Ground rod?

evad said:

You can add a second rod in parallel. Some localities require two.

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I was watching a video of a guy installing a breaker panel & he referenced having 2.

smoothJoey said:

If you are not going to code is their something metallic in the ground already that you can bond to.
Like a well casing or similar?

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Don't have anything like that. I'm sure I'll be fine after a few more whack sessions.

Guda said:

Don't have anything like that. I'm sure I'll be fine after a few more whack sessions.

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You might consider this method to meet the grounding requirement. It is what what used in the service to my shop:
Hoping this helps,
Wiley

I saw a video by Wild Wonderful Off Grid on YT where the owner (a licensed electrician in the US) laid two ground rods horizontally in a trench. Can't put my finger on it right offhand but he mentioned that it complied with NEC requirements.

And from my limited experience, it seems like local/regional code jurisdictions are simply adopting national codes in order to keep things simpler and more consistent. Now I'm sure this isn't the case everywhere but seems like complying with a national code is probably gonna work for most situations.

tictag said:

This is definitely the usual case here in the UK (i.e. TN-S-C) but this house was whatever 'no utility earth' system is, hence the earth rod. After the new earth rod was fitted, the tester showed 'green' (I forget the value).

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Came across this youtube clip which people may find useful in understanding the earthing systems in use in the UK

smoothJoey said:

If you are not going to code is their something metallic in the ground already that you can bond to.
Like a well casing or similar?
Anybody know of a reason not to do that?

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Joey, I built my home and when I was inspected my the state electrical inspector he demanded that I change the ground wire from ending at the well casing (after connecting to the ground rod) to a situation where the last item connected was the ground rod. So the ground wire went: panel to well casing to ground rod rather than panel to ground rod to casing. I inquired why as I would think a steel well casing with over a hundred and fifty foot in the ground and filled fifty foot with water was the real ground. He said it was code.

The only other thing he corrected was I didn't have a explosion proof gas seal where the wires to my septic pump entered the pump tank. The only one I could find locally was made of metal and fortunately I had him inspect it before I filled it with the cement mixture as he then said it needed to be grounded (the fitting) even though it was the only metal in the conduit.

Code: sometimes it's easier to comply than fight. The inspector was the person who suggested I use a "Ufer ground" for my shop building.

Steve_S said:

I have driven in many grounding rods over my lifetime, rarely has it been that hard to do, just be patient and watch out for your legs when swinging the sledge. One miss can be REALLY painful.

Alternately, you CAN use a Grounding Plate such as this below:
These can be installed 30 inches below surface and 24" from the building itself. These provide the same amount of "contact surface" as a 6' long rod but are more suitable in rocky soils and where a rod cannot be necessarily installed. I used these on my current home as I have rocky soils and it was far more practical & easier to do.
!*! Always check with your local Electrical Code requirements, they will ALL address proper grounding techniques for your region and such things should always be done to comply with codes.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/microelectric-galv-ground-plate-c-w-connector/1001201529

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THIS is what I need!
We are in Central Wisconsin and I have a hard time getting down 2 ft. let alone 8 ft.

Thanks for posting this!

HARG Hunter said:

THIS is what I need!
We are in Central Wisconsin and I have a hard time getting down 2 ft. let alone 8 ft.

Thanks for posting this!

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After further review, this must not be common in the US.
I can't find any grounding plates available in most supply stores.

HARG Hunter said:

After further review, this must not be common in the US.
I can't find any grounding plates available in most supply stores.

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I coulda swore I saw one at Home depot. But I just looked & nada

But, You buy a sheet of copper, a lug, nut, bolt & you have one. Might look up some math stuff to figure the size.

Guda said:

I coulda swore I saw one at Home depot. But I just looked & nada

But, You buy a sheet of copper, a lug, nut, bolt & you have one. Might look up some math stuff to figure the size.

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It's available at Home Depot - Canada, but I can't find it in any main store in the US.
I will definitely do my homework and see what I can figure out.
Seems like we have boulders in the dirt every other foot.

HARG Hunter said:

It's available at Home Depot - Canada, but I can't find it in any main store in the US.
I will definitely do my homework and see what I can figure out.
Seems like we have boulders in the dirt every other foot.

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I had to split my rod into 2. Not sure if thats valid or not but I fireguard its better than nothing. I am also going to add another ground for the other side of my panel once i get the 2nd inverter. I don't think you can have too much ground

I read the code. It says if you hit rocks try 45 degrees. If you hit rocks at 45 degrees, you can dig a trench 40 inches deep and lay it horizontal.

In my area, by code, you can connect to any water pipe or put a copper 5/8 inch rod into the ground 8 feet down. Interesting about lying a rod 40 inches down and horizontal. In theory, it should work.