought on that, not to start any issue with any one.
You should be able to match the equipment to thw ahri lookup table to verify SEER/SEER2 rating.
 
The AHRI certs are on SS's website now too.

Hey @Supervstech. Can you quantify an average lifetime for a mini split?? Or too many variables (brand, maintenance, etc). Curious since on my 5-10yr plan maybe these Solar units are dead by then = repurpose arrays for a system..

Edit: 10yrs I mean. 5 yrs hmmm not so good ?
 
Many of the ones I've installed are still going 10 years later.
Some get noisy and customers have replaced them still running due to lack of maintenance...
But yeah, lifespan is a case by case thing on a lot of variables.
 
At this minute of comment, My Pioneer 24k is using about 1200w to heat house set to 80 degree F. It seems to use more power than it did when it was new 5 yrs ago. showing too be 63 deg F out side right now. I use to use it with grid but sense it seems to cost more, I only use it with solar/inverter/batt power. I plan to buy another Pioneer but this time it will be a Hyperformance for colder efficiency.
When you tell it to do 80 degrees it’s gonna go full tilt to try and get there in a reasonable time.
Try just setting it to 70 degrees first and see if that cuts down on consumption
 
The AHRI certs are on SS's website now too.

Hey @Supervstech. Can you quantify an average lifetime for a mini split?? Or too many variables (brand, maintenance, etc). Curious since on my 5-10yr plan maybe these Solar units are dead by then = repurpose arrays for a system..

Edit: 10yrs I mean. 5 yrs hmmm not so good ?
In 10 years it maybe obsolete anyway. The way things have been changing so fast with so much more effort from inventors trying to combat climate change.
 
I am very impressed by the Senville Aura 24k, which shares the same parts with many other brands. I've been waiting for months to test the heating capability and it's amazing. My main level (with loft) is 1200 sqft and was heated by 6 1800 watt 72" baseboard heaters. These are now just emergency backup. The mini split is having no trouble maintaining (have it set at 60 degrees as a test while we're not there). I think no matter what brand you get, direct solar enabled or not, it will meet expectations.
Screenshot 2023-10-09 at 11.45.57 AM.png
 
Don't want to beat a dead horse but for the extra money you pay for the per-charged lines may not be worth the little extra work.
If you are mechanically inclined enough to cut a hole thru your house, run wiring. wire up Units, shuts offs and Breaker boxes...
Your more than capable of doing the Vacuum. That's really the easy part.
And you really cant mess it up.

- Smear a drop of Nylok Blue to the Bullet end of the Linesets and twist together with 2 adjustable wrenches until you cant feel any give.

- Screw the Hoses of your new Gauge set finger tight, then use a pair of Pliers to give it just a hair more umph. And attach to Unit.

- Open the Blue Valve on the Gauge and turn on the Pump. It will immediately go down to the lowest Gauge reading.

- After 10 minutes Close the Blue Valve and shut off the Pump. Check the Gauge after 10 minutes. If it didn't move your good.

- Find the Units allen screw and open till its above Zero on the Gauge. Like 9 oclock. Then close the Screw.

- Takeoff your Gauge hose, then open up the Units Allen screws all the way... your done.

If you can't hold pressure (which I think is rare) just re-tighten all the connections more before the final step of opening the Allen screws to release the refrigerant. Its intimidating, but in the end so easy. Then you can add A/C Tech to your Resume.
 
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Don't want to beat a dead horse but for the extra money you pay for the per-charged lines may not be worth the little extra work.
If you are mechanically inclined enough to cut a hole thru your house, run wiring. wire up Units, shuts offs and Breaker boxes...
Your more than capable of doing the Vacuum. That's really the easy part.
And you really cant mess it up.

- Smear a drop of Nylok Blue to the Bullet end of the Linesets and twist together with 2 adjustable wrenches until you cant feel any give.

- Screw the Hoses of your new Gauge set finger tight, then use a pair of Pliers to give it just a hair more umph. And attach to Unit.

- Open the Blue Valve on the Gauge and turn on the Pump. It will immediately go down to the lowest Gauge reading.

- After 10 minutes Close the Blue Valve and shut off the Pump. Check the Gauge after 10 minutes. If it didn't move your good.

- Find the Units allen screw and open till its above Zero on the Gauge. Like 9 oclock. Then close the Screw.

- Takeoff your Gauge hose, then open up the Units Allen screws all the way... your done.

If you can't hold pressure (which I think is rare) just re-tighten all the connections more before the final step of opening the Allen screws to release the refrigerant. It intimidating, but in the end so easy. Then you can add A/C Tech to your Resume.
For only a small bit more cost, buy a nitrogen tank local and cheap regulator off of Amazon. This will allow you to check for pressurized leaks before you pull a vacuum. I took the extra step and bought a micron gauge for the vacuum.
 

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When you tell it to do 80 degrees it’s gonna go full tilt to try and get there in a reasonable time.
Try just setting it to 70 degrees first and see if that cuts down on consumption
Sure it used less consumption at 70, on grid but I'm usually hot blooded and like it at 80. So is why I use it off grid as I have enough to power it as well as keeping enough battery to get me through the night. When it was new, it did seem to cost less when running it on grid in relation to my electric bill. I just love keeping the grid button off all the time.
 
Sure it used less consumption at 70, on grid but I'm usually hot blooded and like it at 80. So is why I use it off grid as I have enough to power it as well as keeping enough battery to get me through the night. When it was new, it did seem to cost less when running it on grid in relation to my electric bill. I just love keeping the grid button off all the time.
Maybe check that the grills and filters are all clean. Also the fan barrel in the head unit.

I used to use windex and a hose on my central then bought this. Like night and day. Fins went from grey to bright silver again.

X:Chemistry 46822 Foaming Coil Cleaner - 18 oz.​

 
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